Mustang II One Wire Alternator Conversion?

[IICrew]

I read some of the google results. Looks like Ford cut some corners again on your alternator. I was a Ford service advisor for several years. I went through their certified commercial advisor training. One thing that stuck out to me from that was they pay actuaries to scour warranty claims. If there is NOT enough failures they tell the vendor they are cutting a percentage of what ford will pay for that part. Then it's up to the vendor to cheapen the manufacturing of the part until they get the desired failure rate. The Ford suit that told us was proud of it. They had saved a lot of money. He had no idea he was bragging to service advisors who were disgusted by that. That made our job harder. I am sure other manufacturers do it but I have a lot of disdain for modern Fords.

My sister (escape), my son (fiesta), my daughter ( baby escape aka ecosport), and my son in law( focus st) bought brand new Fords between 2012 and 2016. All were a nightmare. All due to cost cutting. None of them will ever buy another Ford. None of the vehicles made it past 50,000 miles. I had owned and promoted Ford to my family. I cost them a lot of headaches. The only one I think was well built is my moms 2001 Escape. Over 20 years ago she bought it new and it now has about 55,000 miles. So it is not a good barometer.

Today there is Dodge, GM and Mustang II's in my stable. None are Ford products as Ford abandoned the II's way back when.

 

[IICrew]

Thank you for the great info. Looks like I can remove the alternator harness completely then without fear.

Since this is a custom build just verify you have a heavy gauge wire on the solenoid posative post that feeds the main harness.

 

[LILCBRA]

Ford abandoned the II's way back when.

Ford has abandoned a lot in the last however many years. When I had the chance to buy a new vehicle after my accident in 2015 - and even now when I toss the idea around - Ford has hardly been on my radar. They're destroying themselves.....

 

[IICrew]

My sister bought a used 08 Tundra to replace her 2012 escape after multiple ac and electrical issues. She fought that car until the warranty was about to expire. My sons fiesta was rear ended at 3 years old. He had about 45k on it. The imitation steel rear bumper had already rusted away to the point the c shape was just flat. It folded like paper. The Acura sedan that hit him drove away. His car was totaled. The rear doors wouldn't open and the front doors were hard to open. He drives a Dodge Journey and after 5 years it's been trouble free. My daughters eco-whatever had the coolant issues. Was in the shop repeatedly. After picking it up from Ford for the 2nd engine in under 30k she drove straight from ford service dept to subaru. My son in law had the manual Focus st which was always throwing codes and missing. The fix was just dealing with it. He started having trans issues and dumped it for a honda suv. They don't have kids but he was so frustrated with the (sporty) Focus he now drives a honda suv and loves it. Turned him off sporty cars all together.

Maybe the above is why they stopped making sedans. Not the public didn't want sedans. It's that the public stopped buying Ford cars as they have turned to .

 

[3djedi]

Thank you everyone for the suggestions/help/tips. Greatly appreciated! Note the previous 10 gauge wire coming off of the alternator and trapped between the alternator and block. Didn't like it but thought I had to live with it. Didn't know anything about clocking an alternator until yesterday. Removed and clocked 180 degrees to clear the block and also changed 10 gauge (manufacturer instructions) to 6 gauge (per forum recommendations). Will work way better now!

 

[Adieu]

My sister bought a used 08 Tundra to replace her 2012 escape after multiple ac and electrical issues.

I replaced a 2014 F150 that I bought new with a 2008 4Runner after three years. Zero regrets, that Toyota just soldiers on day in and day out without any of the annoying issues the F150 brought to my daily commute.

I think we officially have the most hijacked thread in the II forum going on here...

 

[3djedi]

I replaced a 2014 F150 that I bought new with a 2008 4Runner after three years. Zero regrets, that Toyota just soldiers on day in and day out without any of the annoying issues the F150 brought to my daily commute.

I think we officially have the most hijacked thread in the II forum going on here...

Fine by me ...since I got the info I was looking for! Thank you again!

 

[Adieu]

At gas station today I struck up a convo with an old gentleman who had a 2004 Mustang GT. Without even saying anything to him he said "only issues I've had is with the alternator and battery" I started laughing and told him me too. He popped the hood for me and he had a quick disconnect switch to cut the draw when he doesn't drive it. He said a shop guy told him that if he doesn't drive it enough the battery will drain due to all the electrical demand. I've known this from experience though.

And if you worked for ford, you must know that no one takes their car to ford. The cars that are affected are just out of warranty when they start going bad. I've always used mom and pop shops, but after a few times in a row I thought maybe Ford would finally know something and be able to fix it, that's the only reason I went to ford and never again. They just swept the problem under the rug and sold me the whole under warranty speech, without specifying labor wouldn't be included when the alternator goes bad. They also completely disregarded my plea to put in a 2010 3g alternator and said it was out of spec. At least they gave me a complimentary rental before charging me freaking $900 for a basic alternator exchange. I was stuck at work with no options, I had already had the car towed there and they kept under shooting how much it would cost out the door. When it started going bad again I took it back to Ford, she said I would have to pay over $150 or so just to have them look at it, I drove off knowing I could put that towards a new alt and fix it myself since they continue to play their games.

