Eh, I ordered the inner plastic and door panel sound deadened from LRS. It was on sale. Meh
Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.
- Thread starter Mustang5L5
- Start date
- Status
eBay snag.
I have alerts out for various NOS parts and such and if something is cheap I'll snag it up for my car or to save. I prefer all Ford parts on my car if I can avoid Chinese junk
I can see a "1993" mold date on it
I currently have a LRS repro on my car that actually looks fairly good minus not having the foam.
I have alerts out for various NOS parts and such and if something is cheap I'll snag it up for my car or to save. I prefer all Ford parts on my car if I can avoid Chinese junk
I can see a "1993" mold date on it
I currently have a LRS repro on my car that actually looks fairly good minus not having the foam.
Ok, drivers door done!
Window guide bushings...not a bad job. But those two plastic clips make a huge difference! Window was much more stable after I changed them out. Had to run out for some grease for the rod so the window could move easily again.
Run channel molding? A bit trickier than the video makes it seem, especially in the front of the door. In hindsight, I should have left mine alone. The LRS run channel is ok quality but the fit is not perfect.
It's a job that takes you forever the first time but you can breeze through the second time...I know cuz o had to do it twice.
After getting it in, I was all set to write LRS a nasty gram. Look at this fit
It looked like crap, and I spent a good hour wrestling it before I realized...
I had the wrong side!
Of course, second time around took me 10 mins to do. Fit was better, but not perfect. Biggest complaint now is the window struggles that last 1/2" or so to seat. Not sure it's fully seated either. I'm sure it will get better as the mollding wears with use. My window motor probably could be changed out too, but I'd rather not if I don't have to.
Overall, I should have done bushings and called it a day. I may leave the other side alone and just do bushings and general window adjustment.
Window guide bushings...not a bad job. But those two plastic clips make a huge difference! Window was much more stable after I changed them out. Had to run out for some grease for the rod so the window could move easily again.
Run channel molding? A bit trickier than the video makes it seem, especially in the front of the door. In hindsight, I should have left mine alone. The LRS run channel is ok quality but the fit is not perfect.
It's a job that takes you forever the first time but you can breeze through the second time...I know cuz o had to do it twice.
After getting it in, I was all set to write LRS a nasty gram. Look at this fit
It looked like crap, and I spent a good hour wrestling it before I realized...
I had the wrong side!
Of course, second time around took me 10 mins to do. Fit was better, but not perfect. Biggest complaint now is the window struggles that last 1/2" or so to seat. Not sure it's fully seated either. I'm sure it will get better as the mollding wears with use. My window motor probably could be changed out too, but I'd rather not if I don't have to.
Overall, I should have done bushings and called it a day. I may leave the other side alone and just do bushings and general window adjustment.
I ended up playing with it some more tonight and did take that piece off. I think I've gotten it much better by playing with the corners where the widow from meets the door. Now maybe the last 1/2" of travel is slow, but it does close all the way. I'm happy with that.
I'll try some silicone spray in the grooves to help it slide better, but I think I've gotten it the best it's going to go.
I may not replace the other side. The drivers side one wasn't all that bad to begin with. Window bushings and an adjustment might be all I need
Oh and a door actuator on that side. It's dead.
Once I wrap this up, time to finish my
MAF conversion
Silicone spray did the trick.
A few sprays in the channel, especially where the window frame meets the door did it. Now the window slides up and down all the way with a nice, satisfying, thud as it reaches full travel without slowing down.
This window hasn't been this solid since the car was new.
A few sprays in the channel, especially where the window frame meets the door did it. Now the window slides up and down all the way with a nice, satisfying, thud as it reaches full travel without slowing down.
This window hasn't been this solid since the car was new.
So the LRS vapor barrier and door card sound deadener showed up finally.
The vapor barrier is a much thicker plastic than the oem garbage bag, and the sound deadener is thicker than the oem garbage bag with fuzzy crap stuck to one side.
Now to actually see if the install is as easy as the LRS videos make it out to be.
