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Progress Thread Miss Molly

  • Thread starter Thread starter miss_molly_mustang
  • Start date Start date May 26, 2017
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    1999 miss molly v6 3.8l
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miss_molly_mustang

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May 22, 2017
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Jack, AL
Sep 24, 2017
#41
  • Sep 24, 2017
  • #41
I didn't get both heads off like I wanted to because I had to come back to campus for my job that I have here. The only thing I really have left to do is remove the injectors and the 4 short bolts on the heads and they should come right off (I'm hoping). But today marks a very important day...

Mine and Molly's 1 year anniversary!

Happy I got to spend the day with her, I just wish we could've went for a joy ride. At least the end is in sight finally for this journey! After this is finished I can FINALLY start working on cosmetics and accessories.
 
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miss_molly_mustang

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May 22, 2017
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Jack, AL
Oct 22, 2017
#42
  • Oct 22, 2017
  • #42
Okay, here's a VERY much needed update. Sorry for the wait!

Anywho, so today I almost finished removing the heads off of Molly Dolly. I had a mechanic friend of mine come and help me because I am not strong at all and that power steering pump pulley had to come off lol

All that's left are the headers on each side and the head bolts. I'm going back home again this weekend and will be able to get them machined some time within the next week.

Already started saving for some new wheels for her for Christmas (maybe?) so I'll keep you all updated!

PS: sorry, no pictures this time. I forgot to take one of what state she's in now before I left home. But it was also storming outside so I'll try to make up for it on Saturday!
 
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Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
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Oct 23, 2017
#43
  • Oct 23, 2017
  • #43
miss_molly_mustang said:
Okay, here's a VERY much needed update. Sorry for the wait!

Anywho, so today I almost finished removing the heads off of Molly Dolly. I had a mechanic friend of mine come and help me because I am not strong at all and that power steering pump pulley had to come off lol

All that's left are the headers on each side and the head bolts. I'm going back home again this weekend and will be able to get them machined some time within the next week.

Already started saving for some new wheels for her for Christmas (maybe?) so I'll keep you all updated!

PS: sorry, no pictures this time. I forgot to take one of what state she's in now before I left home. But it was also storming outside so I'll try to make up for it on Saturday!
Click to expand...

Almost there!

One thing I would check before you send your heads out is the block. Those 3.8's don't usually warp a block when overheated, but I have seen it twice. Usually the heads are WAY warped if the block has any distortion to it. Would be best to check that before you pay to have the heads rebuild, slap it all together, and have the same problem pop up down the road. You can borrow a machinist's straight edge and some feeler gauges to check this.

And to clean your intake, I find a parts washer or some carb cleaner works best to get the carbon/oil buildup out of the intake. Some flexible brushes help a lot also.
 

Neuron

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Oct 23, 2017
#44
  • Oct 23, 2017
  • #44
Hoytster said:
Almost there!

One thing I would check before you send your heads out is the block. Those 3.8's don't usually warp a block when overheated, but I have seen it twice. Usually the heads are WAY warped if the block has any distortion to it. Would be best to check that before you pay to have the heads rebuild, slap it all together, and have the same problem pop up down the road. You can borrow a machinist's straight edge and some feeler gauges to check this.

And to clean your intake, I find a parts washer or some carb cleaner works best to get the carbon/oil buildup out of the intake. Some flexible brushes help a lot also.
Click to expand...

A good idea for sure, but any good shop will check that first and make the determination if it can be surfaced OK. I have had the shop tell me before that a head was out of spec and not fixable so I had to score another and drop off to him.
 
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Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
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Oct 23, 2017
#45
  • Oct 23, 2017
  • #45
Neuron said:
A good idea for sure, but any good shop will check that first and make the determination if it can be surfaced OK. I have had the shop tell me before that a head was out of spec and not fixable so I had to score another and drop off to him.
Click to expand...

I was talking about checking the block which I don't believe she is taking to a machine shop. Any machine shop worth it's salt should check the heads before a rebuild, that should be a given. That also helps determine their price since if they have to bake the head to bring it back close enough to spec to resurface, that will be an additional cost.
 
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miss_molly_mustang

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May 22, 2017
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Jack, AL
Oct 30, 2017
#46
  • Oct 30, 2017
  • #46
Hey guys, so here's Molly's current state:

I wanted so bad to get those heads off on Sunday but it was so cold and the wind was ridiculous. Here's to better luck next week..

On a serious side note, the rust that's in my water pump area, best chemical/tool to remove that?
 

Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
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#47
  • Oct 30, 2017
  • #47
miss_molly_mustang said:
On a serious side note, the rust that's in my water pump area, best chemical/tool to remove that?
Click to expand...

I usually use a baking soda paste with a scotch brite pad on cast iron to remove light surface rust like that. I'd do that right before you mount the water pump since the cast iron will start rusting once you clean it off.
 

Neuron

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Oct 31, 2017
#48
  • Oct 31, 2017
  • #48
I think that is aluminum and mostly just stained from the rusty block water, if it is scaly I would just brush it off. Once the cast iron block is not maintained properly and gone to rust you will never get rid of it completely, flush it well and keep good coolant in it and it should be fine.
 
