Build Thread Mustang5L5's Build Thread -

[HotFox]

Looking good as always Mike! What did you end up using for brake fluid? I think I went to DOT 3 if I remember correctly. Everything was new/rebuilt and lines were blown out.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Looking good as always Mike! What did you end up using for brake fluid? I think I went to DOT 3 if I remember correctly. Everything was new/rebuilt and lines were blown out.

using this stuff. I’ve been using it in this car for well over 10 years.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Ok, exhaust issue was an easy fix. I slotted the holes. Not pretty, but got the job done.

Before

and after a hack of a time drilling. Not my best work, but it won’t be seen.

but that allowed me to move the hanger up a bit and allow the flanges to seat. I didn’t install the h-pipe yet. I have a question I need to answer first.

Also I took my own advice from another thread. Using mild steel 12pt on the collector to x-pipe connection with brass nuts

 

[Mustang5L5]

Played with the brakes a bit more. I removed the MC by unbolting and sliding forward and measured pushrod protrusion and mC bore depth. They were equal. So dead space isn’t the issue.

so I’ll email Baer on Mon and see what they say. This doesn’t feel like air. It’s 1-2” of empty travel, then a brick wall. Air in system had a progressive sponginess.

it’s been years since I’ve driven a hydroboost mustamg, so not sure if this is typical

Anyway...back on four wheels. I might work on engine wiring next

also, I plan on powdercoating the cobra intake soon. I’m still trying to pick a color

 

[Mustang5L5]

Well, looking at new cat-back exhaust setups. Mine is 20 years old, and while it’s in good shape, I think my exhaust is going to be too loud. Plus I think I might gain some power switching away from flowmasters. Seems like most of the cat-back setups these days are loud.

anyone run Borla Pro XS mufflers? I keep seeing they are quiet, but compared to what?

I’m thinking I keep my tailpipes and just swap the mufflers. These look like they will clamp on, but I also have my MIG if needed.

I also think I remember that the inlet tubes were available separate as well by some vender?

I want to keep my tailpipes because they are in excellent shape and the clear my panhard bar.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Here are the flow tubes in stainless. Hmm...this plan might work

 

[Specracer]

i have one. I don’t have a way to connect to the Baer MC

Have you called them to see if they make one for it? If not one of their flat adapters?

1119 - Large Round Universal Adapter

Universal brake bleeder adapter fits 1.5"–4.5" reservoirs on import, domestic, classic & marine vehicles. Secure, leak-proof clamp design for hassle-free bleeding.

www.motiveproducts.com

 

[Mustang5L5]

Fixed up the injector harness a bit. Replaced all the dried out tape and replaced some loom. Starting to work on all the wiring. I fully inspected each wire, and in my case my wires have all been in great shape

I can’t seem to recall where the o2 sensor (orange wire on left) ground connected to.

 

[Cheapskate207]

Looks good. I regret not doing that when I had my harness out.

my o2 sensor (orange wire) grounds to the firewall.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Have you called them to see if they make one for it? If not one of their flat adapters?

1119 - Large Round Universal Adapter

Universal brake bleeder adapter fits 1.5"–4.5" reservoirs on import, domestic, classic & marine vehicles. Secure, leak-proof clamp design for hassle-free bleeding.

www.motiveproducts.com

I'm emailing with them regarding bleeding this this as we speak. On my latest response, I asked about Motive Bleeder attachments. The BAER master has two separate compartments, so I would need to do the rear brakes and front brakes separately.

TBH, i'm not a fan of the motive bleeder. I've used it on a few of my cars and find it's good for fluid changes, but has never worked right when there is air in the system, like when replacing a caliper. I spent more time chasing air with the motive system and just get frustrated with it and bleed the brakes the old fashioned way.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Looks good. I regret not doing that when I had my harness out.

my o2 sensor (orange wire) grounds to the firewall.

Found a pic I took and this one. Mine went to the back of the head. Same place as the braided engine ground

 

[Mustang5L5]

And now this box of fun.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Ok. One of these colors is going on this intake next week.

it’s not red. That idea looked better in my mind

 

[Potomus Pete]

Closest to natural

 

[Rdub6]

Ok. One of these colors is going on this intake next week.

it’s not red. That idea looked better in my mind

Bottom right- vertical dark gray color card.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I actually have two picked out. I have a couple more swatches in the mail and then it’s go time

 

[Potomus Pete]

I would assume they are only getting more expensive..So you might as well make it natural. Nobody wants an off color on E Bay

 

[RaggedGT]

I vote for this one-

Not that you asked -

 

[Mustang5L5]

I would assume they are only getting more expensive..So you might as well make it natural. Nobody wants an off color on E Bay

You're assuming I would ever sell this. I won't be. It's been on my car 20 years, and it's going back on. I'd rather hang it on the wall than sell it on ebay.

Either way, Powdercoat can be stripped.

 

[WhiteCobra95]

I like the natural aluminum or silver (the top one) look because it will highlight the intake better. Plus, I prefer lighter colors for anything in the engine compartment. Lighter colors make it easier to see things that should or shouldn't be there and it's just brighter in general when working in there. For example, if you are looking for the source of dripping fluids or noises, lighter colors makes it a lot easier to spot mismatched mating surfaces or cracks. The downside is it shows when it's dirty, but it's a fair trade off. (I painted a long block black once and will NEVER make that mistake again!)