Mechanic can't get a connection to the driver's side console..huh??

You run into a lot of problems with the stangs not because they're bad cars, they're not, on the contrary they're reliable as hell, the problem is there's a whole lot a people out there screwing around with the cars that don't know what the heck they're doing! As far as the surging problem at higher rpm, the last time I had one of those it was a bad MAF, as far as that shop where you have your car goes, I would get my car out of there RIGHT NOW!
p.s. I know this is probably a stupid question, but you never know, when you went to 24# injectors you did get a MAF calibrated for 24's?
 
a few things:
all the fuel injected mustangs up to 96 used the same ford 1a data link connector under the hood. your "mechanic" can get codes and all the koeo or koer tests as well as data from this diag port.
as far as your spaghetti wiring mess, rip all that sh-t out immediately.
as for your bucking i would scan the throttle position sensor to see if its working properly and i would verify ignition timing and fuel pressure are within specs.
 
"when you went to 24# injectors you did get a MAF calibrated for 24's?"

Yes. But thanks for asking, never hurts.

"shop where you have your car goes, I would get my car out of there RIGHT NOW!"

Sigh...I will see what he has by end of day.


"as for your bucking i would scan the throttle position sensor to see if its working properly and i would verify ignition timing and fuel pressure are within specs."

Ok. Thanks.
 
jorge.pena said:
You run into a lot of problems with the stangs not because they're bad cars, they're not, on the contrary they're reliable as hell, the problem is there's a whole lot a people out there screwing around with the cars that don't know what the heck they're doing!

True. But, one problem all Fords have is electrical issues. Sensors that don't completely fail, but return weird values. MAFs that appear to be working, but return a different value than it should (ex: 0.16v instead of 0.12v) which throws off the a/f mixture. The sensor is reporting a value within its proper range, so the computer thinks the sensor is working fine. I just solved (well, my mechanic did) a weird issue with the CCRM on mine - an electrical relay would trip off at random, which simply shut the engine and the computer off. Try to restart the car, and it would start up like nothing happened. It was a rare and random issue for YEARS until recently, where it was happening often enough so my mechanic could reproduce it. It's that kind of stuff that makes people give up on Fords and say they're not reliable.

I still say they're worth it. Learn their quirks and know how to test for 'em, and they become MUCH more reliable. But I don't have to convince anyone here. :)
 
about the bucking...

I would almost bet its the maf...remember the "cal'd" MAFs still FOOL the eec as to how much air is entering the engine. I had a C&L 73mm when I first got my 24#ers...not the best MAF for our cars, and had bucking up too 2500 rpm. The Pro-M ones are the best at FOOLING the eec but even then tuning the MAF transfer would be the best thing to do to get things setup for YOUR combo.

Do you have the EGR in any way dissabled? I had to cap my EGR tube one time since it broke (dur. a head swap, buddy that did it felt bad as he didnt know how big of PITA it was to re-align). The car would drive funky at off hwy cruise and above 2500 rpm. I fixed that and it did wonders.

When I got a tweecer and swapped back to the stock MAF (until I get a LMAF) I have had 0 bucking anywear.

as far as the shop....

get your car and RUN,

Ok say he does find the test port and get the codes....DO you realy trust him at this point to get, install, and install properly the correct part??? I mean if this is the FIRST 94-95 this MUSTANG shop has worked on...were have they been for the last 11-12yrs and were in the hell are their shop manuals if it has been so long since they have worked on one? Also my father-in-law own's a snap-on franchise...yes SOME scanners are 7k+...but not the ones that can read trouble codes from a OBDI car.

I would just pick it up and leave man, if they give you some crap about paying I would deff. throw the fact they dont even know how to find the test port, and not check the manual after getting that kind of reading out of what they thought was the test port and I simply would not pay for any work were that is the case. That is totaly un-acceptable from ANY shop that expects to get paying customers.