MOTOR BLOWN AND CAN'T DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well my car keeps dumping coolant out the overflow, and one of my brothers said water was coming out of my exhuast (it was *94 out). And for some reason my radiator was cold and I uncapped it and coolant shot out everywhere it was cold So Now Im thinking blown head gasket.:(:(

Question is where can I pick up a coolant pressure tester?
 
Wow, I hope it is something simple.
Doesn't sound good though.

If you think water is getting into a cylinder, you gotta be careful about spinning the
engine or running it. Don't wanna push your luck with hydrolock. Right now you might
'just' have a head gasket to replace. If it hydrolocks, you could ruin the engine itself.
This is assuming that the engine didn't hydrolock during the original/initial breakdown.

A bad thermostat can cause overheating while the radiator is still cold, but I don't know
how the pressure you experienced would play into that. I am just trying to find a way to
explain the problem without it being a major issue...

My bro-in-law was using my pickup once for about a week. He knew that it burned a little
oil and leaked a little oil. The oil level needed to be checked every other day or so.
Sometimes it got really low when the temp was high or use was hard. This was during the
height of summer and he was working out of the truck, so oil would go fast.

He called me and said the truck 'just stopped' and he was on the side of the road. The truck
wouldn't start back either.

I asked him: "Did you check the oil?"

He said: (are you ready for this?)
"I haven't even got out of the truck yet!"
:mad: :rolleyes: :rlaugh: :shrug:


Edit:
The timing chain theory doesn't really stand. The chain doesn't just slip to the point of not
running, then go back to running later, as though it was just a momentary slip. When a
timing chain slips, it doesn't go back, and if the situation does change, it is only for the worse.

If you ever think the chain has slipped, don't run it again. If it has slipped far enough,
or slips again, you can destroy lots of parts from the valves being out of time with the pistons!:eek:
 
My car has shot coolant out of the radiator before when it had air in the system (why I'm not sure). After getting air out of the system it acted normal. You need to do a complete compression test on all 8 cylinders. If you have a blown head gasket you should have a cylinder with low compression.

If all cylinders check ok fix your coolant leak (I would also replace the thermostat also) and fill the radiator but leave the radiator cap off. Crank the engine and let it run till the thermostat opens refill with coolant and you should be fine.

My car has blown coolant out of the radiator while doing this once right before the thermostat opened but once the thermostat opened the coolant level went way down and after topping off the radiator it has been fine since. It scared me because I thought I had a head gasket that didn't seal on my new engine but it turned out to be fine.
 
Well i took it for another drive It started over heating again So I started ripping into it. I got it all taken apart but not cleaned. I also broke one of the front bolts for the lower intake in the head. My question is if/when I get it out where can I get another bolt, Would a parts store supply them??? And should I replace the head bolts?

And I got some sand in the lifter valley vaccumed most of it up but couldn't get the rest, hope it comes out with oil change.

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I had 5 exhuast leaks that could have caused my rough idle. 1 big leak on #8 and #1,2,3,4 were all leaking. I was using bbk gaskets with copper rtv.:D:nonono:

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Atleast my cylinders still have the cross hatching.:nice:
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And I found the problem. :nice:
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Its funny how it looks to be very difficult but its really easy. :nice:
 
Whats for lunch kids??? Heads A la Mode Via lunch tray. :spot:

Doesn't look too bad...it could be worse. It is recommended to buy some new bolts. Get some ARP studs. Same goes for intake bolts. Engine heat cycles weaken bolts. Its a little insurance so you don't have to look at head gaskets for a while. If you got bolts snapping im sure the rest of the bolts that didn't snap aren't doing that much better. You could be like me and reinstall the intake and snap a bolt 3/4 of the way threw the torque sequence and have to rip everything apart again. :nonono:
 
good to see its something simple like a head gasket. your better off getting new head and intake bolts. they aren't that expensive, and it's better to buy them now then to keep replacing head gaskets
 
Yeah I went out to Powered by ford and got new lifters, exhuast gaskets, head bolts, I got some grade 8 bolts for the intake,
I just replaced timing chain and about to replace the water pump, SO i should/ might have it running before the end of tomorrow.
 
Well it finally runs. No leaks, But it has a rough idle vaccum is a steady 18, fuel pressure is at 34psi, oil when hot runs at 34-50.

I need to replace my balancer again, Does anyone make a balancer that does not come apart? A part #would be great.
 
Well it finally runs. No leaks, But it has a rough idle vaccum is a steady 18, fuel pressure is at 34psi, oil when hot runs at 34-50.

I need to replace my balancer again, Does anyone make a balancer that does not come apart? A part #would be great.

I have a Romac which has worked fine the past 2 years. On my 302 i used a Fluidampr. From what i hear you shouldn't get balancers with fluid systems. Whatever you do don't buy a CAT one. Summit seems to have some nice ones. You get what you pay for (or don't pay for). If i had to do it again i would get one with a removable counter weight (so you can use it on a SBF with a different balance later). The good balancers start at $300 new like TCI/ ATI.