Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.
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So just posting myself some reference material for the future. Nothing set in stone...thinking out loud type of stuff.
Explorer 5.0 engine wiring. Looks like both coils are powered by a single 25a fuse also feeding the PCM relay in the explorer. I may split this as the wiring connector I bought is rated for 13A per pin. I'd have to add a 2nd noise cap to the separate power wire and just 4 wires back to the MS.
So, if I install a fuse block on the driver side, i'll need 3 wires to feed from it.
2 power wires for the coil
1 wire from the MS to trigger fan relay
So my thinking is to run a 10-pin wiring harness from the ECU area through the firewall, and out to the area under the MAF. Or I'd route the 10-pin to the rear of the intake near where the salt-and-pepper shakers are and then route my coil/crank/cam wiring under the plenum along the IAC and to the various components.
Here's how I'd wire
4 wires for coil
2 wires for VR crank sensor
2 wires for VR cam sensor (96-98 used 3-wire hall, 99-01 was 2-wire VR
1 wire for the fan trigger to pass through the coil harness over to the fuse block on the driver's side.
That's 9 wires and a spare. My thinking is with the Break-out-box connecting the MS to the factory ECU harness, I can reuse most of the factory wiring for misc sensors and controlling the TAB and Evap purge solenoids. I'm probably not going to build this harness until I have MS inhand and probably install with a TFI dist first and get up and running.
AM I missing some additional wiring I'm overlooking?
Explorer 5.0 engine wiring. Looks like both coils are powered by a single 25a fuse also feeding the PCM relay in the explorer. I may split this as the wiring connector I bought is rated for 13A per pin. I'd have to add a 2nd noise cap to the separate power wire and just 4 wires back to the MS.
So, if I install a fuse block on the driver side, i'll need 3 wires to feed from it.
2 power wires for the coil
1 wire from the MS to trigger fan relay
So my thinking is to run a 10-pin wiring harness from the ECU area through the firewall, and out to the area under the MAF. Or I'd route the 10-pin to the rear of the intake near where the salt-and-pepper shakers are and then route my coil/crank/cam wiring under the plenum along the IAC and to the various components.
Here's how I'd wire
4 wires for coil
2 wires for VR crank sensor
2 wires for VR cam sensor (96-98 used 3-wire hall, 99-01 was 2-wire VR
1 wire for the fan trigger to pass through the coil harness over to the fuse block on the driver's side.
That's 9 wires and a spare. My thinking is with the Break-out-box connecting the MS to the factory ECU harness, I can reuse most of the factory wiring for misc sensors and controlling the TAB and Evap purge solenoids. I'm probably not going to build this harness until I have MS inhand and probably install with a TFI dist first and get up and running.
AM I missing some additional wiring I'm overlooking?
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- Jul 12, 2017
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Yes.... 4 spare wires for when you decide you want individual cylinder control. Plan ahead.
Good call. I will want that down the road
This stuff if fun to me. I don't get to do much electrical stuff at work, so I'm enjoying this.
The downside is time. With three small kids running around, actual wrench time is limited. When I was 25 I had all the time in the world but no money. Now that I'm 37...what I lack is time. That's why I have to break this up into small manageable projects to focus on. 30 mins here, 1 hour there, etc.
so balancer arrived. Pioneer DA-3021. Not a bad piece.
For original plan was to take 0.100 off this face here. I'd cut the spacer on 0.100 thick material and just sandwich it
Of course, I got the Hub ID dimension wrong. Good thing this was a cheap Alum prototype. However my multiple bolt idea looks pretty good. I can just pull crank pulley and adjust if needed.
However, this looks awkward
So gonna think about this and a few ideas that have been mentioned. Might try something that attaches to pulley, or go behind balancer. My goal is easy bolt on with no special tools (well other than a 2500 watt co2 laser cutter)
For original plan was to take 0.100 off this face here. I'd cut the spacer on 0.100 thick material and just sandwich it
Of course, I got the Hub ID dimension wrong. Good thing this was a cheap Alum prototype. However my multiple bolt idea looks pretty good. I can just pull crank pulley and adjust if needed.
However, this looks awkward
So gonna think about this and a few ideas that have been mentioned. Might try something that attaches to pulley, or go behind balancer. My goal is easy bolt on with no special tools (well other than a 2500 watt co2 laser cutter)
Ok, spent some time on the explorer intake today. Ground off the seams, blended it and sanded. Even took off certain casting features on the underside as well. Finished up by wire-wheeling the entire thing. I'm probably at the point I can shoot this with high temp primer, and then do one more sanding. I want to build up a few layers of primer to smooth out the imperfections
Between ported lower and upper, I've probably got the most time and $$$ invested into an explorer intake that I've ever seen
Carb cleaner on the inside, soap and water rinse. Drying now and I'll give it its first coat in a bit.
I may pop the freeze plugs and replace after painting without nice new ones
Between ported lower and upper, I've probably got the most time and $$$ invested into an explorer intake that I've ever seen
Carb cleaner on the inside, soap and water rinse. Drying now and I'll give it its first coat in a bit.
I may pop the freeze plugs and replace after painting without nice new ones
HotFox
15 Year Member
so balancer arrived. Pioneer DA-3021. Not a bad piece.
For original plan was to take 0.100 off this face here. I'd cut the spacer on 0.100 thick material and just sandwich it
Of course, I got the Hub ID dimension wrong. Good thing this was a cheap Alum prototype. However my multiple bolt idea looks pretty good. I can just pull crank pulley and adjust if needed.
