Sounds like you just need a different spring compressor. You are right, coilovers are easy to put in, as long as you check clearance real well with the wheel in all positions. If you had a good inside coil spring compressor, you would have no problem. Check the part #'s carefully and make sure they sent you the right ones for your car.
Moroso Trick Drag Springs - how many coils to cut?
- Thread starter 90mustangGT
- Start date
Freaking nightmare!!!
I think your right, but I am done messing with it. I think it would be alot easier at work, but at home, PITA. I am so frustrated, this whole project has become a nightmare, and I really don't understand how! I had a gut feeling that I should go with coil overs, when am I going to learn to go with these feelings because everytime I go against them I get in a jam. I just didn't want to have to buy C/C plates yet, but now since I have them, might as well go with my original plan. Here is what I have been through so far:
First I am happy because I ordered the stuff from jegs:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=487211
Then I have all kinds of shipping issues:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=489556
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=491719
Finally I get everything and start dissasembling the front end and find all kinds of other crap I need:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=493353
Then I waste all kinds of time and money on the controll arms:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=493594
So this project's budget so far has been:
2 x Lakewood 90/10's $180
2 x Lakewood 50/50's $80
2 x Moroso Rear Springs $100
2 x Moroso Front springs $100
QA1 C/C Plates $155
Poly bushings and ball joints for stock controll arms $105.
So I have spent $720 so far, only intended to spend $460, and the time and energy has been equally as draining. Since the Moroso springs are giving me hell I'm going to spend $200 on front coil overs. This justifies my C/C plates but it completly makes my time and effort with the stock controll arms a waste. After time and effort is considered, It would have been much better deal to get aftermarket A-Arms
So in all, I have lost my a$$ in this project, I guess that's what I get for cutting corners. Live and learn. Maby when all is said and done it will be worth it all.
jerry beach said:
I think your right, but I am done messing with it. I think it would be alot easier at work, but at home, PITA. I am so frustrated, this whole project has become a nightmare, and I really don't understand how! I had a gut feeling that I should go with coil overs, when am I going to learn to go with these feelings because everytime I go against them I get in a jam. I just didn't want to have to buy C/C plates yet, but now since I have them, might as well go with my original plan. Here is what I have been through so far:
First I am happy because I ordered the stuff from jegs:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=487211
Then I have all kinds of shipping issues:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=489556
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=491719
Finally I get everything and start dissasembling the front end and find all kinds of other crap I need:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=493353
Then I waste all kinds of time and money on the controll arms:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=493594
So this project's budget so far has been:
2 x Lakewood 90/10's $180
2 x Lakewood 50/50's $80
2 x Moroso Rear Springs $100
2 x Moroso Front springs $100
QA1 C/C Plates $155
Poly bushings and ball joints for stock controll arms $105.
So I have spent $720 so far, only intended to spend $460, and the time and energy has been equally as draining. Since the Moroso springs are giving me hell I'm going to spend $200 on front coil overs. This justifies my C/C plates but it completly makes my time and effort with the stock controll arms a waste. After time and effort is considered, It would have been much better deal to get aftermarket A-Arms
So in all, I have lost my a$$ in this project, I guess that's what I get for cutting corners. Live and learn. Maby when all is said and done it will be worth it all.
Are the QA1 CC plates aluminum? If so you might have an issue going with coilovers. I went with them because I was sure I would be happy with them, as they are fully adjustable. I went to MM for everything up front and I couldnt be more pleased. Total cost of my suspension project was $1200. Mine is a daily driver, and it rode like crap on the lowering springs that the previous owner installed. If you go the coilover route, make sure you get a spanner wrench to adjust them with along with the kit. You will prolly want to preload the springs some with it in the air, and that wont be possible without one. I know how frustrating this crap can get. I went through removing a rear lower control arm bolt with a sawzall and big hammer and drift. That bolt came out in 3 pieces. 
With coil overs, you install the spring over the strut, then install it as a unit on the car, right?
I might try messing with the Moroso's one more time using spacers on the installer.
Oh yeah, the QA1 C/C plates are steel, pretty beefy, I had to enlarge the holes on the strut tower to get them in.
I might try messing with the Moroso's one more time using spacers on the installer.
Oh yeah, the QA1 C/C plates are steel, pretty beefy, I had to enlarge the holes on the strut tower to get them in.
Yes, you are correct about the c/o install. go to wwwmaximummotorsports.com and look at the installation instructions they have posted on the site for all to view and use for free. That is one thing that really sold me on them. You get to read the instructions and look at the pictures and say yeah, that will be no problem to do. I used a small floor jack, a big floor jack and hand tools. And a great big hammer and breaker bar to get it apart. 
MM also told me that they use a properly fitting piece of billet alum. for the threaded sleeve that goes over the strut, where many companies that make cheaper kits start with an alum. pipe, and thread it. This results in a much better fit, after all your whole front end is riding on these small aluminum parts. I was very happy with the fit. Pay attention to the part where they use a little mirror to check clearances. Very important.
MM also told me that they use a properly fitting piece of billet alum. for the threaded sleeve that goes over the strut, where many companies that make cheaper kits start with an alum. pipe, and thread it. This results in a much better fit, after all your whole front end is riding on these small aluminum parts. I was very happy with the fit. Pay attention to the part where they use a little mirror to check clearances. Very important.
Coilovers rule, and MM rocks. I went with them all the way around, and couldn't be happier. Like Jerry said, the sleeve fits like a condom. One thing if you get them- DO NOT overtighten the set screw in the spring perch, as it will crack the perch. I found out the hard way. Most companies don't even include this set screw in the kit, so it doesn't need to be cranked- just threaded in until it touches. Good luck- sounds like you could use some soon.
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