Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

Mustang5L5 · Jun 12, 2020

A little more work and much tighter. I figure i can put a small slice in the two corners and bent the metal in and then weld it up there.

Mustang5L5 · Jun 12, 2020

However, ran into an issue. Decided to bolt to the k member to check fit. Pass side was perfect.

well that’s not good. Seems the donor rail is about 1/2” ahead of where it needs to be. Not sure I can draw that back due to how it locates against the existing strut tower. Hmmm...not good.

90sickfox · Jun 12, 2020

Is it a 1/2 inch on both sides ?

Mustang5L5 · Jun 12, 2020

90sickfox said:
Is it a 1/2 inch on both sides ?

No. Pass side bolts up fine. No issues there.

It's the driver's side, where the donor rail is. I need to push the rail back 1/2" into the firewall. However there's no way to do that given the contour of the strut tower. I don't see how I can get it back 1/2". It's also butt up against the firewall, so it's as far back as the original one was.

Mustang5L5 · Jun 12, 2020

Now, the stock K-member doesn’t have room to slot the mounting holes, but the MM k-member does. This is one solution that I slot the holes here 1/2” forward. It will get the job done, but it seems.....hack

Edit. Maybe not. That would put the bolt close to this upright

Mustang5L5 · Jun 12, 2020

Dammit, looks like there is a difference. The bolt holes on the fox are centered in the tower. The bolts holes on the donor piece appear to be offset forward about 1/2”.

what to do....

Hoytster · Jun 12, 2020

Is that donor rail out of a 95+?

if so, the mounting holes are different (about a 1/2" off from a foxbody IIRC)

Edit: You figured it out, nevermind

Hoytster · Jun 12, 2020

I personally would just modify that rail to move the mounting holes to where you want it. It will take a little work, but you have everything else fitted already.

Mustang5L5 · Jun 12, 2020

Hoytster said:
I personally would just modify that rail to move the mounting holes to where you want it. It will take a little work, but you have everything else fitted already.

I thought about that, but that would involve completely disassembling it, redilling the holes, and welding it all back up.

Vs slotting the holes in the K-member.

I realize one way is the correct way to do it, and one is taking a shortcut.....

Rdub6 · Jun 12, 2020

Can you get the new K-member welded solid, and then drill new holes in that, to match the donor rail?

General karthief · Jun 12, 2020

You know what you need to do so it's not a hack job.
I know it's easy to say but just do it right.

Mustang5L5 · Jun 12, 2020

General karthief said:
You know what you need to do so it's not a hack job.
I know it's easy to say but just do it right.

yup. Hate to say it but I know what I must do

off to drink some beer and think about it

Steel1 · Jun 12, 2020

Not sure if I'm looking at the pictures correctly but would heat help at all ?
Thinking if you had or could borrow some torches to heat the metal and move things around a bit.....just thinking out loud.

Steel1 · Jun 12, 2020

Forget the above idea just saw your post about the holes being off center.

90sickfox · Jun 12, 2020

Doesn't seem hard to move those holes. Top bracket from the old rail looks usable. Remove the top piece, take out the support, remove bolt sleeves, make plugs from scrap metal, weld them in, drill new holes, reinstall stuff, weld top piece on, and grind away. Easy peasy...lemon squeezy.

Mustang5L5 · Jun 13, 2020

90sickfox said:
Doesn't seem hard to move those holes. Top bracket from the old rail looks usable. Remove the top piece, take out the support, remove bolt sleeves, make plugs from scrap metal, weld them in, drill new holes, reinstall stuff, weld top piece on, and grind away. Easy peasy...lemon squeezy.

the more I stare at it, the more this seems like the way.

Mustang5L5 · Jun 14, 2020

Well this is gonna be easier than I thought. A few spot welds later and out comes the plate and the inner ring holding the two bolt supports. I know I touched upon this in the SN95 vs fox rust thread, but the inside of the SN95 rail is much simpler and more open in construction vs the fox rail.

I’m going to weld up the original holes, drill the new holes where I need them and fabricate the plate and bolt tubes from new stock.

as for the top plate? I may cheat and laser cut a new one...because I can

Mustang5L5 · Jun 14, 2020

Here’s the difference in hole locations.

I’ll weld up the originsl holes, and then drill where the new ones need to be. Then I’ll Fab up the plate that holds the bolt supports.

Mustang5L5 · Jun 14, 2020

And since I had garage time, I continued fitting up the donor piece. Fitting nice and tight now. Starting some prep.

95BlueStallion · Jun 14, 2020

You have the patience of a saint, and it will pay off in the end. Really nice work.

Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

I don't dare do that to my Knob

I don't dare do that to my Knob

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mustang Master

Mustang Master

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

My assy trans to myself

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