Progress Thread Motivate Me For The Love Of God

1) Yeah, I hadn't fully appreciated the CNC finishing on these heads until I pulled the valve out and got a better look inside.

2) Oh no, I'm not touching those ports. The headers might be a little overkill, but at least I know they won't be choking the exhaust ports out one bit now.

3) Engine enamel isn't a bad idea. I've used this Rustoleum on rims in the past and they lasted for years without fading or chipping. I figure rims are exposed to the sun and elements a lot more than an engine bay, but then an engine bay sees a lot of heat so maybe ceramic engine enamel is a better choice?

I used this..
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And did this..
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And that was without any prep at all, I just sprayed the factory finish. I don't think I'm going to wet sand or fill holes or anything like that on the engine bay either. At this point just spray bombing it would be a huge improvement. Next time I have the engine out maybe I'll do it right, so the more I think about it, doing it in Por-15 may be a bad idea if it's not easy to sand/grind off.
When dried, it sands easy and can be ground off like other paints.

It can resist chemical way better too.

Plus I think it’s rated to above 250 degrees, so it won’t be any issue in your engine bay.
 
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I like the idea of a brush/roll on paint because there's less chance I'll get overspray on the outside, it feels more controlled. I wonder if the Rustoleum Professional stuff will self level? It comes in a non spray version too and it's way cheaper than Por-15.
 
I like the idea of a brush/roll on paint because there's less chance I'll get overspray on the outside, it feels more controlled. I wonder if the Rustoleum Professional stuff will self level? It comes in a non spray version too and it's way cheaper than Por-15.
I understand cheaper, I was lucky to get mine for nothing.

As long as you clean an scuff up the area you’re going to apply the paint, either will work for you.
 
So guys I've just finished measuring pushrods using this method...

View: https://youtu.be/o5is9BsH5OU


And I'm coming up with exactly 6.5 inches twice in a row (measure twice, order once). Does this sound right for my heads/block/cam etc?

Standard height 302 block as far as I know, cam is an Anderson N-91, heads are AFR 185 Renegade, rockers are Comp Pro Magnum 1.6.
 
So I believe my pushrods are too long. Problem is everyone I ask gives me a different answer. Seems like no 2 people can agree on a way to measure. The video I posted a ways back seems fool proof but apparently I'm a really good fool because something is wrong somewhere.

For starters I was informed that my rockers go on a certain way, that the trunnion actually has a top and bottom. Did not know that, probably had them on all sorts of ways on my old heads.

Second, it seems like the angle of the rocker at max lift is too extreme. The rocker nuts is touching the back side of the rocker. Also the nut doesn't seem screwed down far enough. On the intake side at max lift as the engine is rotating I could swear I see the nut flex as if everything is binding up. The springs seem completely compressed at max lift. These heads are supposed to be good for .600 lift but my cam is only .576, I don't think they should be completely compressed.

I'm beginning to wonder if I a actually have the cam I was told was in this engine when I bought it. If the lift is different than what I'm doing the math for then that would screw it all up.

The sweep on the intake side looks ok but the exhaust side is way off to the edge of the valve stem. I'm guessing that might be because the rocker trunnion was upside down but I haven't had time to mock it up and try again. Even with the sweep being centered on the intake side I feel like the angle of the rocker is still too extreme.

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I feel your pain, just went thru this with mine. The video method does work nut needs a good eye. Use it as a starting point and the use your adjustable pushrod and a dry erase marker to find the smallest sweep from there. The flat side of the rocker trunnion goes to the nut.

There are longer studs available, you want 9-10 turns minimum engagement on the threads with a 3/8 stud.
 
I feel your pain, just went thru this with mine. The video method does work nut needs a good eye. Use it as a starting point and the use your adjustable pushrod and a dry erase marker to find the smallest sweep from there. The flat side of the rocker trunnion goes to the nut.

There are longer studs available, you want 9-10 turns minimum engagement on the threads with a 3/8 stud.

How about a 7/16 stud?
 
About the same, my math is failing me at the moment. You want at least as much full thread enagament as the size of the fastener.

What rockers are you running btw? I had a horrible time with the geometry of my comp steel ones, pattern just did not want to get as small as I thought it should be.
 
About the same, my math is failing me at the moment. You want at least as much full thread enagament as the size of the fastener.

What rockers are you running btw? I had a horrible time with the geometry of my comp steel ones, pattern just did not want to get as small as I thought it should be.

Comp Pro Magnum 1.6s. They ran fine on my old C9OE heads. I really wish it was simple enough that AFR could sell heads/rockers/pushrods in a complete bolt on package. Too many variables I guess. I'll get back out there maybe tonight and see what I can figure out.
 
Man, I had a terrible time adjusting my rockers, and I did have a complete package previously assembled by Woody. I feel your pain, there are 100 methods for valve train geometry measuring and adjusting. I wish you luck getting it right without pulling your hair out. It'll just take time and several attempts Im sure.
 
Well it has yet again been a long time no see huh? How's everyone been doing? Seems like every time I think I'm getting back into this, life has other plans for me but the coupe is still here and it looks like it might actually leave the garage under its own power at some point this year.

I picked up the new stroker yesterday.

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I couldn't resist mocking it all up. I had the intake and valve covers powder coated years ago but I'm not sure I wanna keep them this color now. My original plans back then were to try to make the engine look factory but that won't happen now so I may have them coated again.

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Still need a bunch of little things...balancer, probably getting some aftermarket accessory brackets, flywheel and clutch, gonna clean up the engine bay a bit but I'm not welding up everything, just too much work and this is a driver not a show car.

Just feels good to be working on it again after so long.
 
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Yeah I guess I left that part out didn't I? Lol?


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Edited out prices because I don't like speaking for people, if you're interested in an engine from Fordstrokers I can't recommend them enough, they've been a joy to work with and can give you a quote over the phone.



Oh, the heads are 185 Renegades. Probably a bit smallish for a 363, I bought them for my last 347 and never got around to using them. We'll see what kind of power they make and go from there.
 
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Nice. I should be picking up my 365 (4.135 x 3.4) short block in the next few weeks.
Being done by a local (about 50 miles away) machine shop that specializes in Ford small blocks.

I will start my own build thread when i get the engine back and give everyone the ugly details. It has been a 2 + year journey.