Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.
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Little more detail in the downtime before I can work on the car again. Here’s the difference in the tow hook reinforcement between fox and SN95 along with the sway bar mount.
it’s roughly placed where I will need to make my splice and sleeve.
it’s roughly placed where I will need to make my splice and sleeve.
Trimmed a bit more today. Ready to start fitting this in there.
I ended up removing the tow hook tie down reinforcement from both pieces. Now I can make my splice anywhere. The internal measurements are perfect for a piece of 2x2 square tubing, so I’ll cut up a 6” long piece, and use it as my internal sleeve and plug weld to it along with butt weld the rail.
Stopped for the weekend to pick up some tubing as wheel as to start grinding/sanding the surfaces before I start trimming it in.
I ended up removing the tow hook tie down reinforcement from both pieces. Now I can make my splice anywhere. The internal measurements are perfect for a piece of 2x2 square tubing, so I’ll cut up a 6” long piece, and use it as my internal sleeve and plug weld to it along with butt weld the rail.
Stopped for the weekend to pick up some tubing as wheel as to start grinding/sanding the surfaces before I start trimming it in.
Steel1
Mustang Master
Wow not much left of that side, it'll make you feel
pretty good to have all that new metal in there.
pretty good to have all that new metal in there.
I need to do a similar repair for both sides, I see you have like no wiring / anything in the engine bay. I really don't want to remove everything. Is there anyway I could unbolt everything in the way and pin the wires back then shroud them so they don't get melted / ruined?
They make fiberglass welding blankets of a few sizes. I have a few. When i'm ready to weld, everything gets draped in them other than the immediate area I am working on. You certainly don't need to remove anything except just to gain the access you need.
In my case, i'm redoing the entire engine bay with many new parts, so out everything came.
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Got my 2x2” square tubing. Looks like it will fit nicely. I believe this is 0.083” wall which is almost equal to the thickness of the rail. McMaster Carr p/n 6527K284
I’ll cut it to about 6-8” and use it as a splice for the front part of the rail. I’ll plug weld it, then but weld the rail. Having it inside will make it a nice beefy joint.
hoping to get at it Fri night or Sat to trim it into place and prep it all.
I’ll cut it to about 6-8” and use it as a splice for the front part of the rail. I’ll plug weld it, then but weld the rail. Having it inside will make it a nice beefy joint.
hoping to get at it Fri night or Sat to trim it into place and prep it all.
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- Jul 12, 2017
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Coming along nicely Mike. I feel pretty lucky I wont have to do that to my car. I almost kept my 90 Coupe, if I did, Id be right there with ya. It had rusted out rails, floors, etc. The GT I currently have didn't have any of that, so the Coupe had to go. I could have done it, planned on doing it, but that car wasn't special to me. I wanted something I could drive and work on at the same time. Plus my daughter came along right about the same time. It still would probably be torn down in my garage to this day. Are you going to be able to drive your car this year? Cant wait to see that motor you built back in it.
I honestly don’t know. All depends on how quick I can get the engine bay done. Need to fill the holes and paint. After that, I feel like it will go back together quick.
I do have a list if house projects I’m trying to get done as well. In two weekends I have a 12 foot, 4-panel slider I need to frame into my 3-season porch. It never ends.
I want to fire it up by fall. That’s my goal.
I do have a list if house projects I’m trying to get done as well. In two weekends I have a 12 foot, 4-panel slider I need to frame into my 3-season porch. It never ends.
I want to fire it up by fall. That’s my goal.
- Jul 12, 2017
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The joys of owning a home. Don't forget about your subframe connectors!
Ugh...forgot about those.
I also want an IRS.
Ugh...forgot about those.
I also want an IRS.
Start keeping your eyes open for wheels... You'll want a 9" wide rear with a +45 offset (6.75" BS) that also offers the front size you'll want if you want a 275 in the rear. Other than that, go for it!
I do want an aftermarket set of wheels. I have one in mind, but it will need to wait until i'm done to figure out such issues as IRS, or stick with solid axle.
Right now..lets get one thing done at a time. Lets get the engine back in the car first.
Right now..lets get one thing done at a time. Lets get the engine back in the car first.
negative... get as many projects going as possible so your car can remain on jackstands like it is supposed to.
Ok, it’s fitted in mostly.
still need to do some final tweaking, especially with trimming the tower to fit. The sheet metal is not 100% identical yhere.
but almost there. One thing I want to do is bolt to the k-member and verify it’s where it needs to be. The strut tower overkap doesn’t really give you much wiggle room But I just want to make sure everything aligned.
after that, I gott pull it all out and prep.
still need to do some final tweaking, especially with trimming the tower to fit. The sheet metal is not 100% identical yhere.
but almost there. One thing I want to do is bolt to the k-member and verify it’s where it needs to be. The strut tower overkap doesn’t really give you much wiggle room But I just want to make sure everything aligned.
after that, I gott pull it all out and prep.
You can see the difference in the tower sheet metal. I think the old tower has a couple protrusions I can cut out near the bottom to get this tighter. I also need to trim it for about a 1” overkap.
there are only 2 kits that I know Of
SN95 Rear Wing w/ Struts (99-04) Color Natural Width 12"
scottrodfab.com
And
1979-1993 Fox Body Mustang Frame Rails - LMR.com
Replace your rusted and damaged Fox Body frame rails with high-quality replacements from Late Model Restoration!
lmr.com
I used the first kit for the passenger side, and then used a donor rail from a 99-04 Mustang for drivers side.
I looked at your pics and can’t tell the extent of the rust. You really need to dissect it first and then pick which route to go
A little more work tonight. Getting the fit a bit tighter. Also started Trimming the 2x2 square tubing splice in. I’m mostly focusing on getting the fit around the strut tower tighter. It’s getting there.
The issue is where the vice grip is in the last pic along the strut tower. That slight overlap is causing me issues getting the tower to pull in tight enough to weld. Part of me wants to trim the overlap and stitch weld the butt weld, but another part of me things i can rebend that section to "take up the slack" so to speak. The big problem however is at the rear of the tower. The SN95 tower comes out a bit more, perhaps due to the car having hydroboost and not meeting any fancy intents for the vacuum booster like the pre-96 cars. My assumption. I'll figure it out....it's what I do. I just need to work the tower tighter and then i'm ready to start prep for weld.
The issue is where the vice grip is in the last pic along the strut tower. That slight overlap is causing me issues getting the tower to pull in tight enough to weld. Part of me wants to trim the overlap and stitch weld the butt weld, but another part of me things i can rebend that section to "take up the slack" so to speak. The big problem however is at the rear of the tower. The SN95 tower comes out a bit more, perhaps due to the car having hydroboost and not meeting any fancy intents for the vacuum booster like the pre-96 cars. My assumption. I'll figure it out....it's what I do. I just need to work the tower tighter and then i'm ready to start prep for weld.
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