Picked these up today
Need a cleaning, but rash free
Need a cleaning, but rash free
Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.
- Thread starter Mustang5L5
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So, rounding up hardware. I really like the ARP 12 pt stuff but hate the cost.
ARP wants $18 plus shipping for 4 bolts I need for the crank pulley.
So I go on McMaster and find some for $8. Guess who makes them?
Brunt of my parts come in tomorrow. Need to find a block of 2 uninterrupted hours to get this done
ARP wants $18 plus shipping for 4 bolts I need for the crank pulley.
So I go on McMaster and find some for $8. Guess who makes them?
Brunt of my parts come in tomorrow. Need to find a block of 2 uninterrupted hours to get this done
Boxes of parts showed up today. Let’s dissect.
First off LmRs bolt kit. Nice stuff, and it’s ARP....but $90 for hardware blows a monkeys ass
The edelbrock water pump is a nice piece. Well packaged and very nicely made with smooth bearings. Kinda expensive yes...but can’t find much bad said about it
I do like the pipe thread fittings though although I’ll likely replace them with stainless steel fittings
First off LmRs bolt kit. Nice stuff, and it’s ARP....but $90 for hardware blows a monkeys ass
The edelbrock water pump is a nice piece. Well packaged and very nicely made with smooth bearings. Kinda expensive yes...but can’t find much bad said about it
I do like the pipe thread fittings though although I’ll likely replace them with stainless steel fittings
New balancer bolt. No really reason other than everything else being new
Bought some stock pullies a while back. Gonna Ditch the underdrives as I’m putting the ac back on and want reliability in the cooling system. Scuffed up and painted
That’s it. My box of parts awaits a couple good hours of free time. Then the front is done and onto the heads
Bought some stock pullies a while back. Gonna Ditch the underdrives as I’m putting the ac back on and want reliability in the cooling system. Scuffed up and painted
That’s it. My box of parts awaits a couple good hours of free time. Then the front is done and onto the heads
Oh, also forgot
New timing pointer
New balancer
New timing pointer
New balancer
Still need pushrods, and new spring kit. Another $500 or so there. That should wrap it up though.
Engine bay stuff shouldn’t cost me much, but I need a few MM parts for the k member install.
I’ve decided to use this opportunity to also reinstall my AC here, so dash needs to come out.
Basically...this is the last push to do everything I want to do and then I’m done. We will get the car reliable and call it a day.
In the meantime, the FFR cobra fund continued to grow.
Engine bay stuff shouldn’t cost me much, but I need a few MM parts for the k member install.
I’ve decided to use this opportunity to also reinstall my AC here, so dash needs to come out.
Basically...this is the last push to do everything I want to do and then I’m done. We will get the car reliable and call it a day.
In the meantime, the FFR cobra fund continued to grow.
I saw the post above and immediately scrolled up to check the CT. I was not disappointed.
- Jul 7, 2005
- 1,563
- 1,110
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Looking good man, you gonna put the new wheels/tires on the proper side this time?
At this point I put them on the wrong way just to see how many people point that out.
Edit: looks like this one actually went on the right way
Another cost of engine assembling that gets overlooked. Tools.
Gotta say, Amazon is nice in getting things fast.
Gotta change out the springs to ones to handle the higher lift, but I also neeed to install the checker springs for ptv and pushrod lenght measurement.
Hoping to get in the garage one night this week and get this all done. Getting cold outside and currently 29 and light flurries.
My unheated (but insulated) garage is in the mid 50s, so I really want to get the engine done before the real cold sets in around Jan.
Gotta say, Amazon is nice in getting things fast.
Gotta change out the springs to ones to handle the higher lift, but I also neeed to install the checker springs for ptv and pushrod lenght measurement.
Hoping to get in the garage one night this week and get this all done. Getting cold outside and currently 29 and light flurries.
My unheated (but insulated) garage is in the mid 50s, so I really want to get the engine done before the real cold sets in around Jan.
Tool works well, but freeing the valve stem locks was a bit of a PITA
Steel1
Mustang Master
I used this video from Straub when I set-up the valve train on my last build, worked out really good.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5is9BsH5OU
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5is9BsH5OU
Found a couple hours of free time.
Back to the OEM pullies.
Ok, time to work on installing the heads
Back to the OEM pullies.
Ok, time to work on installing the heads
- Jul 12, 2017
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Starting to practice my pushrod measuring technique. I do know I’ll be somewhere in the neighborhood of 6.700” or so.
Problem is the lifters still collapse under the pressure of the checker springs. I’ll have to check the hardware store for lighter ones.
The ford racing lifters are different lenght than stock lifters by a tad, so unsure if making solids from my old lifters will work well. I also need to figure out how much preload to factor in with the M6500-R302 lifters.
In other words, i gotta take my time here and do this step right.
Problem is the lifters still collapse under the pressure of the checker springs. I’ll have to check the hardware store for lighter ones.
The ford racing lifters are different lenght than stock lifters by a tad, so unsure if making solids from my old lifters will work well. I also need to figure out how much preload to factor in with the M6500-R302 lifters.
In other words, i gotta take my time here and do this step right.
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