MIL Eliminators on O/R X-Pipe?

HoustonGT

Gilded Gelding
Apr 6, 2003
1,418
0
0
Houston
Hey guys. Im installing my Bassani o/r x-pipe on Friday and still haven't ordered MIL Elim.. The cheapest ones i found were like 40 bucks and i just can't afford that right now. I am actually thinking about installing the Bassani and just waiting about a week or 2 to purchase the MIL Eliminators and then install them. The question is can i install them later without having to remove the x-pipe again and will i have any trouble running without them except for that stupid "Check Engine" light? The light doesnt bother me for a week or 2, just wana know if itll be a pain to install later. Thanks
 
I installed mine without the mil eliminators and drove it for about 2-3 weeks everything was fine , ,, just had the ses light on and the car was running a little rich but all is good now,. Yes you can put them on later. It is a 10min job just unple the o2 sensors plug the mil's in and plug the o2 back into the mil.. easy. You also will have to unplug your battery for a quick sec. or the ses light will stay on ,,
-fred
 
There has been some bad information given out above.

Rear o2 sensors are merely cat monitors, and play no role in engine control.

Read carefully here: Your car will run exactly the same with or without MIL Eliminators. Their only function is to prevent the P0420 and P0430 low-cat efficiency DTC's from being triggered when you remove your cats.

Again, rear o2 sensors play no role in engine control. No change in A/F ratio, no pulled timing, nothing.

For the original poster of this thread, MIL Eliminators run $29.95 shipped (us) for the splice-ins, and $60 for the plug and play units (Dallas Mustang). Your choice.

I feel I have a little bit of experience on this subject since we've troubleshooted DTC's for the past 4 years for this very topic...

Keep the rubber side down, fellas.
 
HuskerCobra96 said:
There has been some bad information given out above.

Rear o2 sensors are merely cat monitors, and play no role in engine control.

Read carefully here: Your car will run exactly the same with or without MIL Eliminators. Their only function is to prevent the P0420 and P0430 low-cat efficiency DTC's from being triggered when you remove your cats.

Again, rear o2 sensors play no role in engine control. No change in A/F ratio, no pulled timing, nothing.

For the original poster of this thread, MIL Eliminators run $29.95 shipped (us) for the splice-ins, and $60 for the plug and play units (Dallas Mustang). Your choice.

I feel I have a little bit of experience on this subject since we've troubleshooted DTC's for the past 4 years for this very topic...

Keep the rubber side down, fellas.

I was always under the impression that whenever the SES light is on, your car automatically goes into "limp mode", so that whatever the problem is, the car will be less likely to be able to damage itself further. I dunno, just what I heard from the owner of a Mustang performance shop. That, and when I had a malfunctioning MIL eliminator, my car burned an assload of gas, idled at about 2k, and was slow as hell and ran like complete garbage. Maybe it was in my head. :shrug: Correct me if I'm wrong, but hopefully someone else can back me up.
 
HuskerCobra96 said:
There has been some bad information given out above.

Rear o2 sensors are merely cat monitors, and play no role in engine control.

Read carefully here: Your car will run exactly the same with or without MIL Eliminators. Their only function is to prevent the P0420 and P0430 low-cat efficiency DTC's from being triggered when you remove your cats.

Again, rear o2 sensors play no role in engine control. No change in A/F ratio, no pulled timing, nothing.

For the original poster of this thread, MIL Eliminators run $29.95 shipped (us) for the splice-ins, and $60 for the plug and play units (Dallas Mustang). Your choice.

I feel I have a little bit of experience on this subject since we've troubleshooted DTC's for the past 4 years for this very topic...

Keep the rubber side down, fellas.

HuskerCobra96 what do you mean by Keep the rubber side down??????
 
snowb07 said:
I installed mine without the mil eliminators and drove it for about 2-3 weeks everything was fine , ,, just had the ses light on and the car was running a little rich but all is good now,. Yes you can put them on later. It is a 10min job just unple the o2 sensors plug the mil's in and plug the o2 back into the mil.. easy. You also will have to unplug your battery for a quick sec. or the ses light will stay on ,,
-fred


When I installed my o/r X,, we unplugged my battery before even starting. We installed the MIL's in between those clamps just like you are supposed to, screwd back in the o2 sensors, connected the battery, and started the car. About 50 miles and a couple starts later, my check engine light came on. The car also stuttered a little more than usual the last time I started it, I don't know if that is related or not....but what should I do? My car has been at the tranny shop for 5 days now, I pick it up today. If it hasn't been magically fixed, what should I do?

These are the expensive plug in "dallas" MIL eliminators, btw.
 
HuskerCobra96 said:
There has been some bad information given out above.

Rear o2 sensors are merely cat monitors, and play no role in engine control.

Read carefully here: Your car will run exactly the same with or without MIL Eliminators. Their only function is to prevent the P0420 and P0430 low-cat efficiency DTC's from being triggered when you remove your cats.

Again, rear o2 sensors play no role in engine control. No change in A/F ratio, no pulled timing, nothing.

For the original poster of this thread, MIL Eliminators run $29.95 shipped (us) for the splice-ins, and $60 for the plug and play units (Dallas Mustang). Your choice.

I feel I have a little bit of experience on this subject since we've troubleshooted DTC's for the past 4 years for this very topic...

Keep the rubber side down, fellas.
Hes telling the 100% truth your car doesnt run any different with that light on and actually if your gonna put the mils in in 2 weeks sometimes it takes that long for the light to come on it doesnt always come on immediately. If you are running rich or lean its because of the h or x pipe not because the check engine light is on.
 
Craig Mack said:
When I installed my o/r X,, we unplugged my battery before even starting. We installed the MIL's in between those clamps just like you are supposed to, screwd back in the o2 sensors, connected the battery, and started the car. About 50 miles and a couple starts later, my check engine light came on. The car also stuttered a little more than usual the last time I started it, I don't know if that is related or not....but what should I do? My car has been at the tranny shop for 5 days now, I pick it up today. If it hasn't been magically fixed, what should I do?

These are the expensive plug in "dallas" MIL eliminators, btw.


Get your codes read b/c it might be your front o2 sensors