Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

GroverDill · Mar 14, 2010

Mike,

FYI go to performancepeddler.com
find the login link
type "clubgp" in the login box hit enter
search for part # 54956
notice $54.xx price

then dance.

Mustang5L5 · Mar 14, 2010

Hot damn. That is a good price! Thanks!

Mustang5L5 · Mar 15, 2010

Now here's an impulse buy...

Spied these on CL for peanuts. Guy happened to live right next door to my work. So i swung by and picked them up.

They aren't in bad shape, but I don't need windows, so they won't be going on my car...but at least I can practice refinishing on them so I can do my own windows. I feel more comfy trying it out on these first vs my own windows. After that, who knows what I'll do with them.

(bottom window is just wet from cleaning)

Mustang5L5 · Mar 27, 2010

Okay guys, sadly this may be the last update I make for a while. I got my condo, closing date set in April. No garage though.

Anyway, i had $200 in summit cards, so i bought a Steeda Tri-ax shifter with it. Honestly, i prefer the MGW shifter...but the shifter was basically a gift so i can't complain. Later on, i may be interested in traded for an MGW if anyone is crazy enough to do that.

Also, don't get the "comfort performance" version. Summitt is fuzzy on the description, and basically it's a tri-ax with a HUGE handle for comfort! Luckily I had a short handle that is prob the same as the normal tri-ax handle. So i used that.

Throws are short, but MGW throws are much shorter.

Also, won't be putting tires on those 03/04 GT rims i bought. Need tires on the daily driver G35..so gotta take care of priorities. I'm now a single guy with a mortgage....so I gotta eliminate some expenses. Stang may only see the road for a few months this year because of that...hey better than selling it right?

Mustang5L5 · Apr 25, 2010

Well, i haven't been on the boards much lately. Finally closed. Here's the new most expensive thing I own. It's a 4 year old building, and my unit is a foreclosure that has been empty for 3 years. I pretty much stole it. There's a gym inside, but no pool. Doesn't really matter as i don't swim much and there is the atlantic ocean out front after all.

I won't be keeping the Mustang here even though i have underground covered parking. Salt air is just tough on cars.

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(i'll take these pics down after a week or so...this is a Mustang-related thread so i don't want to clutter it)

Mustang5L5 · May 30, 2010

Okay, so back to the stang.

Got around to checking out a few things. First off, I checked the vacuum to verify clogged cats. Vac test came back okay, have 20 inhg at idle and cruise. No drop in vacuum. So cats are fine. I am running a stock h pipe believe it or not, reason I don't have an aftermarket is because I cant decide if I want long tubes or standard plus the magna flow pipe I want was discontinued.

So I ran the codes.

Koeo. 11
Cm. 11
Koer. Got a code 91

Quick scan says system lean, but doesn't go into much detail. So time to do some searching and find out how to correct this.

Btw, I picked up a stock lx wing off cl. Doing some light sanding to fix some scratches in the paint and then gonna have it painted. Bye bye saleen wing.

Mustang5L5 · May 30, 2010

Found a good thread for my code 91 problem

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/762521-code-41-91-a.html

Mustang5L5 · Jun 6, 2010

Thanks!

So I fixed my code 91. Got a new ford o2 off rock auto for 38 bucks plus ship. I love that site.

Swapped the o2 and code 91 is gone. Car feels better. Was gonna take it for the first ride of the season but some stony thunderstorms rolled through.

Mustang5L5 · Jun 20, 2010

fivespeedsteed said:
if you get bored think you can pm me your efan setup? parts list, how to wire it in, ect.? thanks man. .

Sorry, i just saw this now. I'll PM you when i get a chance...but i'm gonna be changing it up a little soon. Just need to decide on what controller to go with.

Update now...i'm "undoing" a few of my mistakes.

Picked up some 03/04 Mach 1 springs. Thought they were bullitt springs but after running the p/n they are Mach springs. So they won't drop about 1/4" as much as the bullitt springs. I HATE my FMS C springs. It's not so much the ride, as it is the height. They slammed my car and there is little suspension travel and the nose is just too low. I'd rather have a comfortable ride and enjoy the car than for it to look sweet but ride like ass. So these will be going in shortly. I have adjustable arms in the rear, but I am thinking of not running isolators up front just to get a tiny bit more drop and then even it up with the adjustable arms out back. Anyone have comments about not running isolators just up front? Concerned about NVH?? but then again it is a 22-year old fox.