I worked for Ford when those cars were still new and under warranty.

If Ford installed a Ford alternator, and it's what failed within two years of installation, it's absolutely under warranty. Find a different dealership, they can look up the previous repair in Oasis.

 

[Adieu]

If you want to upgrade to the 2010 spec alternator, Remy has it under part number 12903, and AC Delco has it under 3343021. It's a Denso design that Denso themselves no longer remanufactures. Do me a favor and post a picture of your battery either here or in a thread in the S197 section.

 

[Adieu]

Part is indeed under warranty, but the labor is not. I called and asked about it and also spoke to someone in person. They will still charge you labor. The labor charge is more than buying a new bigger alt myself and having another shop do it.

And I've upgraded the battery before too. It may have helped a little bit with the bigger alt, but it's a fine line because then there's more for the alt to charge when it drains. I have an AC Delco battery currently because that's what most recent shop carried. I think I had one long ago too. Ford put in a Motorcraft obviously. Currently just running stock size battery. And I'm not convinced 3g alt solves the problem entirely, especially for those who have serious parasitic draw. I've read numerous people still having the issues after trying the 3g alternator. Pretty sure it's a computer problem. Look up "CD Error" as well. CD player randomly tries to turn on when locked and no one is in the car. The discs spin and try to load but it just says CD Error then turns off after a minute. Happens throughout the night or whenever you open the car door. I have pulled fuses to the shaker 500 and to the radio/clock. I am not the only one with this issue. There are multiple posts of people claiming solutions on the internet and on youtube. I've been following the issue for years and have spent a lot of time reading about it. Just be glad it doesn't affect your car. And yes I've cleaned my terminslas and grounds. Multiple shops have checked my work, and also cleaned terminals themselves, and said everything looks fine it's not dirty terminals. I could go on and on for pages talking about this about other things I've tried. There is no solution, it's a schematics issue from the drawing board. Probably on purpose to ensure enough people buy the newer faster models. I'm sure there was a reason. I'm not mad I want that 420 hp mustang to be more affordable one day.

Whoever you spoke to about the warranty is flat-out wrong. Ford themselves dictates warranty policy, not the dealership. If the part was installed by the dealership, labor is covered too. Hell, Ford will cover labor on a Motorcraft battery they didn't install if you have your receipt and it fails using their tester (that's the only thing they warranty that way). See the attached PDF.



If you have a parasitic draw, that's easy to diagnose. Eric The Car Guy has a how-to on YouTube.

Parasitic draws became a specialty of mine when I worked at BMW, where a door handle could wake up every module on the CAN-BUS repeatedly without registering a fault in any of them until the battery died, or the alternator could do it (yeah, those idiots put the alternator on the CAN), or the electric water pump, or the amplifier...

Hell, I really want to find one of these dealerships that doesn't honor warranty and doesn't make their techs back up a diagnosis, I could make a lot more money if I wasn't dealing with warranty pay rates or having to care if something wasn't fixed the first time.

 

[chrlsful]

I did some of this w/my '70. From 60/90 amp G1 to the G3. Wanted to smooth the bay w/o the regulator (internal to the 130 amp). Thought I'd keep goin w/the mods & remove the starting solenoid from same inner fender (new wiring w/#2AWG, mega fuse, etc). I am re-thinking 2 things (got the look I wanted tho).
I). What's the more than 2X power increase gunna do to my 42 y/o wires (H4 headlights have new wiring/relays);
2). I'll put ina volt meter (on dash) as I imagine the amp meter will not work but all the extra wiring is off the ol solenoid just hanging. I'd like to put ina diode to save the dash wires, havea 'alternator light' but am not sure how.
Thnx ~
(dont think this is off topic. Let me know if it is & will run a separate thread)

 

[IICrew]

As long as you use the appropriate gauge wire from alternator to the battery your fine. The higher amperage will only run on that wire if it's large enough. If this wire is too small it could cause bleedover. I would power any added accessories off relays. Like your headlights. Only use the ignition/oem wiring for a signal to turn on or off the relays.

 

[chrlsful]

As long as you use the appropriate gauge wire from alternator to the battery your fine. The higher amperage will only run on that wire if it's large enough. If this wire is too small it could cause bleedover. I would power any added accessories off relays. Like your headlights. Only use the ignition/oem wiring for a signal to turn on or off the relays.

yup, 2 AWG there (w/mega fuse). U remind me, I could use a newer/stronger keyed ign switch or figure how to add these relays U mention. That would save alota rewiring... the ol fuse box is only 5 to 7 slots. Will have CB (its a 4WD 1st gen bronk, not the 1 in sig) 2nd winch battery, that's it beyond it's oem configuration.
Thnx Crew~

 

[IICrew]

I am using the stock ignition wire that fed the coil/distributor to trigger all my relays. They in turn power fan/dizzy/radio/coil and gauges. The one ignition wire attaches to one relay and only that one relay. That relay triggers 5 other relays that control the above. No need to upgrade the ignition switch doing it this way. Your actually relieving some stress on the switch.

