MIL Eliminators on O/R X-Pipe?

Plug in or splice in, it doesnt really matter. ALL Mil Eliminators use the same basic RC Low Pass filter circuit. They generally ALL do the same thing. The thing Dan does very well is follow up with his customers when they have problems.

With the plugins, they're resold by other people and the majority of people selling and reselling them dont have a clue how to troubleshoot them or even what specific issue could be wrong with them. Its easier to just exchange them.

The plain fact is that I've got bunches of Mil's that were returned and I put them on my car and they work just fine (I designed the plugin Mils for Dallas Mustang and several other companies have copied them. And Dallas Mustang was the first to market this product). I have even tweeked the DMP design slightly to address an issue fundamental to all the Mils out there, that is voltage division which occurs due to interaction in the Mil with the input impedence of the EEC. This just gives the test in the computer a little more margin to pass the high voltage level check, thats all.

Dan will probably even agree with this. Most problems with CEL's after Mil Elim install are due to improper exhaust installation with exhausts leaks being number one in my opinion.

I dont know how many times I've read how Brand X is better than Brand Y on these things. The one thing Dan Smith does really well is understand his product, understand how the product works in the car, and help his customers work thru any install issues. Not everyone building or selling Mil Eliminators has this knowledge. Within the last two months I worked on two cars with plug in Mil Eliminators who had CEL's. In both cases they'd tried new Mil Eliminators with no success. One car even had a competing brand of plugin Mil Eliminator to start with. In the end, they were both resolved with O2 sensor swaps, one had a bad front one causing tuning issues, the other had a rear one bad causing a failed rear O2 sensor test.

So when people post how one brand is better or worse than the other, thats really not the case. They're all electronically pretty much the same. The knowledge you get in the support from one brand to another is really the differentiating factor on these things. And Dan Smith does a great job in that regard. Someone made a comment about they'd be rich if they had a nickel/dime for everytime they read about plug in Mil Eliminator problems. Well, since they're actually an EXTREMELY low percentage of the number actually shipped (and they test fine most of the time anyway on return ) I guess SOMEONE is getting rich anyway, wish it was me but its not... :(

I imagine several will post this is total blasphemy and I dont know what I'm talking about, but I can assure you its totally true. After all, to the best of my knowlege my design for Dallas Mustang was the first of these to ever be marketed for late Model Mustangs. And it was done via understanding what tests were going on in the EEC, what signal levels were being looked for and how to make the signal look like what the computer was expecting when the cat was there.

Dan if you read anything in here you disagree please post back. Later, Willie
 
How can you tell theres an exhaust leak? Everything is setup fine on my car as far as I know.

My o2 sensors are NOT bad. They were perfectly fine up until the x-pipe+mil swap.

So if it's not an exhaust leak, it's not a bad o2 sensor, what could it be? They are setup JUST the way they are supposed to, in between those clamps. Everything is snugly screwed in. A guy at the tranny shop reset my ECU to get rid of the CEL, but to my dismay it reappeared about 15 miles down the road.
 
Im with you craig mack, I have no idea what the root of the problem is anymore. I DO know i have idling/driveablility problems since ive installed the Xpipe. My only problem now is the car is in storage untill the spring so i wont know whats gonna fix it untill then.
 
I have two more new questions...???

"Rear/front O2 sensor(s) not properly torqued to spec. in exhaust pipe."

- What is the proper torquing then, when its tight its tight?

- Lets just say i didnt reset my ecu upon the initial install because i didnt have the MIL's then. But when i installed them (2 weeks later)i reset the computer before i started it up. so could my problem have originated because i did not reset initially with the pipe only???
 
Interesting that this thread should show up when i apparently am having problems with my splice in mils. I installed my prochamber about 8 months ago and installed the mils at the same time. I just got a check engine light on last night when i was driving back in town from houston. Should i try unhooking the battery for 10 mins. to reset the computer before putting the car on ramps and fiddling with the wiring?

kirkyg
 
kirkyg said:
... I just got a check engine light on last night when i was driving back in town from houston...

...Should i try unhooking the battery for 10 mins. to reset the computer before putting the car on ramps and fiddling with the wiring?...


You *could* do that. Would you want to though? I probably wouldn't. It depends on how much time you want to waste IMHO. A better way to go about this is to scan the car for trouble codes in order to find out why the light is on and then go from there...know what I mean?

The problem may go away if you reset the PCM/unhook the battery, or it might just come back in a few days after several more drive cycles...
 
[QUOTE='96&'01Stang]Definately pull the codes first. I doubt that it is the mils...I mean they have worked for 8 months[/QUOTE]

im not going to pay someone 50 bucks to pull codes...is there a way to do it myself? Im resetting it right now. I've heard of alot of people that have mils eventually their SES light coming on and it either being a faulty MIL or sensor or an exhaust leak. If this doesn't work im going to have my prochamber bent so it wont rub on my the bottom of the car and have them check for leaks.

kirkyg
 
kirkyg said:
im not going to pay someone 50 bucks to pull codes...is there a way to do it myself? Im resetting it right now. I've heard of alot of people that have mils eventually their SES light coming on and it either being a faulty MIL or sensor or an exhaust leak. If this doesn't work im going to have my prochamber bent so it wont rub on my the bottom of the car and have them check for leaks.

kirkyg


Autozone will pull your codes for free. The people you hear about are not after 8 months. A couple of days to a week maybe but not 8 months. It might be a leak if your prochamber is scraping really bad :shrug:
 
Guys, the only option you have to after you install Mil Elims, get another CEL, and double check your work is to pull the codes. Period. There's really no other way around it. Also, Autozone will generally pull the codes for free. And when you get them pulled, be sure and write down the number(s). There are at least 5 or 6 codes for EACH O2 sensor, plus the rich and lean codes for each bank, yadda yadda... It goes on and on. Post the code numbers back in here and either Dan or myself will be glad to help.