I have a 95 gt i looked today the fan didnt kick on till it got into the middle of operating range i turned ac on max to see if it would go into high speed i heard no noticable increase in the fan. my car will run all the way up to the edge of norm temp but not past. there is no coolant in oil and vice versa. i put my scanner on it didnt pop any related codes. i think its my fan not kicking into high gear but would i replace the whole fan itself or the little black box near the water pump puley with what looks to be fuses imbedded in it. its been doing this for some time but wont ever go past the edge of normal nor would i let it and it doesnt seem to matter how hot it is outside that only seems to effect how long it takes to get to the edge of normal.
more cooling problems
- Thread starter JAXXX
- Start date
Some tech notes:
If low speed isn’t coming on, but you are getting 12 volts to CCRM Pin 14 at or greater than 208*F and the fuses are intact,
Check CCRM Pins 1 and 2 for 12 volts when the fan should be on. If there’s not 12 volts:
Check Pin 15 for ground.
Check pins 3 and 4 for constant 12 volts.
If high speed doesn’t come on at ~228F or with the A/C turned on, but CCRM Pin 17 shows continuity to ground:
Check CCRM pins 6 and 7 for 12 volts when the high speed fan should be on.
Check Pins 3 and 4 for constant 12 volts.
Check Pin 13 for key-on 12 volts.
The stock 94-95 GT fan is a two speed unit.
Low speed comes on at ~208*F.
High speed comes on at ~226-228*F.
To check if the appropriate fan is being triggered by the computer:
To check low speed fan operation, look for 12 volts at CCRM pin 14 with ECT temps greater than ~208*F
To check high speed fan triggering, look for continuity to ground at CCRM Pin 17.
There is a fuse for the fan in the underhood fuse box so don’t forget to check it. There is also an EDF fuse. Don’t forget about it either.
If the car cools decently while going slow for a bit but then heats up until shut off and restarted later (where this cycle repeats), check to see if a circuit breaker was installed on the fan harness. When thermal thresholds are reached, the breaker opens, turning the fan off.
The fan connector/interface itself was known for heating excessively. Unclip the fan connector from the fan motor and ensure that the connector itself and wires and terminals don’t show signs of overheating. Often times, this is overtly evident. Some cars have a circuit breaker retrofitted to the fan connector. If it seems like the fan stops working after a bit of operation, see if this breaker has opened the circuit. This has been known to occur (the breaker was an attempt to keep fan motors/wiring from overloading and catching on fire).
Many desire to install switches to control the fan speeds manually. One would connect CCRM Pin 14 to twelve volts via a switch for low speed switching. One would connect CCRM Pin 17 to ground via a switch for high speed fan operation. Do not run both speeds at once (either via the switches or accidental clashing of one fan switch and the OEM control).
If low speed isn’t coming on, but you are getting 12 volts to CCRM Pin 14 at or greater than 208*F and the fuses are intact,
Check CCRM Pins 1 and 2 for 12 volts when the fan should be on. If there’s not 12 volts:
Check Pin 15 for ground.
Check pins 3 and 4 for constant 12 volts.
If high speed doesn’t come on at ~228F or with the A/C turned on, but CCRM Pin 17 shows continuity to ground:
Check CCRM pins 6 and 7 for 12 volts when the high speed fan should be on.
Check Pins 3 and 4 for constant 12 volts.
Check Pin 13 for key-on 12 volts.
The stock 94-95 GT fan is a two speed unit.
Low speed comes on at ~208*F.
High speed comes on at ~226-228*F.
To check if the appropriate fan is being triggered by the computer:
To check low speed fan operation, look for 12 volts at CCRM pin 14 with ECT temps greater than ~208*F
To check high speed fan triggering, look for continuity to ground at CCRM Pin 17.
There is a fuse for the fan in the underhood fuse box so don’t forget to check it. There is also an EDF fuse. Don’t forget about it either.
If the car cools decently while going slow for a bit but then heats up until shut off and restarted later (where this cycle repeats), check to see if a circuit breaker was installed on the fan harness. When thermal thresholds are reached, the breaker opens, turning the fan off.
The fan connector/interface itself was known for heating excessively. Unclip the fan connector from the fan motor and ensure that the connector itself and wires and terminals don’t show signs of overheating. Often times, this is overtly evident. Some cars have a circuit breaker retrofitted to the fan connector. If it seems like the fan stops working after a bit of operation, see if this breaker has opened the circuit. This has been known to occur (the breaker was an attempt to keep fan motors/wiring from overloading and catching on fire).
Many desire to install switches to control the fan speeds manually. One would connect CCRM Pin 14 to twelve volts via a switch for low speed switching. One would connect CCRM Pin 17 to ground via a switch for high speed fan operation. Do not run both speeds at once (either via the switches or accidental clashing of one fan switch and the OEM control).
Ok, here's how I'd attack it.
Get a real temp gauge. You simply cannot use the stock gauge for diagnostics (where you need to know exact temperatures).
The CCRM is the black box adjacent the radiator overflow. It is a fancy box with 5 relays inside it (Including both fan relays).
When the car reaches 208*F, the low speed fan should come on. If it doesnt, look for 12 volts at CCRM Pin 14. Post up if it's present or not.
WHen the AC is turned on or the car reaches 228*F, the high speed fan should come on. If it isn't coming on, check for continuity to ground at CCRM Pin 17. Post up if this occurs or not.
Really consider using manual fan switches. It's nice to flip a switch if the car starts to get too hot. It is very simple to wire at least a switch for high speed in.
Good luck.
Get a real temp gauge. You simply cannot use the stock gauge for diagnostics (where you need to know exact temperatures).
The CCRM is the black box adjacent the radiator overflow. It is a fancy box with 5 relays inside it (Including both fan relays).
When the car reaches 208*F, the low speed fan should come on. If it doesnt, look for 12 volts at CCRM Pin 14. Post up if it's present or not.
WHen the AC is turned on or the car reaches 228*F, the high speed fan should come on. If it isn't coming on, check for continuity to ground at CCRM Pin 17. Post up if this occurs or not.
Really consider using manual fan switches. It's nice to flip a switch if the car starts to get too hot. It is very simple to wire at least a switch for high speed in.
Good luck.
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