I installed the front suspension last night. A tubular control arm, FFP 5300-C springs, '95 spindles, bilsteins, MM caster/camber plates. My question today, can I trim the flange on the factory K member? I haven't set the camber, but I'm worried that the strut is going to crash into the K member when turning.
Progress Thread 1980 Notch build - autocross w/occasional trips to the drags
- Thread starter Beagle Bones
- Start date
I would wait and see. When you put weight on that arm/spring the strut is going to get pushed [away] from the k-member.
If you need to do not trim metal off that point. See if you can heat the lip and roll it up like rolling a fender lip. If that works the seal it up so it doesn’t rust out.
85GTStangGuy
5 Year Member
Are you sure you got the correct control arms and spindles? Caster/camber plates mounted correctly?
Another issue I discovered; the rear axle is offset to the passenger side by 3/4 - 1". It's a '95 8.8 that I bought w/the front spindles. I replaced the upper axle bushings (factory style), bought new factory style upper CA's, and I'm reusing (for now) the '95 factory lower CA's that came w/the axle. All bolts are loose for now.
Also; is there any reason I should NOT run a SN95 5.0 & auto trans? As you can see in the previous post, I have no engine, trans, radiator, etc.
Also; is there any reason I should NOT run a SN95 5.0 & auto trans? As you can see in the previous post, I have no engine, trans, radiator, etc.
First you need to check and make sure the hood will close with the spacer stack you currently have on the strut. If it will not then I would say you need to restack the spacers on the struts so that you have (2) 0.48" spacers and (1) 0.24" spacer under the CC plates. Looks like you got the main plates on the proper sides and the bearing plated installed correctly.
Did the axle fit side to side in the other car? Just making sure you do not have bent control arms or bent brackets on the rear end housing. Do you have the rear coil springs oriented correctly? This would be with the bottom pigtails pointing towards the driver side of the car. Best picture I could find on short notice.
Did the axle fit side to side in the other car? Just making sure you do not have bent control arms or bent brackets on the rear end housing. Do you have the rear coil springs oriented correctly? This would be with the bottom pigtails pointing towards the driver side of the car. Best picture I could find on short notice.
The hood closes fine. It was my understanding that one big and one small spacer went below and on top of the plate. I'll try and verify tomorrow. The rear axle was not in a car when I purchased it. The upper CA's are new as I mentioned. The lowers came w/the axle. I have new hardware for the rear CA's so I'll investigate that problem further. I'm not sure about the springs, but I'll give them a look when I'm under there for the CA"s. I wasn't aware that there was a proper orientation for the rear spring. Thank you for the feedback and suggestions. I really appreciate all the help.
From the MM installation instructions:
25. Reinstall the strut shaft retaining nut and hand tighten. (Figure 10)
IMPORTANT - At least one spacer above the spherical bearing is required to allow proper movement. Failure to do so will result in limited bearing articulation and possible damage to the bearing and/or the strut!
25. Reinstall the strut shaft retaining nut and hand tighten. (Figure 10)
IMPORTANT - At least one spacer above the spherical bearing is required to allow proper movement. Failure to do so will result in limited bearing articulation and possible damage to the bearing and/or the strut!
Does anyone have a diagram for the front brake lines? My car didn't have them when I bought it. I purchased a set from Classic Tubes, but I don't have anyway to determine which line is which. I'd like to have a direction before I start straightening the "shipping bends" and can't return the kit if necessary.
What master cylinder are you using? 79-86 were two port, 87-93 were three port with the exception of the 93 Cobra which is a two port, and 94/95 were two port. Make a difference in routing.
It's an 80 with the goofy cross member.. Depending on what engine/ trans combo your going with I'd pick up one of hooker blackheat swap cross members as they clearance out, the type that mounts to the rails or a stifflers universal that does the same, the hookers have adapters for multiple applications, recently used a cheap clearnace sn95 one in a fox body with some Fab work, along with a sn95 blackheart swap exhaust kit for less then $200 total cost. your probably going to need the 82- up style brackets anyway for most bolt in aftermarket ones. Think stifflers has a 79-81 but few bucks more I'd get the kit with the frame brackets.
What is the measurement between the mounting holes? 79-81 should be 2-3/4" and 82-93 is 4-1/2". If yours is the narrow one then you can buy the Stifflers crossmember (https://buystifflers.com/transmission-crossmember-79--81-t-5-tko-tkx-powerglide-th-350/) and weld up the existing mounts. If its the wider one (looks doubtful) then you can just get a stock double hump cross member from an 85-93 car and bolt it in.
I have purchased a universal trans mount kit from Stifflers. I forget how I found their site but I ended up calling them and they got me sorted. At least I hope. It's still in the box waiting it's turn. I'm trying to get the steering, brakes, etc sorted before I try and install the engine,
I have a 94/95 master cylinder feeding the stock brake proportioning valve block?? I don't know it's name. I have the lines from the MC to block (maximum motorsport) and their plug to delete the proportioning valve. My question about the brake lines is which line goes where after the proportioning block. Classic Tubes sent me a box of pre-bent tubes, with "shipping bends" and I don't have originals to try and compare. LMR and Classic Tube where no help when I asked about a diagram.
I have a 94/95 master cylinder feeding the stock brake proportioning valve block?? I don't know it's name. I have the lines from the MC to block (maximum motorsport) and their plug to delete the proportioning valve. My question about the brake lines is which line goes where after the proportioning block. Classic Tubes sent me a box of pre-bent tubes, with "shipping bends" and I don't have originals to try and compare. LMR and Classic Tube where no help when I asked about a diagram.
The brass block is called a combination valve. Contains the proportioning valve and shuttle valve. This is how it should look when done:
The line off the Tee goes to the left front.
Bottom line out of proportioning valve nearest firewall goes to RF caliper.
Bottom line out of proportioning valve nearest radiator goes to rear brakes.
Hope this helps.
The line off the Tee goes to the left front.
Bottom line out of proportioning valve nearest firewall goes to RF caliper.
Bottom line out of proportioning valve nearest radiator goes to rear brakes.
Hope this helps.
