Build Thread Mustang5L5's Build Thread -

No pictures,

But decided to toss the speedo cable in the trash. It's been giving me fits. It's one of LMR's repop units, which i'm pretty sure is a repackaged PIONEER unit that is marked up heavily. The more I read the reviews, the more I see the similarities on the LMR unit. Either way, I've just found the 3rd cable I bought to be bad. The internal cable was too long requiring a trim, but it unravels slightly. It also melts easily. Not near the headers but down where the clips secure the cable to the body. Twice I've found it to be slightly melted there, which caused binding. SO I decided to chuck it in the trash...again.

Ended up buying a good used cable on ebay. OEM off supposedly a 1993 Mustang. Part number I cannot find though. it's PN F2ZF-9A820-BA. Google search shows nothing other than the last OEM cable used on the Mustang was F1ZZ-9A820-* The cable looks the same. Guess we'll find out if it works.

But yeah. I have more faith in a used cable (in good shape) over a crappy $14 pioneer cable. (or $30 if you buy at LMR)

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Anyway, prepping to start wiring the engine bay. Going to route the wires into the fender. WHy not right? Pretty much going to move everything other than what runs across the pinch weld, which will be relocated under the pinch. I haven't decided if i'll relocate the coil inside the fender, or leave it out in the engine bay and just have the plug for it come out from the fender.

Also going to delete the starter relay. I can because i'm using a mini-starter, so i'll be using a typical 40A automotive relay. I'll install a distribution block inside the fender, and wire off that. I'll prob need to extend some wires, and clean up other areas.

I need to reloom all the engine bay wiring, and thinking of using the DEI style loom for looks.

Also need to take one more trip under the car to do:

1. swap poly trans mount out for rubber
2. install speedo cable
3. install clutch cable
4. check driveline angles and verify proper shim of stiffler's x-member
5. finish installing the new brake line to the rear axle
6. install driveshaft
7. install bassani catted X-pipe
8. bolt up cat-back

After that, i can bleed the brakes and get ready to start the car up and see if this engine actually, you know....runs.

Once i's running and im sure everything is ok, i will be installing the cooling system and the ac stuff.


SO much to do, but i can see the light at the end of the tunnel

Also, noreaster hitting MA as we speak. Discovered I was low on gas for the snowblower, so I tapped into my reserves.

Good reference doc for later

Motorcraft pigtail replacement chart. Even lists replacement pin terminals.

Ok, back to the cruise control and the MM hydroboost pedal. I am an idiot.

spoke to MM. seems I missed a line in the directions.




So I wiggle my ass back under the dash. How I got in here I’ll never know but I got a pic. Yup....I just need to push the vac switch in a tad more. Oops.


In my defense, if I assembled this all outside of the car I would have seen it...but under the dash is pretty busy and I just couldn’t


so that’s it. My car should have fully functional factory cruise.

on to the next ....

Problem is if you search some of those part numbers in the pdf, the pricing on the harness is EXPENSIVE! Some were $50 or so, but the photos didn't match what was in the PDF.

My suggestion, before you go by the cheapest one you can find is maybe buy one from AMAZON that will allow returns/dropoff and make sure it's what you need first. Also, there are aftermarket equivalents. If you hop on rockauto and put the ford part number in, sometimes an aftermarket equivalent pops up.

Also, if you look at the connector itself, there is a ford P/N really small on it. If you search that, it will link you to a modern version OR the aftermarket one.

stanglx2002 said:

Rebuilding the ac compressor still?

Click to expand...

It's on my bench. I haven't made much progress yet though as trying to get a running engine first. But it's coming soon....

Junction block arrived. Seems like a fairly solid part. Should do the trick

Also, digging through my bins of Mustang parts, I found this.



I had this in my 03 GT back when El-glo was all the rage in the early 2000s. When I sold the car, I returned it to stock.

I was feeling nostalgic, so I hop on eBay and pick up an 01-04 cluster for $40 plus shipping.


and relived some memories during the install.

A 12v power supply later....


