Build Thread My 1986 T-top Build - Lasting Memories

[srtthis]

im going to be running afcos with zero and i mean zero ing thanks to teams z's bull coil over bar.

but its a 10-150 spring with a single adjustable 15" afco shock

 

[Davedacarpainter]

If you plan on using the car in the capacity to justify Bilstien or Koni shocks (X-cross/road course) then that choice is the right one. If you're gonna street drive the car as it's primary purpose,..then Strange, and QA-1 make actual threaded aluminum "struts" that can be purchased in either a single adjustable (rebound), or a double adjustable (rebound, extension) version very reasonably.

The former is what is on the monster. and the red car, and the orange and black car, and the conquest, and the starion, and the.......

No road racing, just been reading on MM's website, that's why I thought I'd ask before dumping money.

They say the bilsteins are good street shocks.

I do have strange coil overs on the front, I'll look at there stuff some more. Any idea for a spring rate?

 

[srtthis]

springs rates will be based on the scaling of the car and the plans for it.

my car should be in the 54/46 range when its done so and will be pretty much a track only car on radials

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

No road racing, just been reading on MM's website, that's why I thought I'd ask before dumping money.

They say the bilsteins are good street shocks.

I do have strange coil overs on the front, I'll look at there stuff some more. Any idea for a spring rate?

On a hatch, and on the rear, you'll use a 12" spring. (you'll order your rear strut with that in mind, because strange has several compressed/extended lengths) The spring rate on my rear is #130 I think, maybe #150's, I'll go check later, but my rear over hang and your's are different. The good thing about the springs are most suppliers will allow you to exchange them as long as you don't mar, or damage the finish so you can start at something and change them if they are too stiff/soft.

Drag cars will typically use a really stiff rear spring comparably, as will a car you intend to beat on on a road course. On a street car, A QA-1 set in the lower range of compression with a 130 will seem stiff to you,...but you can always go softer. You can go all the way down until the spring looks like there is only a 1/4" gap remaining between the coils before they crash into each other. Strange said to me (when I was alarmed that the 14/175's on the front of the monster almost looked like coil bind) that the space between each coil is cumulative. What looks like 1/4" before coil bind is actually more like 2-2.5" of remaining compression when you count how many coils have that gap, and add them up.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

I retro spect, and as the light at the end of the tunnel for me is starting to become visible, the chance that the monster may see a lap or two at Barber Motorports park looms large. That means that my current suspension choices are not gonna work. My KYB stocker fronts, and a wussy 175 spring , and my S/A QA -1's w/ their 130's are likely way out to lunch. At least I know that now though.

 

[bird_dog0347]

So I'll say this, I have full MM coil overs (front and rear) with Koni shocks/struts which are also on sale now and would likely be a little cheaper than bilsteins. The MM product is amazing, you really can't go wrong there. That said, call them up, fill out their form and then talk to Jack Hidley about picking the right combo for what you want the car to do. It's NOT guesswork, and Jack will put in the time to do the math and get you a setup you can be happy with. If you're gonna spend the money and do it, might as well do it right the first time.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

So I'll say this, I have full MM coil overs (front and rear) with Koni shocks/struts which are also on sale now and would likely be a little cheaper than bilsteins. The MM product is amazing, you really can't go wrong there. That said, call them up, fill out their form and then talk to Jack Hidley about picking the right combo for what you want the car to do. It's NOT guesswork, and Jack will put in the time to do the math and get you a setup you can be happy with. If you're gonna spend the money and do it, might as well do it right the first time.

True, and that's where I was leaning. Thank you.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

So I'll say this, I have full MM coil overs (front and rear) with Koni shocks/struts which are also on sale now and would likely be a little cheaper than bilsteins. The MM product is amazing, you really can't go wrong there. That said, call them up, fill out their form and then talk to Jack Hidley about picking the right combo for what you want the car to do. It's NOT guesswork, and Jack will put in the time to do the math and get you a setup you can be happy with. If you're gonna spend the money and do it, might as well do it right the first time.

Soooo, what are you doing with those QA1's?

 

[bird_dog0347]

Soooo, what are you doing with those QA1's?

Think you meant to quote @madmike1157 here.

 

[Boosted92LX]

Drag cars will typically use a really stiff rear spring comparably, as will a car you intend to beat on on a road course.

Ok, I'm no professional drag racer, or coil over specialist.. I was always under the impression that drag cars were sprung looser in the rear for weight transfer. Am I misreading or misunderstanding your statement Mike?

 

[srtthis]

Ok, I'm no professional drag racer, or coil over specialist.. I was always under the impression that drag cars were sprung looser in the rear for weight transfer. Am I misreading or mis understanding your statement Mike?

we run a softish spring but we also run a lot of AS and let the shock bury the tire at the hit and shock control everything

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Think you meant to quote @madmike1157 here.

Duhhhhh

 

[Davedacarpainter]

I retro spect, and as the light at the end of the tunnel for me is starting to become visible, the chance that the monster may see a lap or two at Barber Motorports park looms large. That means that my current suspension choices are not gonna work. My KYB stocker fronts, and a wussy 175 spring , and my S/A QA -1's w/ their 130's are likely way out to lunch. At least I know that now though.

Sooooo......what are you going to do with those QA1's?

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

Sooooo......what are you going to do with those QA1's?

Nothing for now. I have to get the car running before I'll even entertain the thought of beating on it.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Nothing for now. I have to get the car running before I'll even entertain the thought of beating on it.

Feel your pain brother, maybe not as intensely as you, my build is only a couple years going on.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

I had to go back and order the deluxe frame reinforcement kit after having measured everything out.

Now I have enough steel!

 

[Boosted92LX]

I had to go back and order the deluxe frame reinforcement kit after having measures everything out.

Now I have enough steel!

I love it! Waste not, want not.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

I love it! Waste not, want not.

Spend not is my favorite part.

 

[RaggedGT]

You could make a hell of a seatbelt mount outta that deluxe kit

 

[Davedacarpainter]

You could make a hell of a seatbelt mount outta that deluxe kit

Okay, you bring up a point with the seat belt mounting bracket.

Relocating that is necessary if I want to tub the rear end more than 1.25". 1.25" gets me 315's.

I have to admit, I've been playing with the 335's in my head.

So, here's the dealio. If I want to have a panhard bar, the coilovers need to be at a straight 90 degree angle, or at least the driver's side needs to be.

I talked to Jack Hidley at MM (thanks @bird_dog0347 ). Without more fabrication than I'm willing to do, the panhard bar won't work. The problem is the mount for the panhard bar on the driver's side shock area. In order to fit 335's, I would have to relocate the lower mount even farther in than the 1.25" I was planning on. I have an easy solution to move the lower mount over 1.25", if I go further, I might as well do a drag racing set up and drop in a bored and stroked 351. Maybe a chute for just in case......

I will need to do some minor modification of MM's bracket just for the 1.25" tubbing, nothing crazy, little cutting and welding of their brackets. Nothing too crazy. Yet, I suppose if I put the lower bracket over like @madmike1157 , and I could modify the MM panhard bracket to not use the shock mount on it and to clear my new lower shock mount......

Then a 2.5" mini tubbing could happen.

Got to do some thinking, I will probably just use 315's and be happy.

Soooo, a panhard bar would not only be very functional, it would be cool.

335's would be just so awesomely btchin'. I would just need to corner like your great grandmother out for a Sunday afternoon drive. It would look very cool though.

Would 335's make me aor just a ?