MS3 Pro
- Thread starter revhead347
- Start date
Yes, Steve was there. He was either very impressed or partially dismayed that I printed out the entire set of directions and put them in a 1/2" binder with tabs to common references like pin outs. Ben had it all worked out in about 3 minutes, set my injectors for me, programmed the widebands in, and showed me a couple things. Then Steve and I talked about car stuff for about an hour. The experience was very comfortable.
The car still has to go to a tuner to work out the VE tables and stuff, but it idles better on the out of the can tune that it comes with then it ever did with the factory computer with a "tune" chip on it.
I just realized I hadn't updated my sig to reflect my new tow pig either.
Kurt
Last edited:
Yes, I noticed. I haven't gotten the car running, and what I have is already obsolete. They told me other than the internal wideband there really aren't any functional differences. It just makes installing it easier. I am running two wide bands on mine, so I would still need to run another one through the can bus.
Kurt
If anything i think it just makes it an easier install for a newbie. Wiring in my WB controller was prob the longest part of my install. Now, with it being internal, you just need to splice in the WB to the factory harness and you are done.
But you'd still need a 2nd if you wanted to run two wide bands
But you'd still need a 2nd if you wanted to run two wide bands
I agree it makes it easier. Running wires has never been a problem for me, it's trying to configure Tuner Studio based on dubious instructions.
I have a question for you. Did you re activate your cannister purge solenoid? Based on what I can tell from the wiring diagram, the cannister purge gets constant power from the CCRM (in my car anyway), and the ECU grounds the solenoid to open it. I am going to try and run it off high output 3, but that means I would have to run new wires to it.
Kurt
Correction: According to chatgpt, High Output 3 provides a commanded ground current. Looks like I just have to connect it to the appropriate wire on the ECU harness.
Kurt
Kurt
I did not reactivate it. The setup is still in place, but I have no command going to it to open and close it.
I think I do have a spare on/off output. I think my hurdle was understanding the logic as to when to open/close it. The A9x logic that I have shows a very complex ladder logic that I can’t wrap my head around. Been trying to simplify it. Maybe just open it at idle when engine warmed up or something like that.
I think I do have a spare on/off output. I think my hurdle was understanding the logic as to when to open/close it. The A9x logic that I have shows a very complex ladder logic that I can’t wrap my head around. Been trying to simplify it. Maybe just open it at idle when engine warmed up or something like that.
It's the only emissions control device I want to keep functional, so the car don't stank! According to the conversation I had with Steve directly, the spare on/off output should be either high current output 1 or high current output 3 (pins L and P respectively). I chatgpt'd for whatever that's worth. The parameters should be TPS<40%, MAP<100%, CLT<140 deg F, and RPM > 1500. Then command 15% to 25% duty, and 0% at idle and WOT. That's what chatgpt says anyway. I'm going to wire it in and take it to Kurgan and see what they say. If I get any better information I'll pass it back, but chances are, I'm the only person on the planet that wants their canister purge solenoid to work properly, and they won't have a clue.
Kurt
Last edited:
Getting the CanP to work properly would be ideal, but if you can't, I've used charcoal canister from https://www.vaportrapper.com/ on several projects. They work really well and look cool. I can't speak on the longevity as I sold the vehicles shortly after finishing. But the reviews seem really good. They claim 5-7 years betwen charges. Downside is the cost.
I actually bought one after seeing it mounted in a trunk at a car show. I asked what it was and the owner told me how much it changed his marriage after the garage (and attached house) stopped smelling like fuel lol.
Separately out of curiosity, when you program the CanP to operate can you also adjust the tune to compensate for the vacuum leak and fuel vapors? Seems there would need to be some logic associated.
I actually bought one after seeing it mounted in a trunk at a car show. I asked what it was and the owner told me how much it changed his marriage after the garage (and attached house) stopped smelling like fuel lol.
Separately out of curiosity, when you program the CanP to operate can you also adjust the tune to compensate for the vacuum leak and fuel vapors? Seems there would need to be some logic associated.
That makes sense with regards to the conditions to operate. However the solenoid is just an on/off type, so using duty cycles won't make sense here. Either 100% or 0% is all you will get unless you change that solenoid out for something else.
Perhaps i'll try this when i get some time. I still need to add in my second WB and relocate my ACT from the intake manifold to the air inlet due to heat soak.
I think we talked about it already. I yanked my O2 harness, and ran it all via can bus. When ever the instructions had (recommended), that's the way I went.
Attachments
Similar threads