Tracing my outline to pre-spray with some 3M adhesive spray
I don't know how effective it will be. I tried wrapping it around my head but I could still hear my wife yelling at me
The vapor barrier is a much thicker plastic than the oem garbage bag, and the sound deadener is thicker than the oem garbage bag with fuzzy crap stuck to one side.
Now to actually see if the install is as easy as the LRS videos make it out to be.
Tracing my outline to pre-spray with some 3M adhesive spray
I don't know how effective it will be. I tried wrapping it around my head but I could still hear my wife yelling at me
Ok wasn't too bad. 3M super 90 spray adhevise sets up fast.
Vapor barrier was a bit tricky to line up the holes. A few spots had bends and wouldn't stick, but overall it's on there. I'll cut out the holes for push pins tomorrow
Door card insulation was easy. All of two minutes.
Ran out of time tonight so I'll install the door panel tomorrow. Got all new push pins for that.
So to recap my progress overall on this door:
Fixed map pocket
New speaker grill
New window bushings
New run channel
New vapor barrier
New door sound insulation
New window switch plate
New Ford OEM window/door switch
Adjusted/lubricated window track
Adjusted/lubricated power mirror
New belt moulding
New door weatherstrip
original door lock actuator and window motor work fine so they stayed put
Vapor barrier was a bit tricky to line up the holes. A few spots had bends and wouldn't stick, but overall it's on there. I'll cut out the holes for push pins tomorrow
Door card insulation was easy. All of two minutes.
Ran out of time tonight so I'll install the door panel tomorrow. Got all new push pins for that.
So to recap my progress overall on this door:
Fixed map pocket
New speaker grill
New window bushings
New run channel
New vapor barrier
New door sound insulation
New window switch plate
New Ford OEM window/door switch
Adjusted/lubricated window track
Adjusted/lubricated power mirror
New belt moulding
New door weatherstrip
original door lock actuator and window motor work fine so they stayed put
Last edited:
Door panel on. New clips, and every screw nice and tight. This door really is so much tighter now. Feels solid when I close it even with window half up. I don't even remember it feeling this good in a decade or two
For comparison, pass door now feels loose and rattles. But it's next
And these panels look so much better when the map pockets don't sag
For comparison, pass door now feels loose and rattles. But it's next
And these panels look so much better when the map pockets don't sag
Thoughts?
Front and rear? Would break up the all-black look. Short of finding a set of Recaros/Flofits, I think this might give me the comfort i want with a bit more bolster. Not like i'm going autoXing anytime soon.
I would do this to a set of 87-89 GT high back (26") seats, but add my halo headrests to the seat. I always hated how the 24" seats of the 1990-later cars stopped around my shoulderblades.
Front and rear? Would break up the all-black look. Short of finding a set of Recaros/Flofits, I think this might give me the comfort i want with a bit more bolster. Not like i'm going autoXing anytime soon.
I would do this to a set of 87-89 GT high back (26") seats, but add my halo headrests to the seat. I always hated how the 24" seats of the 1990-later cars stopped around my shoulderblades.
it....I bought myself an Xmas gift.I fell in love with the dark red/black w/halos when I saw that pic. Price shopping the various sites, and wouldn't you know it...CJ pony parts has a clearance on a set of the exact same combo I wanted WITH the pony logo for $550. This kit is actually for an 85-86GT with halo headrests.
Ironically, if you price out the kit for the 87-89GT seats, it's $1100 optioned out the same way.
Pretty sure the 85-86 seats are 26" high backs like the 87-89 GTs. Either way, since it was on clearance I had to jump. Almost 50% off.
I don't actually have front seats yet. Chasing some local leads. Need to 100% verify the 84-89 sport seat is the same 26" high back frame. If not, no big deal i'll grab some 85-86 seats.
Since my SN95 seats are pretty mint, I can recoop a lot of this cost back provided I don't pay a premium on a set of front fox seats.
Last edited:
Ripped my pass door panel apart last night. Took the mirror off and found one of the gears was stripped out, which is why it wasn't moving in one direction.
