Progress Thread Monkeybutt2000's 89 vert build thread- Back on track

Monkeybutt2000 · Oct 12, 2020

90sickfox said:
I can help. Get a lower intake set with the cork gaskets. Lay it down in the valley and trim the ends with a razor to lay down. Get some right stuff gasket maker ( I like the can because it's reusable ). Put a bead under the cork gasket and a bead on top. You also need to let it sit for about an hour before you start it. I let mine sit over night.

The problem is that if the gap is too large back there the pressure will push the silicone out.

I had bad luck with leaking valley gaskets in the past and tried everything. I tried the blue rubber gaskets and they would leak too over time. I used to use yellow snot ( super high tack ) on the cork gaskets but found it would get hard over years and start leaking. The cork gaskets will kindof sweat oil after a couple years. Not enough to drip but enough to make the area damp.

The blue ones work sometimes. I put a set on a customers car with just dabs of right stuff in the corners. It lasted for a while but started leaking again in about a year.

Over the last 20yrs the way I do them now works the best for me.

Ugh,fella. I came across the Explorer graphite gasket sets with the blue rubber rail gaskets at Rockauto for $12.47ea. I ordered 2 sets. I'm determined to make these work. I'm thinking thin bead on top and bottom of gasket,let skin then torque down. Also,we run a similiar engine combo (331,turbo,etc). Do you run a pcv or what's your setup? I'm currently running 2 a/n fittings (10a/n) on the valve covers to a vented catch can. But then you research it,it's never a clear answer. There's talk of one way check valves,but no real clear way how to install.

90sickfox · Oct 12, 2020

I run the factory PCV, a sealed catch can, a -6an check valve, to the intake. I also run a mid 90s dodge truck breather ( sealed ) with 5/8 hose running to a breather tank. A -6an line also runs from that to my turbo inlet.

When not in boost system works normal ( air flows from breather tank, into valve cover and out PCV )...when in boost the access vapors are sucked through the breather tank and into the turbo behind my air filter.

If I was running MAF I'd have to seal off the breather tank and put the MAF in front of the turbo and the vapor inlet....or get Steve to tune around it.

90sickfox · Oct 12, 2020

There should be a freeze plug that will fit that hole. You'd have to measure it and tap one in.

You could run another breather hose from back there. If it's pushing a plug out from back there then you have pressure building up.

My system has been holding up so far and I don't have a breather in the drivers side valve cover. Only been to 9psi though.

Jersey Joe · Oct 12, 2020

This is what I use on my intakes, has never failed me.

Monkeybutt2000 · Oct 13, 2020

90sickfox said:
There should be a freeze plug that will fit that hole. You'd have to measure it and tap one in.

You could run another breather hose from back there. If it's pushing a plug out from back there then you have pressure building up.

My system has been holding up so far and I don't have a breather in the drivers side valve cover. Only been to 9psi though.

Good info, I had a small breather attatched to a gutted pcv before,maybe I'll go back to that.

Monkeybutt2000 · Oct 13, 2020

Jersey Joe said:
This is what I use on my intakes, has never failed me.

That's exactly what I used the last time......

Monkeybutt2000 · Oct 17, 2020

Big thanks to @a91what for helping getting my idle straightened out. Steve called me and walked me through it,super easy to do. And,the rubber intake gaskets worked like a champ,no leakage. Got some life changes coming up,so the Fox is taking a backseat for awhile. But,I have another project.....

Potomus Pete · Oct 17, 2020

New is ok , but a fox is better . Ready for that old car to go.

Mustang5L5 · Oct 17, 2020

Man I miss my new edge. Can’t beat those lines

Monkeybutt2000 · Oct 17, 2020

Mustang5L5 said:
Man I miss my new edge. Can’t beat those lines

This one has a Coyote between the rails........

Monkeybutt2000 · Oct 22, 2020

Well, here we are again,no surprise. Last time I drove the car ,I had another oil down. The dipstick tube was pushed out a few inches,and sprayed oil everywhere. So we know what that means, excessive crankcase pressure. So, had the daughter run the cranking and I read the gauge. Here's the results:
#1-165
2-165
3-170
4-165
5-75
6-170
7-125
8-170
So,little backstory. When I first got it running (and I believed it's documented in this thread) was throwing a code for a iat sensor low voltage. Well,it was a new sensor and the test said if it's under 50* which it was,could skew the test. Anyway,the car ran rich,as in burn your eyes in the garage rich. I broke the engine in as I always do,and probably didn't have 200 miles before the turbo install. But,I had intake sealing issues,and everytime I removed the upper intake, there was always traces of oil around the gasket. I always wondered if I fuel washed the rings, and it appears my fears were right. Ugh,this build has tried my nerves to the edge. It's going into storage next weekend at my buddies shop,and the engine will come back out early spring.

90sickfox · Oct 22, 2020

Damn...thats no bueno.

Monkeybutt2000 · Oct 24, 2020

90sickfox said:
Damn...thats no bueno.

Yeah...... Dart block has crossed my mind,but I just want it fixed so I can actually drive it....yeesh.

Monkeybutt2000 · Nov 28, 2020

Well, got her pulled out yesterday. Removed valve cover and loosened the rockers on #5. No leakage at the valves,but you could hear the air rushing in the drain ports. Soo, she's coming apart

90sickfox · Nov 28, 2020

That sucks. I've been eyeing a Dart block myself. Will have to wait though.

Monkeybutt2000 · Dec 12, 2020

Got some free time this morning to go down to the shop and tear down the shortblock. Initial teardown didn't reveal much,so we went ahead with piston removal and found......cracked ring lands on 5 and 7. Looking for causes here. Detonation? Low octane fuel? Insufficient ring gap? Thoughts @a91what ?

a91what · Dec 12, 2020

more pictures of the piston please, including a top view.

90sickfox · Dec 13, 2020

+1 on more pictures

CarMichael Angelo · Dec 13, 2020

Monkeybutt2000 said:
Got some free time this morning to go down to the shop and tear down the shortblock. Initial teardown didn't reveal much,so we went ahead with piston removal and found......cracked ring lands on 5 and 7. Looking for causes here. Detonation? Low octane fuel? Insufficient ring gap? Thoughts @a91what ?

I’m gonna have to say insufficient ring end gap.
The PN on the piston is from Wiseco. It’s a 4032 alloy forging..typically ran with very tight tolerances in the bore, because it doesn’t expand very much ( comparably) when it gets hot.
But the rings do...
The wrong end gap will cause them to butt when exposed to heat from too much of a power adder, and not enough timing removed. Certain alloys expand at different rates than the ring, and a “too tight” ring will basically cut the ring land right off the piston.
Thats what that looks like was starting to happen to me.

Monkeybutt2000 · Dec 13, 2020

CarMichael Angelo said:
I’m gonna have to say insufficient ring end gap.
The PN on the piston is from Wiseco. It’s a 4032 alloy forging..typically ran with very tight tolerances in the bore, because it doesn’t expand very much ( comparably) when it gets hot.
But the rings do...
The wrong end gap will cause them to butt when exposed to heat from too much of a power adder, and not enough timing removed. Certain alloys expand at different rates than the ring, and a “too tight” ring will basically cut the ring land right off the piston.
Thats what that looks like was starting to happen to me.

I believe you are correct. Probably just gonna order a whole new set.

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