I also picked this up. stock LX wing. Bye Bye Saleen shopping cart wing! OEM =

Mustang5L5 · Aug 8, 2010

So I got around to changing out the rear springs.

With adjustable lcas it's a 30 mins job. First, lower lca to lowest position. Then place rear subframe on jack stands. Then unbolt and lower one side of axle first by unbolting shock. Then swap spring. Didn't even have to take the tires off and only had to remove one bolt.

Spring height was exactly the same between rear c springs and rear Mach 1 springs. In fact, when installed and my lcas adjusted, the car height was the same. Ride is pretty much the same...maybe a little less softness in transition turns.

Spring rates are

Ford c springs

Front 650 lb/in linear
Rear 200-300 lb/in progressive

Mach 1
Front 600 lb/in linear
Rear 250 lb/in linear

So not much change, but will be nice to pick the front up a bit and get some strut travel back. I will install fronts without isolators....soon.

Mustang5L5 · Aug 29, 2010

Okay. Got around to putting the Mach 1 front springs in. What a PITA!!

None of the damn spring compressors I bought or rented worked. The c springs I had were right on the edge of not requiring a compressor, but the machs were 1 inch taller.

In the end, after much swearing and trying to get the compressors to work....I used a method I swore I'd never use....I used hose clamps. 10 clamps around and just went around slowly tightening it up. Got just enough squeeze to fit it in the perch. I chose to install with no isos up front just to take It down a tad. I spoke with a number of people who removed isos and notice no difference in ride quality, so I choose to go that route.

Anyway, I still don't recommend the hose clamp method and prob would never tell someone to do it....but after swearing for 3 hours, it did the job in 10 mins.

Still gptta put the brakes and sway bar and stuff back on before I get it on the ground. Pics soon.

Mustang5L5 · Aug 30, 2010

SVT32VDOHC said:
I could hear you swearing over here in Michigan!!!

lol, i'm sure you did. I messed with one side for 3 hours trying to get that damn spring in....that;'s just spring time. Doesn't include the time pulling the brakes and other parts off and removing the C spring. None of the compressors worked and the internal compressor i had would not come out after i put the spring in. I almost just cut the damn thing to get it out, but didn;t want to waste the $40 i paid for it.

3 hours later i said screw it, went to home depot, bought 10-15 4" hose clamps, and clamped the sucker. I didn't use a compressor, just went around and tightened them up and it sucked the spring in just enough to work. Didn't even really feel unstable. Yeah yeah, i know...it's unsafe....but it was quick and easy. I had the spring installed 10 mins after starting to strap!

BTW, the Ford racing C springs require no compressor to install either. With full isos, you cna push them into the perches with little force and then jack the arm up..

greensvt21 said:
I remember years ago seeing the Ford spring compressor designed to fit inside there. that would be nice tool to have if it could be found easy enough. Dez racing was doing some stuff to my car so i had them pop in the fronts while it was there and save me the trouble. Mike went with Machs over the Bullitts, how are they ? I'll have to compare someday.

OTC makes a tool, but i couldn't find anywhere to rent it and it's $250 new. Didn't want to pay. Got the springs in. Amazingly after figuring out the method, i got the other side done 2 hours from pulling lugnuts off to retorquing the wheel on.

Got the car down on all 4 wheels today. I like the decision to leave the isos out up front. Off the jackstands, i measure 26" even from ground to fenderlip. I was at 25" before with the C springs. Maybe they will settle a bit more after a day or two with weight on them. I have my rears set at 26.5" right now.

The car rides better. I actually can turn now up front! No more rubbing when i crank the wheel. I didn't go for a real ride though so cant compare at speeds more than 20MPH yet. No pics either as i lost the light. Will get some after Hurrican Earl possibly hits.

Now time to list the C springs on CL for some more mod money!

