Mustang5L5 DIY MS3x Thread

a91what · Apr 17, 2019

yes on all accounts, if you wanted to drive the coil directly you would need to use a bip373 driver circuit. IMO not needed.

Mustang5L5 · Apr 17, 2019

a91what said:
yes on all accounts, if you wanted to drive the coil directly you would need to use a bip373 driver circuit. IMO not needed.

I actually bought the Bip373. Thought I would need it a while back, but turns out I didn't. So it's an option...

a91what · Apr 17, 2019

Mustang5L5 said:
I actually bought the Bip373. Thought I would need it a while back, but turns out I didn't. So it's an option...

then i suggest building it and bypassing the TFI with an 'add a fuse' you can pick the spout signal up and fire the coil directly without any real major hacking of the stock harness
EDIT: i suppose you could fire the IDM circuit, it goes to the negative side of the coil... I would have to look at the harness diagram to be sure.

Mustang5L5 · Apr 17, 2019

a91what said:
then i suggest building it and bypassing the TFI with an 'add a fuse' you can pick the spout signal up and fire the coil directly without any real major hacking of the stock harness
EDIT: i suppose you could fire the IDM circuit, it goes to the negative side of the coil... I would have to look at the harness diagram to be sure.

I've seen guys on the MS FB group talking about it. Problem is not a lot of detail on how they did it. But i'll do some research. This stuff has become my nightly reading and been learning a lot.

a91what · Apr 17, 2019

Mustang5L5 said:
I've seen guys on the MS FB group talking about it. Problem is not a lot of detail on how they did it. But i'll do some research. This stuff has become my nightly reading and been learning a lot.

the idm has a 22k resistor in the wiring near the firewall, this rules it out for driving the coil without bypassing the resistor.
you have the option of removing pins 2 and 5 from the TFI connector and somehow jumpering them together if you do not want to cut them. [a fuse between them would likely work just fine]
I have people bypass the TFI to run an MSD box directly by using one of these in place of the spout connector [or similar]
Amazon product ASIN B011I9QZX2View: https://www.amazon.com/Pixnor-Circuit-Piggy-Standard-Holder/dp/B011I9QZX2/ref=asc_df_B011I9QZX2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167140365824&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13978515431824850595&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9051872&hvtargid=pla-307234676336&psc=1

you would face the wire lead tward the harness and do not plug the fuse in. then run the wire over to the MSD box, you could use this method to run a wire over to the coil negative. BIP373 on the spout wire then intercept and fire coil directly. or run a fresh wire if you want..... ill stop ranting now.

Mustang5L5 · Apr 20, 2019

F it....I bought some LS truck coils. I have some ideas of where/how I'll mount them.

As for the TFI, I'll install the Bip373 and control the coil directly.

a91what · Apr 20, 2019

Mustang5L5 said:
F it....I bought some LS truck coils. I have some ideas of where/how I'll mount them.

As for the TFI, I'll install the Bip373 and control the coil directly.

ughhh... do one or the other... no sense in doing both. You also need the CAS from stinger.

Mustang5L5 · Apr 20, 2019

a91what said:
ughhh... do one or the other... no sense in doing both. You also need the CAS from stinger.

You are right, but I want to just get the engine running right now on the ms with tfi.

5.0Thunder · Apr 24, 2019

Glad somebody is using stock VSS. Seems not many have used it successfully, likely because of the need for a conditioner circuit. Idk if Ms3Pro's conditioners work well with a stock VSS so I bought dual hall sensors for wheel hubs, since they can go straight to the ECU. Cost for me was about $50 for cherry sensors.

Mustang5L5 · Apr 25, 2019

Really wasn't that hard to add the conditioner board and then connect it to an input. Still have one more spare conditioner that I was going to use for the front hub eventually.

Mustang5L5 · Apr 26, 2019

Slow day at work. Printed a case for the Jimstim

Also got my LS2/truck style coils. I think I have an idea on how I'd like to mount them.

I know I'm all over the place here but I Have a plan.

a91what · Apr 26, 2019

Coils are used?

Mustang5L5 · Apr 27, 2019

Mustang5L5 · Apr 29, 2019

Final update on the actual MS3X ECU build.

BIP373 is wired in to control the stock style coil
An additional VR circuit is wired into spare 1 and 2 connecting to PT4. This will be for the front ABS speed sensor
Added a mapdaddy dual MAP board.

This should give me the major stuff I need right now and in the future. I have a spare spindle/hub and ABS sensor, so i'll bench test this.

Starting to put together my excel sheet for where pins 1-37 on the MS3 and 3x need to go. Ordered some spare wire and connectors and getting set to start building the harness and getting this in the car. Got a rough idea of how I want to set up the harness. I bought a spare glovebox to hack up, as I want to mount the box in the glovebox so I can open it up to access the ECU. No idea just yet if it will actually fit. Wiring harness will then run down down to the kick panel area where part of it will hook to the stock ford ecu harness, and there will be a few small subharnesses to other parts of the wiring that are non-ford.

Getting really excited to start getting into the tuning aspect of things vs the hardware.

Edit: tested the wheel speed sensor and bip373 output. Everything looks good on the bench

Mustang5L5 · May 2, 2019

Work in progress on my wiring. First double checking and triple checking my pinout. Here's the wiring so far.

This is for TFI with the coin driven directly by the BIP373 on pin 36.

I've also added fan control, as well as wired in the TAD/TAB and made provisions for A/C use by controlling the WOT relay as well as a wire in confirming A/C is on to activate my fan and control idle up. I'll have to test some of this later, but the engine running stuff should be good to go.

One PDF per wiring harness.

Hope to start making the harnesses this weekend.

I also ordered my Wide-Bands from the link you recommended Steve

Mustang5L5 · May 6, 2019

Plugging away. Soldered up the main and expansion harness db37s. I did wire in every wire even though I know I won't be using a few. I don't mind tucking the spares, vs trying to add the wire later.

All that's left is to mate it to the rotunda harness. I'm just checking and double checking my wiring schematics before I do that.

Also, ordered a pair of wide bands from 14point7. Figured I'd do this once vs add the second kater.

How are you gents wiring in the 12v power? I see they want the o2 powered only when engine is running. Can I just wire to key on and don't hesitate when I start the car, or do I really need to wire them on after engine starts?

Stock location bungs are fine? These have and LED output to indicate too hot or cold, but I'm hoping factory location is fine.

Since I have my stock h pipe in for now, can they go behind the pre cats or do I need to wait until I swap on my high flow bassani catted pipe?

a91what · May 6, 2019

Alot of guys wire the O2 in on the factory harness....
I have never had a problem with them being powered on at the same time the ECU is. Or if you want you can use an output from the ecu to trigger a relay to turn them on.. overkill imo

Mustang5L5 · May 6, 2019

Wasnt sure I could send them through the factory harness. But I guess it doesn't matter for 0-5v sensors.

Time to adjust my wiring diagrams and find some o2 sensor leads so I can plug direct into the factory harness

a91what · May 6, 2019

Yeah just use the power and ground on the factory harnes for the O2 then send the signals back on the 2 original O2 input wires.
If you need clarification I think I can pull up a diagram for you.

Mustang5L5 · May 7, 2019

Seems simple enough. Where to mount the controllers though. Can they take heat or should I wire in leads long enough to locate them up in the bay or fender wells?

EDIT:

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