You really want to minimize what runs through the ignition switch. Just find one wire that's hot with key on. Use it to trigger relays. Being a '70 you may be able to use the dizzy power wire but if it is still set up for points it only has 9 volts. Some relays will work with 9v. Some wont. Just be aware of what your buyng or use a different hot.

 

[chrlsful]

nope DSII upgrade.
Humm, U make it sound easy (auto electrics, my worse).
Will dwn load this for return in coupla mo when bronk is back in garage.

 

[IICrew]

The right tools make wiring so much easier. I hated wiring and half assed it for years. When I got the right connectors and hand tools it was a game changer.

Get a nice wire striper. I used to use a lighter or utility knife. Or god forbid the flimsy crap stripper they sell at autozone. Good Irwin strippers, not the flimsy crap. They make a world of difference.

Dedicated crimper. I have a pair of the ratcheting crimpers that do blue, yellow and red connectors. It makes nice secure connections.

Get good connectors. I like the gel filled heat shrink connectors. They shrink and the gel seals when you apply heat. Avoid the red and yellow ones that come in the cheap wiring repair kits. They are hard as a rock and usually tear. The nice ones are more of a rubber vs the hard plastic of the cheapo ones.

Get some decent wire of different colors. As well as shrink tubing.

Should be able to do that for $150. You can tell me you haven't wasted $150 on other parts or tools. I wont believe it but you can say it.

Lastly a decent meter. You don't need a Snap On Fluk meter but....... I love my MAC meter. and have used several of the attachments I didn't think I ever would. This is like a farm tractor to me. You always buy at least one level up from what you currently think you need. As you get familiar with it you will use more and more of the features on it. If you get the cheapest one you never realize what else you can use it for.

Solder is not a good means for connections. Never solder wires. The joints can break with vibrations. Electrical tape and wire nuts are not for automotive use. I know these things as I have done them with varying degrees of success. The varying is what will frustrate the hell out you. lol

 

[LILCBRA]

I still hate wiring, but @IICrew ain't lying! Having the right stuff makes a world of difference. I ended up "splurging" on a Fluke meter on Amazon. After having gone through a few different meters of varying degrees, this one will hopefully be the last one I buy. Personally, I just think it's an investment that pays for itself with all of the things I do both in the garage and in the house. This is the one I bought, I don't think it's badly priced....

Amazon product ASIN B00HEAMLCOView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HEAMLCO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Adieu]

There's what gets used at the shop. Electrical repairs are kind of a specialty of mine. Pro-tip, any of these tools branded "Matco" were made by someone else and can be found cheaper from the company that manufactured them. The big battery cable crimpers and the orange-handled specialty crimpers are from a Chinese company called "Iwiss" that makes damned good knock-offs of other tools.

 

[danielmeyers]

At gas station today I struck up a convo with an old gentleman who had a 2004 Mustang GT. Without even saying anything to him he said "only issues I've had is with the alternator and battery" I started laughing and told him me too. He popped the hood for me and he had a quick disconnect switch to cut the draw when he doesn't drive it. He said a shop guy told him that if he doesn't drive it enough the battery will drain due to all the electrical demand. I've known this from experience though.

And if you worked for ford, you must know that no one takes their car to ford. The cars that are affected are just out of warranty when they start going bad. I've always used mom and pop shops, but after a few times in a row I thought maybe Ford would finally know something and be able to fix it, that's the only reason I went to ford and never again. They just swept the problem under the rug and sold me the whole under warranty speech, without specifying labor wouldn't be included when the alternator goes bad. They also completely disregarded my plea to put in a 2010 3g alternator and said it was out of spec. At least they gave me a complimentary rental before charging me freaking $900 for a basic alternator exchange. I was stuck at work with no options, I had already had the car towed there and they kept under shooting how much it would cost out the door. When it started going bad again I took it back to Ford, she said I would have to pay over $150 or so just to have them look at it, I drove off knowing I could someone write my paper for me https://writemypapers4me.net put that towards a new alt and fix it myself since they continue to play their games.

And it's true - that's almost the only problem. I know that my father has already repaired it a couple of times, or rather not him but his mechanic. I can't say exactly what was included in the repair work, but I think the bearing was changed, a new voltage regulator was bought and the winding was restored, that's all.
The only good thing in this situation is that the repair of the generator is not too difficult.

 

[chrlsful]

ahma step below post #13. "It works fine." But better would be nice. Have not seen the 'gell filled, cripm-ons (U heatshring too"). Soderin seems quicker than all these steps (I use a battery pin tip one) but may try the nxt gen method now I seen it. BUT, I still dont have the theory, make good use of a tester beyond a bulb/wire (now a probe w/alagator ground & light-in-handel) to test continuity. Dont know an ohm from a watt to a volt...