Made this thread to detail my repair. I figure this could help someone in the future if they decide to refurb their mirrors like I am.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/power-mirror-rebuild.901292/
This weekend, i'll do the window bushings, run channel molding (I decided to do it) and change out the door lock actuator. I'm also going to try and run all my Mass-air swap wiring and have it ready to go in the pass kick panel area. I need to repin my O2 harness first as I'm going AOD ecu to A9L
Made this thread to detail my repair. I figure this could help someone in the future if they decide to refurb their mirrors like I am.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/power-mirror-rebuild.901292/
This weekend, i'll do the window bushings, run channel molding (I decided to do it) and change out the door lock actuator. I'm also going to try and run all my Mass-air swap wiring and have it ready to go in the pass kick panel area. I need to repin my O2 harness first as I'm going AOD ecu to A9L
I haven't decided what i'll actually do with it. I've seen a few pics online of non-dealer prepped Fox bodies with the antenna still in the wrapper (as seen above) in the trunk/hatch.
I rarely listen to the radio when I drive, so the original antenna just lives in the hatch. I'll probably squirrel the NOS one away
I rarely listen to the radio when I drive, so the original antenna just lives in the hatch. I'll probably squirrel the NOS one away
Yup. I cut a lumbar plug off a fox body seat, and then cut the power harness from an SN95 that used that track at the junkyard and soldered them together and made an adapter harness. Plugged it in and it all worked.
Honestly it made no difference in height over the fox tracks it originally had. If anything I can tilt the front up now and I gives my legs a bigger bend and let's me sit closer
Seats are still in great shape. I've driven maybe 800 miles since I bought them from you.
Pass seat still looks new
Honestly it made no difference in height over the fox tracks it originally had. If anything I can tilt the front up now and I gives my legs a bigger bend and let's me sit closer
Seats are still in great shape. I've driven maybe 800 miles since I bought them from you.
Pass seat still looks new
Last edited:
So here's the donor rear seat. Total cost under $100 (since I didn't have a fox seat to begin with) 87/89 tweed bottom, and some 92 4cyl seat backs. The seat bottom cleaned up real nice. I might save the cover and if anyone needs it, PM me. Too nice to toss in trash
The foam under the 4cyl seats is the same as the 5.0. It just lacks the extra crease near the top on the fabric like the 5.0 seats.
The 84-86 cars actually have a fabric pattern similar to the 87-93 2.3l. The cebter section and outer panel is the same material, while on the 87-93 Sport seats, only the cebter is the dissimilar material
Since i ordered an 85-86 GT set, curious to see how the fabric layout is.
Anyway. Breakdown is easy. Watch the LRS video a few times and it's a breeze. Just need to save the listing rods from the old fabric
Now the dilemma. The TMI kit does not have rear seat back carpet.
So, do I dye this? It's kinda matted and stained a tad? Or do I pony up $90-120 for a new hatch carpet and seat carpets?
I'd fabricate one if it didn't have that vinyl seam sewed into the bottom edge. Remember...I need OEM fit/finish. Off to give it a bath.
The foam under the 4cyl seats is the same as the 5.0. It just lacks the extra crease near the top on the fabric like the 5.0 seats.
The 84-86 cars actually have a fabric pattern similar to the 87-93 2.3l. The cebter section and outer panel is the same material, while on the 87-93 Sport seats, only the cebter is the dissimilar material
Since i ordered an 85-86 GT set, curious to see how the fabric layout is.
Anyway. Breakdown is easy. Watch the LRS video a few times and it's a breeze. Just need to save the listing rods from the old fabric
Now the dilemma. The TMI kit does not have rear seat back carpet.
So, do I dye this? It's kinda matted and stained a tad? Or do I pony up $90-120 for a new hatch carpet and seat carpets?
I'd fabricate one if it didn't have that vinyl seam sewed into the bottom edge. Remember...I need OEM fit/finish. Off to give it a bath.
So I got some free time today to bang out the passenger door.
Window guide bushings were junk.