Mustang5L5 · Sep 5, 2010

I did, but I don't think it would have helped me. Great idea though I should prob order one just to have.

To be honest, if I ever do springs again, I'll use the band method. Was easy.

I've been driving on the combo for three days now. Sorry no pics, I always leave the camera at home when I go take the car for a spin. I have to tweak the rear ride height. I set them set pretty much the same height and then found out the rear fender is 1/2 over the front...so I need to raise the rear a tad with the adjustable control arms.

The ride is nice. Feels so good to hit a bump and have suspension travel! Rough roads feel nicer and it really doesn't feel like I lost much handling ability. The Mach springs are still stiff.

Oh yeah I gained my turning radius back!

Pics when I can...prob take a few tomorrow.

Mustang5L5 · Sep 6, 2010

Okay, here are pics. Car is dirty, havent had a chance to wash it.

Uncut Mach 1 springs up front, no isolators (still rides softer than C's with isos). Mach 1 rears with full isos and adjustable rear arms controlling rear height.

Could use a tiny bit lower up front. Might trim off 2" or so of spring lenght next time to see if i can get it down maybe 1/4-1/2". Ride height is 26.25"to both front fenders.

Mustang5L5 · Sep 6, 2010

Front wheel height change.

C springs w/isos

Mach 1 springs w/o isos

Mustang5L5 · Sep 6, 2010

And front spring visible difference.

C spring on left, Mach 1 spring on right

C spring 650 lbs linear
Mach spring 600 lbs linear

You can notice the C spring is shorter, but has fatter coils and more of them

Mustang5L5 · Nov 15, 2010

Car is down for the winter...so time to start doing things again!

Put my gauges back in. Said i was going to do them under the radio, but couldn't convince myself i could actually see them. Also, you can see my cowl mounted fuel pressure gauge and the new shift light i installed.

I put the boost gauge in temporarily because i wanted to see how my vacuum behaves how i drive. The only one who is gonna see it is me...so why not it it does what I need it to do. I ran the line for the oil pressure gauge and when all done, will swap them out.

Also, you can see where i mounted the control box for the shift light. Using the 3K pill for now for daily driving...but have the 5000-6000 RPM pill kit

Mustang5L5 · Jan 18, 2011

Okay, more stuff for my AC reinstall.

Friend gave me his compressor. He recently took it off his car which had a working R-12 system. Dumb, i know, but he's making a race car. Unfortunately i already had everything else new, so i couldn't take his entire setup. But good working compressor full of oil and freshly removed. Will clean it up, paint it and then seal up the ports until I do my install.

I also bought a new evaporator core. My current core has been sitting open for 8 years. i didn't want to take a chance even though a solvent flush might save it. I figure with an all new A/C system, I don't want to take the chance. Tried to get a Motorcraft unit, but no longer made. I've found new Evaps were in the $60-70 range. 4 seasons makes them P/N 54531. Found one for $25 new, figured why not. I got it, opened it up and the BEST part was on the bottom it was stamped "Motorcraft"

So maybe i scored because if you google the p/n they are all $60+ new. It came in a 4 seasons box, but the part has MOTORCRAFT stamped on the bottom...for $25 new? Not gonna complain

Of course...now i gotta pull the dash *again* to install it

Mustang5L5 · Jan 18, 2011

In addition, i already had these parts. Got these about a year ago when rockauto.com was closing out it's Motorcraft A/C stuff. Think i paid about $80 for all 3 lines.

All Brand new Motorcraft A/C stuff

Accumulator and line
orifice line
return line

Of course, i also have the brackets and such to mount the compressor. Friend is gonna sandblast them and i'll paint them up.

All i need is a condensor, and ther stupid bracket that holds the accumulator bottle on. Gonna get new. Can't find a motorcraft unfortunately.

Mustang5L5 · Feb 26, 2011

Change of plans. The 6-disk Mach 460 ended up being a huge pita to wire up.

Going for something a little more plug and play. Had the console out so I can fill and paint the radio mount holes

As for what's going underneath it...haven't made my mind up yet. Always thought the cubby was wasted space

Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

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