I’m gonna track down a wiring diagram and see if I can get some of the other lights to glow. Maybe I can program an arduino to send out signals and make the cluster somewhat “alive” and put it in my office.

I’ve been getting the feels for a clean 01-04 convertible. Either a 01 Cobra or a saleen. I’ve been saying that for a while now. I promised I wouldn’t buy a car until the fox is done

Cheapskate207 said:

I was recently looking at these. All the ones one Amazon looked super cheap. Thanks for posting this.

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i agree. They had terrible reviews and didn’t seem reliable. Lots of reports of the hardware galling.

I looked at this:


But with shipping it seemed too expensive for what it was.

Spent my lunch break in the garage. Got a few small things done.

Vac switch for the cruise on the brake pedal is adjusted and tested: It works. I should have fully functional OEM cruise now

Swapped out the junk aftermarket speedo cable for the used OEM cable I bought. I lubed the cable up, installed it, and then tested it with a drill. VERY smooth all the way up to 75MPH (the highest my drill will go). Glad to see ZERO speedo bounce at low speed. I also did confirm that the LMR $30 speedo cable is in fact a Pioneer CA3018 speedo cable. Found the part number on the cable. It still blows. This was my third. I have more faith now in a good used cable vs another junk aftermarket cable.

Got the windshield motor mounted. I found the correct mounting screw. It's a Blunt sheet metal screw. 1/4-14 thread, by 1.25" long. I found some on Mcmaster that work, but not thrilled with the appearance so i'll likely look for a different screw. Still waiting on the wiring harness. USPS is slooooow. Maybe i'll try to find some rubber push caps to put on the heads of these screws.





Near the end, i'll likely source a wiper motor cover for this. It's a brand new FORD motor I paid $30 for. Pretty much identical to a SN95 motor. Bolted right up.

Up next is to get back under the car. Need to switch out the trans mount, install the speedo and clutch cable from below, and measure the pinion angle. I still have to install the rear part of the intermediate brake line I swapped out as well. It's in a tricky spot above the muffler so having trouble getting to it. Once all that's done, I can bleed the brakes, install the driveshaft and exhaust, and start wiring the engine bay.

What are the proper driveline specs?

I measure 1 degree difference from crank to driveshaft, and 2.3 degree difference for pinion angle

Wrapped up a few more things.

swapped out the trans mount to rubber.
speedo cable hooked up
All trans wiring hooked up
Clutch cable installed.
steering shaft adjusted for header clearance.
measures pinion angles ( see above)

the K-member makes it so roomy underneath


you can see the clutch cable routing is not ideal. I need to shorten the mount to pull it in closer to the rail. I figure I just cut and weld and that should do the trick.


header clearance is tight, but looks like this should be ok

5-wire harness for the new wiper motor arrived. $10/shipped, so I’m into this NEW Ford motor for $40. I’ll take it. ironically The only time I use my wipers is yearly inspection

really good link on measuring driveline angles.


Based on this info, I think I need to remove the 1 spacer from the Stifflers mount setup to drop my trans down very slightly.

JKWilson61 said:

FYI, Tremec has a great phone app called "Tremec Toolbox". One of the "tools" is a driveline angle finder. You use the phone to find three positions (engine or tailshaft angle, driveshaft angle and then pinion angle). You just click for each one when the phone is parallel to that item. When the last one is entered it checks to make sure you're good. If the total angle is bad it tells you which angle(s) you should adjust. It's free and in the app store.

Click to expand...

I actually did download the app and have it on my phone. I plan on using it, along with the new info I've learned the next time I have free time to crawl under the car.

According to prelim measurements, i think I need to remove the spacer on the trans mount and lower the back of the trans slightly.

Ok, measured and measured and I think this will do. I did hand calcs as well. I could probably lower the trans down slightly, but I’ll leave it as is for now and see if I actually have a vibration



Also, I cleaned up the thread a little. My threads seem to be looong, so I’m going to go along and actively clean up the off-topic stuff. I don’t mind it at all so don’t hesitate to go OT if you don’t mind me deleting it 3 months later.