Might be why that window rattled so much.
Next up, door lock actuator. I did not drill out the rivet. I just removed the lock from the white clip in the door. Wasn't too hard. Swapped in actuator and it sucks. It's weak. It actually works better on the pass side switch. If I press the drivers switch I need to hold it to give it s little extra time. It's a Daniel carpenter reproductions actuator. It sucks. I might have to spring for a Ford NoS unit on eBay one of these days.
Oh yeah, this might be why my original failed and seized up
I did change the run channel. I said I wouldn't but it was dry and cracked. Anyway, whoever told me about silicone spray, I owe you a beer. With my prior knownledge from the drivers side, and the silicone spray lube, I was able to swap the channel in 20 mins and have it work the first time I rolled the window up. Much better! I'm happy about that.
I'd say almost 2 hrs start to finish. Just need the mirror motor to show up so I can put that in before putting the door panel on.
Oh, I also spent 3 hours building this lego table for the kids for Xmas that will roll under the bed. Just need to stain it, glue the panels and a few little odds and ends on it.
Tmi seat kit didn't show up yet. Was supposed to come Sat but UPS never showed up. My hog ring pliers and hog rings show up tomorrow too. It's go time
Window guide bushings were junk.
Might be why that window rattled so much.
Next up, door lock actuator. I did not drill out the rivet. I just removed the lock from the white clip in the door. Wasn't too hard. Swapped in actuator and it sucks. It's weak. It actually works better on the pass side switch. If I press the drivers switch I need to hold it to give it s little extra time. It's a Daniel carpenter reproductions actuator. It sucks. I might have to spring for a Ford NoS unit on eBay one of these days.
Oh yeah, this might be why my original failed and seized up
I did change the run channel. I said I wouldn't but it was dry and cracked. Anyway, whoever told me about silicone spray, I owe you a beer. With my prior knownledge from the drivers side, and the silicone spray lube, I was able to swap the channel in 20 mins and have it work the first time I rolled the window up. Much better! I'm happy about that.
I'd say almost 2 hrs start to finish. Just need the mirror motor to show up so I can put that in before putting the door panel on.
Oh, I also spent 3 hours building this lego table for the kids for Xmas that will roll under the bed. Just need to stain it, glue the panels and a few little odds and ends on it.
Tmi seat kit didn't show up yet. Was supposed to come Sat but UPS never showed up. My hog ring pliers and hog rings show up tomorrow too. It's go time
So UPS is hilarious.
Ordered the TMI kit Thurs AM. Shipped same day (kudos to CJ pony parts) and tracking shows delivery set for Sat. I see it arrives at the ups center in my town late Friday evening. Hot damn ups, that's a record.
I check tracking sat and "out for delivery" all day.
Doesn't show up. Sunday goes by. I check this am and it's again "out for delivery" expected today. Doesn't show up.
I call. Long story short..if the sender sends it regular 5 day ground...they aren't in a rush to deliver it early.
Tomorrow is 5 days. Damn you UPS. I swear I saw the truck drive by a couple times.
No luck procuring front seats this weekend locally. I put a post on local FB groups and got plenty of offers, but none actually followed through. This is why I like eBay. I want item, I hit button, I pay money, you send part. Dealing with people...sucks.
Ordered the TMI kit Thurs AM. Shipped same day (kudos to CJ pony parts) and tracking shows delivery set for Sat. I see it arrives at the ups center in my town late Friday evening. Hot damn ups, that's a record.
I check tracking sat and "out for delivery" all day.
Doesn't show up. Sunday goes by. I check this am and it's again "out for delivery" expected today. Doesn't show up.
I call. Long story short..if the sender sends it regular 5 day ground...they aren't in a rush to deliver it early.
Tomorrow is 5 days. Damn you UPS. I swear I saw the truck drive by a couple times.
No luck procuring front seats this weekend locally. I put a post on local FB groups and got plenty of offers, but none actually followed through. This is why I like eBay. I want item, I hit button, I pay money, you send part. Dealing with people...sucks.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
