Mustang5L5 DIY MS3x Thread

[stanglx2002]

That's it

You only need the one wideband for tuning purposes, and did just as you mentioned left one of the narrowbands in the H-Pipe to "block" the hole.

 

[a91what]

or since you are MS3X running full sequential.... you could opt to buy 2 spartan2 WB controllers and wire both of them to the MS... you can then tell the MS which cylinders to reference each WB with.. this will allow you to trim fuel from each bank independently.
MS3 has some very advanced features... once you have each bank trimmed correctly you could then move the WB to each cylinder and trim them also... but for the average person this is OVERKILL to the max.

link to my suggested WB controller. they are very affordable have great reviews and you can buy the O2 sensors at the auto-parts store.
https://www.14point7.com/products/spartan-lambda-controller-2

for 250 you can get 2 of these with sensors = WIN

 

[Mustang5L5]

But is 2 WBs a "need to have" or a "nice to have"?

Not opposed to it just wondering if it overly complicated and steepens my learning curve, or not really.

 

[stanglx2002]

Its a nice to have and can be added in the future if you desire to go that route. Most of us only run 1 wideband including myself

 

[Mustang5L5]

Well, decided to dig in.



Not really all that hard. Everything is well labeled. It's pretty much an adult version of paint by numbers.

There's just a lot of numbers to paint.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Still plugging away. Resistors and diodes done and moving onto caps. Going to pause here to grab some IPA from work and clean the flux residue off.

Nothing really hard so far. Just take your time. I have about 2 hrs into it so far. Almost relaxing to do

 

[Mustang5L5]

About 3.5 hrs into it. No issues. Home stretch on terms of soldering

 

[Blown88GT]

...What would it take to do PWM control on a e-fan?

It seems some mid/late 2000's volvos come with a PWM controller on the fan itself. Can probably find one easily in a junkyard, but here's a new one just as an example.

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=223053148290

Seems like a pretty simple setup in terms of wiring. Obviously the biggest question is how much current it can handle. I'm running an 95 V6 fan which is single speed only, and i've measured approx 25 amps continuous when running. I forget offhand the starting current but i can measure that.
Quick searching around, i see the Volvo models equipped with the above controller use a 60A fuse for the radiator fan.

Here's the vid

View: https://youtu.be/7y623OihCsU

Current handling capability is the biggest problem.
Continuous amps is not the issue, look at startup amps, usually about 3X running current.
That's why he has a patent.
http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&Sect2=HITOFF&p=1&u=/netahtml/PTO/search-bool.html&r=10&f=G&l=50&co1=AND&d=PTXT&s1=7006762&OS=7006762&RS=7006762

BTW, how are you planning on using the Ford 60-pin on the MS3?
Are you going to stuff it into an EEC-IV box?
This is how Stinger does it.

 

[Mustang5L5]

BTW, how are you planning on using the Ford 60-pin on the MS3?
Are you going to stuff it into an EEC-IV box?
This is how Stinger does it.

I'm still debating how I am going to do that. I was originally planning on creating a plug and play harness out of a Rotunda 07-00081 or the DIYautotune break out board 60-pin, but the more I learn about this, the less wires i'll actually be using on the original 60pin.

I've got a few ideas based on what I want to do.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Motherboard done.

They have you run some tests at this point. I need to grab some low current fuses before proceeding but so far so good. Some of the smaller transistors were a PITA. The leads are close together, so a soldering iron with a thin tip is a must to get in there and not create solder bridges.

This will be a pause point for a few days. Just around 4 hrs total so far

 

[stanglx2002]

You have been quite quickly on this project...Awesome Job!

 

[Steel1]

I think your really going to like the MS3, awesome progress thread.

 

[Blown88GT]

Motherboard done.

They have you run some tests at this point. I need to grab some low current fuses before proceeding but so far so good. Some of the smaller transistors were a PITA. The leads are close together, so a soldering iron with a thin tip is a must to get in there and not create solder bridges.

This will be a pause point for a few days. Just around 4 hrs total so far

I just saw your post over on the Corral about the Volvo fan controller. I remember those, won't work with the MarkVIII or SN95 fans. Might work with yours.
If it doesn't work out, just get the DCC from Brian. Tell him I sent you. He doesn't get busy until the summer when he gets overloaded with orders.

BTW, he uses a green fuselink to connect the DCC to the battery. Do not use any old 60A fuse, it must be a slo-blow or a green fuselink.

You need a solder station. I had one like the guy in the Volvo fan controller video. The controller died & it wouldn't heat up. Bought a new Weller Solder Station & installed a "voltage regulator" in the old solder station. Doesn't give good heat control because the transformer is 24VAC & the controller only goes to 20VAC. It fit into the existing space using the existing hole in the case.
This is the new one. It can get into the tightest places.
Repaired a vintage stereo today. Had to de-solder pin lamps without touching the dial cord.

 

[Mustang5L5]

BTW, he uses a green fuselink to connect the DCC to the battery. Do not use any old 60A fuse, it must be a slo-blow or a green fuselink.

Thanks. I was just actually going to ask what type of overcurrebt protection will work best.

Going to play with that controller on a bench. If it doesn't work, DCC time

 

[Blown88GT]

I have an AC/DC current clamp meter. My testing confirmed Brian's.
105A without soft start, 65A with soft start.
It's only about 3 sec of high current, long enough to blow a normal fuse.
All motors are the same, AC, DC. Your house A/C compressor is labeled. LRA - Locked Rotor Amps.

 

[Mustang5L5]

That's it. Done. Just under 5 hrs. Of course I'm sure I'll be digging back in to tweak a few things (why I left cover off) , but it's been powered up and all the tests passed. Had correct voltage where it should be, and didn't where I shouldn't.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Also ordered the stims. Will allow me to test on the bench.

Here's the MS expansion card simulator


And 20 min later




The other half for the MS3 connector shows up Monday.

If you aren't familiar with these, they are basically a desktop engine. The mu feature various inputs and LEDs to play around with the ms3x on a bench and see if it does what you expect.

Here's how this one installs. The second unit plugs below and has connections for outputs and input pots.

 

[Mustang5L5]

And here's my next project once I familiarize myself a bit more with the programming and come up with my wiring scheme

I'll be cutting one end off this Rotunda 07-00081 harness that Steve sent me and soldering to the two DB37s that plug into the unit.



Of course there will be some additional wiring out of the ms3x that won't go through the 60-pin. Well cross that bridge when we come to it

 

[Mustang5L5]

Main simulator board showed up, so I built that.






So this will allow full simulation on a bench so I can test every input and output. Prob not a necessity, but I want to play around with this a tad to learn more.

You can see some of the various input connections here


As well as some of the potentiometers for things like rpm and tps

 

[Mustang5L5]

And with the expansion board, I would have inputs and outputs all on a bench for testing. So I can work on things like getting the VSS signal conditioned and reading properly on my bench ahead of time, vs under the car.

Or perhaps hooking up wheel speed sensors for traction control. Can test it on my bench with my spare spindles and abs sensors before hooking it up in the car