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Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
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#49
  • Oct 31, 2017
  • #49
Neuron said:
I think that is aluminum and mostly just stained from the rusty block water, if it is scaly I would just brush it off. Once the cast iron block is not maintained properly and gone to rust you will never get rid of it completely, flush it well and keep good coolant in it and it should be fine.
Click to expand...

^what he said. I obviously didnt look at that close enough.
 

miss_molly_mustang

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May 22, 2017
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Jack, AL
Nov 12, 2017
#50
  • Nov 12, 2017
  • #50
Hey guys, so huge accomplishment this past weekend. Both heads are off now and are being taken to a machine shop some time this week to see if they are able to be machined or if I need to buy new ones.

However, I was appalled to find my cylinders in this shape:


I stuck my finger in it and it seems to just cone right off for the most part.

I'm going home again this weekend to clean all of this out (as best I can at least) while I'm waiting on heads. I had a friend of mine say that steel wool would do well in removing most of that junk.. have any if you ever had this much? If so, how did you get rid of it?

But hey, I'm now 40% done!
 
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miss_molly_mustang

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May 22, 2017
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Jack, AL
Nov 12, 2017
#51
  • Nov 12, 2017
  • #51
Also, these are my old heads. I couldn't find any cracks or warping with just my eyes, so I'm hoping I won't need to buy new ones
 
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Neuron

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Nov 13, 2017
#52
  • Nov 13, 2017
  • #52
You have a water/coolant and oil emulsion there. Usually see that with a bad head gasket or cracked head/block, weird. Moisture got in there some how.Were the spark plugs left out or a valve cover(s) open to the air? Does the engine turn over by hand OK? I would think about maybe pulling the pan to check it out, or at least pouring some cheap oil through it and see what comes out the pan drain. Surprisingly the heads don't look to bad at all, somebody changed the oil.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#53
  • Nov 13, 2017
  • #53
Ok, here is what I'd do, get a couple cans of brake clean and a roll of paper towels, some rags. Sop that mess out of the piston holes as best you can with the paper towels then spary brake cleaner and wipe it down clean, look for rust on the cylinder walls, groves or pitting, but I don't belive you'll have any problems there. Then take some clean oil and wipe down the cylinders, turning the engine over by hand to coat the walls.
This will keep rust from building while the head thing is happening.
Keep it up kid, your do'n good!
 

miss_molly_mustang

Active Member
May 22, 2017
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Jack, AL
Nov 20, 2017
#54
  • Nov 20, 2017
  • #54
Update on the heads..

My boyfriend told me about this machine shop that they use (he's a mechanic, *wink wink*) and the guy was super nice. He let me go in the shop and watch them test the heads and...

there was a small crack, a little bigger than a centimeter between the second set of valves from the head that was pulled on the driver's side - which was very surprising to me. I thought the passenger side would be the one with the problem, but oh well.

The guy does heads for people all over the country and for SUPER cheap. He quoted me about $140 for resurfacing, machining, the whole nine. He has been in the business a very long time so I showed him what Molly's current state is with the rust build up and he said to sand out the rust with 300-400 grit sandpaper and just clean it as best I can and to look for pitting - he said "I would hate for you to spend the money on these heads and then that wouldn't even fix your issue."

But he also said that if my block just is not salvageable then he would help me try to find one and help me out with the price too.

So my plans for tomorrow: de-rustify my sweet girl and see what we can do!
 
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Neuron

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Nov 20, 2017
#55
  • Nov 20, 2017
  • #55
Bummer! Will he TIG Weld the crack or find another head?
 

miss_molly_mustang

Active Member
May 22, 2017
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Jack, AL
Nov 20, 2017
#56
  • Nov 20, 2017
  • #56
Neuron said:
Bummer! Will he TIG Weld the crack or find another head?
Click to expand...

He said he can weld it out. but he wants to make sure that those heads are the proper fit for Molly. He's looking for a set of 3.8s to see if he can compare the two. I might have another update tomorrow. I'll keep you updated!
 
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miss_molly_mustang

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May 22, 2017
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Jack, AL
Nov 21, 2017
#57
  • Nov 21, 2017
  • #57
Update: I cleaned out the rust that was in the block as best as I could and I haven't seen any grooves or pitting in the cylinder walls, so that is definitely a plus
 
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miss_molly_mustang

Active Member
May 22, 2017
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Jack, AL
Nov 28, 2017
#58
  • Nov 28, 2017
  • #58
Update on the cylinder heads:
Apparently the 4.2 and 3.8 heads are interchangeable. Molly can run with 4.2s, and it actually adds between 30 and 50 extra horsepower. She's been so good of a sleeper that even I didn't know!
Anywho, my heads should be ready by Friday and then my girl should be ready for reassembly!
 
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COramprat

...I can take it. I think.
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Nov 28, 2017
#59
  • Nov 28, 2017
  • #59
I've never gone that deep into an engine. I did cams on my old 96 GT and I was a little apprehensive on that. Good work.
 

miss_molly_mustang

Active Member
May 22, 2017
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Jack, AL
Dec 4, 2017
#60
  • Dec 4, 2017
  • #60
Still waiting on my heads, but while she's torn apart, I decided to go ahead and give Molly a splash of color. I wanted purple, but the store didn't have the shade I wanted. I still think this looks pretty sweet though.



If my timing is correct, I should have my heads back by next week and then I can begin the rebuild/clean out process!
 
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