Mercon V or Mobile 1 synthetic?

Blev

New Member
Aug 17, 2003
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So. Cal. V-Town
I have beer reading, re-reading and reading all the info on the Jerry mod and THINK I might do it this weekend. However, I'm confused on what AT fluid to use. One thing says to use Mercon V while another says to use Mobile 1. Can I can an educated answer as well as some good advice for the mod. I already saw the part about a doing a small video to record the bolt placement of the pan.

Thanks guys...
 
I would use :spot: MerconV to be safe. Besides it is full synthetic anyway. I bought mine at Advance Auto, Texaco Havoline for about 3.50 a quart.

You are making a great decison on the J-Mod. It is the best bang for the buck the buck mod you can do for our Auto's. Being that our cars are similar yours with 10 more ponies though, i think my trans setup would work good for you. Apparently you have looked at the site. I ran a thread about what is the best tune and got an answer from a guy with the same year of Stang. I went with the Blue upper spring and No lower spring 1-2. 3-4 No springs. I used the mild drill setup. WOT it is like a power shift netting you 12ft of rubber on 1-2 shifts and 3-4 a good solid shift. The best thing is that under 2500rpm and driving civil passengers would not notice a thing. I have put 20k on it use it for my outside sales car driving up to a 100 miles a day with no problems and a constant smile. It is said to be worth 2 tenths to 60 and the 1/4. I believe it! I have always been a 5spd guy but this is pretty cool. ( Now if I could get enough jack for a converter?)

One thing that i would make sure is that you check to see if you have the old Aluminum or the new steel Accumulator Pistons. You will need to remove them anway to change the springs out. I do not think they change these till 99? Change them if you have the aluminum. I had only 35k on the clock and was already showing galling on the cylinders. If you have not read this part do it. They tell you how to fix this. This was a not recalled but probably should have been.

It is a dirty job but you will be cleaning up your trans (new fluid, filter) and extending its life (pistons, less heat by quicker shifts). give yourself a whole afternoon. A good FYI - Video segments taking it apart to make sure you put it back right. i had never done this before and did not want screw up so i did this. When you get to the valve body there is like 22 bolts that are shorter than the others. This is where the video comes in handy so you can review which holes they go back into. make sure to keep everthing clean.
 
I was reading part of the write up and noticed that the springs and mild drill are for up to 300hp. Well, I'm ordering some stage 2 Patriot heads in a few months along with cams, PI intake 75mm TB and Acufab plenum. A good solid tune from Bottle Blown Racing I should be right around 300 (crossing fingers). Depending on money and a few other factors I may blow some giggles. That will put me well over 300 and I don't think that I can do the mild mod. So I'm doing a little more research before I tackle the job. I'm so up in the air on mods right now it's hard to make a smart decision on the level of the Jerry mod. I don't want neck snapping shifts all the time, but I know I want them when every now and then. So I don't know what to do.

HELP!!!!
 
bdcardinal said:
i think the Mobil 1 synthetic ATF meets and/or exceeds the specifications for Mercon V. you can use regular mercon in the 4r70w, however ford recommends mercon V because it has anti-shudder characteristics.
This is correct. I would use Mobil 1
synthetic ATF in your trannsmission if I were you Blev because it
lasts longer inbetween trannsmission fluid flush/refills.Also in my
opnion it protects your tranny better than standard Mercon or
Mercon V. I only use Mobil 1 synthetic ATF in my T-45 when it's
time for a trannsmission flush/refill.Also it seemed to make my
shifts eazyer!