Must. Adjust. Camber. Or. Die. (Adjustment Questions)

[Snail50]

I just installed my GW Neg Roll UCA's, and rather than lower the car another inch and introduce negative camber, the car sits at the same height as before, and the tires angle out like this: \-/ That's extreme positive camber, right? And what's worse is that on 3/4 lock, the ball joint hits the lip of my nice new 17x8" TT II's.

I'm guessing that the car had plenty of + camber dialed in to begin with, and lowering the UCA only accentuated it (I don't know a lot about alignment, so if I'm way off on this, let me know).

Anyway, I need to dial in some negative camber. Hopefully this will lower the front as it should be and bring the tires in like this: /-\.

On a 67, this is done by adjusting the lower arm eccentrics, right?? Is there a specific way to do this, or do I just loosen everything up and move the arm outwards until it stops??

Also, will this help with the ball joint clearance issues?? Supposedly Neg Wedges and Neg Roll UCAs are supposed to FIX clearance problems with larger rims (I got the Neg Roll UCAs first for the handling improvement, second for the rim clearance).

Thanks all.

 

[Snail50]

H3LP.

 

[bnickel]

changing the camber on the 67-up cars is done by moving the LCA's in or out, in your case they do need to be moved out, that will also lower the car back to the correct ride height. the easiest way i have found to adjust tha camber in the driveway is to jack the car up and place a sheet of plywood about 2 feet square under each wheel with sveral wooden dowels under each piece of plywood parallel with tires, then let the car down onto them. you can now adjust the camber without having to resort to jacking the car up and down numerous times to get it right. this will get you close enough that you can actually drive the car to the alignment shop without tearing up the tires

 

[Snail50]

thanks!

 

[Snail50]

btw, how much adjustment can be made to the LCAs at the eccentrics? Do I just adjust the LCA outward until the tires "look" right??

AND WHY DOES MY THREAD KEEP HIDING??? every time I look for it, it's gone from the front page, and I have to do a search to find it!!

 

[67GTA-FB429]

Snail: you had a goog thing going and tried to make it better. Then it went south on ya. Did the stock setup clear the 17s??

 

[Snail50]

my thread disappeared again! what's going on with that??

Buzz: the stock setup cleared the 17s no problem.

 

[bnickel]

go to the bottom of the index page and choose show all threads, you probably have it set at the default setting of 2 days, that's why your post keeps disappearing

 

[Hack]

The negative wedge is an extra part between the ball joint and the upper A arm. The whole sandwich has to fit inside the rim. The wedge puts the ball joint at a better angle so that it won't bind or wear out prematurely. However, it does reduce the clearance for your wheel.

 

[Snail50]

The negative wedge is an extra part between the ball joint and the upper A arm. The whole sandwich has to fit inside the rim. The wedge puts the ball joint at a better angle so that it won't bind or wear out prematurely. However, it does reduce the clearance for your wheel.

Right, but the Global West Negative Roll kit includes new tubular UCAs with the "wedge" angles already built in. The NR UCAs mount 1 3/8" lower than stock, which is supposedly the "optimum" point for introducing true negative camber (with their UCAs).

From what I've read, relocating the UCAs or installing new ones causes most problems for 16" rims, where the ball joint sits right at rim-lip level; with 17" rims (like I have), it's supposed to be less of a problem...yet here I am, with the ball joint hard up against the rim when the steering is locked out. (I put my stock rims back on to avoid damaging my TTIIs.)

By now I have adjusted my LCAs for more negative camber, but it still looks like things are going to rub. I have everything dialed in close enough to where I can get it to the alignment shop, but I'm wondering how much a correct alignment will help.

Also, I'll be installing Baer 4 wheel discs next week, and I've heard that disc brakes move the rim's mounting point slightly outward. If so, that might alleviate the rub. Anyone know about this?

Thanks everyone for your input.

and my thread is still disappearing; my settings are set to view threads from the last five days...I started this thread yesterday, and several times since then it's disappeared, while older threads are still on the front page. wierd...

 

[DukeGnarley]

i would try GW tech support

 

[Snail50]

i would try GW tech support

I'm planning to do that tomorrow; I discovered the problem yesterday (Saturday) afternoon after I finished