However, this looks awkward
So gonna think about this and a few ideas that have been mentioned. Might try something that attaches to pulley, or go behind balancer. My goal is easy bolt on with no special tools (well other than a 2500 watt co2 laser cutter)
If I were you I would stay this route, I think this is the best way to go. The trigger should be mounted on the hub not the rubber mounted balancer that is subject to distortions at higher rpm as it absorbs harmonics. I know some triggers are pretty sensitive to movement and who wants to chase a high rpm miss.. Also the farther forward it is subject to snout flex and the trigger mount would also be way out there if you plan to come off the front of the block or front cover which is subject to vibration and flex also.
Yup, all that crossed my mind as well.
Honestly I'm gonna step back and think about it a tad. Not like I don't have time.
I was actually thinking of doing a heat and shrink.
Heat the wheel up and press it over the hub bolt flange. Let it cool and should be tight fit. I like this idea because I don't have to drill/tap screw into the balancer, and possible upset balance and it gets the wheel closer to engine
As for how to position? If make the wheel with all 36 teeth, and then once I get my crank sensor in place, just grind out the one I don't need.
Cut a thicker wheel, heat, and slip/press on
I'd slip a 1/4" spacer on first then press til I contact spacer. Once it cools it shouldn't move unless physically strikes something. I don't think the engine can speed up/down fast enough to make it slip...I think
Another idea...since that distance from pulley bolt face to hub lip is 0.645" I could cut s couple thin 0.25" slip ring spacers and sandwich a 0.150 thick trigger wheel in there. The act of bolting on the pulley would lock it all down. Just need a method of preventing the wheel from rotating. Not enough meat in the hub to drill for s locating pin...maybe.
On the wiring side of things, I bought myself some Duetch automotive connectors, as well as ordered some TXL 12ga wire and some mil-spec shielded wire. This will be used for my harness for the coil packs and cam and crank sensor as well as spare circuits. 14 circuits total.
Honestly I'm gonna step back and think about it a tad. Not like I don't have time.
I was actually thinking of doing a heat and shrink.
Heat the wheel up and press it over the hub bolt flange. Let it cool and should be tight fit. I like this idea because I don't have to drill/tap screw into the balancer, and possible upset balance and it gets the wheel closer to engine
As for how to position? If make the wheel with all 36 teeth, and then once I get my crank sensor in place, just grind out the one I don't need.
Cut a thicker wheel, heat, and slip/press on
I'd slip a 1/4" spacer on first then press til I contact spacer. Once it cools it shouldn't move unless physically strikes something. I don't think the engine can speed up/down fast enough to make it slip...I think
Another idea...since that distance from pulley bolt face to hub lip is 0.645" I could cut s couple thin 0.25" slip ring spacers and sandwich a 0.150 thick trigger wheel in there. The act of bolting on the pulley would lock it all down. Just need a method of preventing the wheel from rotating. Not enough meat in the hub to drill for s locating pin...maybe.
On the wiring side of things, I bought myself some Duetch automotive connectors, as well as ordered some TXL 12ga wire and some mil-spec shielded wire. This will be used for my harness for the coil packs and cam and crank sensor as well as spare circuits. 14 circuits total.
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I was going to just sandwich the wheel between the stock pulley and balancer on that flat, but that little hub nub sticking up is only 0.125 or so. So when you bolt the pulley on, it no longer contacts if so the nub can't support the side load on the pulley...only the bolts are.
I thought that might be s bad idea so I would need to machine that down the width of the spacer.
I've got another idea to try however I'm stuck in training this week and can't whip up another prototype til end of week
I thought that might be s bad idea so I would need to machine that down the width of the spacer.
I've got another idea to try however I'm stuck in training this week and can't whip up another prototype til end of week
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Sneak peak. How's this particular shade of AL paint look on the upper? Too shiny?
The lower is more of a cast aluminum look.
Going to sand the upper again, reprime and maybe get a different shade
Also, ground down the nub. I can prob get it blended better, but don't want to risk it.
Cleaned up the underside as well and removed a lot of the casting flash and filling bosses. Left the Ford part number and stamp. Still in primer here as I only topcoat the top of the intake as a sneak peak
The lower is more of a cast aluminum look.
Going to sand the upper again, reprime and maybe get a different shade
Also, ground down the nub. I can prob get it blended better, but don't want to risk it.
Cleaned up the underside as well and removed a lot of the casting flash and filling bosses. Left the Ford part number and stamp. Still in primer here as I only topcoat the top of the intake as a sneak peak
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I agree. A little too shiny. Going to sand, reprime, and go pick up a slightly duller shade.
The lower is already coated. Had that done when I sent the lower out for porting.
I think this was the target shade. It's more "light gray"
Needless to say, I broke out the sander, lightly sanded it and hit it with primer again.
I'll let it dry and then try color number 3. Looking for something more this color. Less shine
I also just realized I need bolts.
I'll let it dry and then try color number 3. Looking for something more this color. Less shine
I also just realized I need bolts.
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Here's Duplicolor Cast Coat Aluminum. It's. Great looking shade, but not quite what I want...
Gonna sit it on the bench for a day and think about it
Gonna sit it on the bench for a day and think about it
Actually, under good light, the cast coat is not that bad. Might go with this
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