Build Thread My 1986 T-top Build - Lasting Memories
- Thread starter Davedacarpainter
- Start date
I remember reading about some coil over that actually incorporated a bump stop in th co.
I want to avoid coil bind being my bump stop. I'll be laying under my car doing some thinking tonight.
To put the 335 speculation to rest, I went and measured the Viper's tires, they are 13.75" wide. I could manage 14" of clearance side to side with mild modifications to the back seat and a two inch mini tub.
So, no can do.
Don't start with the,"well Dave, what's a half inch more" stuff either.
315's are more than good enough though.
So, no can do.
Don't start with the,"well Dave, what's a half inch more" stuff either.
315's are more than good enough though.
Just got some new parts in today! Thanks to @A5literMan , thanks Todd!
I can't wait to surprise Doby. Couple of months before they'll be going on the dirty old bit*h.
Into the parts pile they go for now.
Into the parts pile they go for now.
You're over thinking stuff Dave.
When have you ever hit a bump hard enough to actually need those things?
My 315s run small at 12" side to side. You will be pleased with how they fill a wheel well.
True, true. I may tape some erasers to the frame rail to make myself feel better though.
I know I will, I'm pretty excited about the whole thing (even the mini-tubbing part).
It's that stupid Viper at work that got me all hot and bothered about 335's.
Trbofox had a huge build on this site and he tubbed an 84 and put 335s on it. Honestly though unless you had a tape measure an honest 315 would look almost identical.
Do you recall what he did with the back seat? Did he modify it or get rid of it?
I remember there being a back seat but the details are fuzzy. Here is his build.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/started-the-84-t-top-coupe.772468/
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/started-the-84-t-top-coupe.772468/
Thanks man, I'm on page seven right now. Just painted the engine bay.
Jeez that looks like the color I'm putting on Doby.
Got back to work on the engine bay this morning
. I brought home 180 grit from work yesterday, so it's time to glaze the bondo. FYI, glaze is essentially a very runny bondo that you spread on you bondo work to fill in pin holes and heavier scratches from the straightening process. It's not meant for straightening a panel. It's best to use 180 grit to block this out.
I'm starting with the left panel since this is the one I screwed up by first bending the upper half by being clumsy, and second, by tack welding the lower half too fast and warping the metal
. So I had the straightening mostly done until I felt it this morning and thought I should fill in a couple smaller dents that I thought the glaze wouldn't take care of. Took care of it and glazed the panel except for the frame rail and the corners. Be careful mixing up glaze, it spreads much farther than bondo does. So if you mix up as much as you did when you mixed bondo, you'll probably not get it all on the panel before it starts to harden, if what you're spreading it on has multiple facets like the Scott Rod panels. When it starts to feel tacky while spreading it out, stop using that batch. You want this to flow down into the pin holes and scratches. Use pressure spreading it as well, you want it to squeeze into your work.
I ran out of time blocking it this morning, got some of it though. Use a guide coat when blocking, btw, it'll make sure you get the entire area and mainly it helps with making sure the panel is straight. Though, like I said before, glaze isn't for the straightening process.
I know, it looks like the whole panel has mud on it. Fact is, it does!
Oh well, once I primer it, who will know?
I've been reading Trbofox's build thread on his t-top notch, great reading for anyone building a car. He turned an absolute turd into a diamond. The color he put on his car is similar to mine, ironically. When he painted his engine bay I couldn't help but get excited, hopefully Doby will be half as nice as his.
Off to work, I'll finish glazing and blocking this side tomorrow morning and get on to the passenger side.
. I brought home 180 grit from work yesterday, so it's time to glaze the bondo. FYI, glaze is essentially a very runny bondo that you spread on you bondo work to fill in pin holes and heavier scratches from the straightening process. It's not meant for straightening a panel. It's best to use 180 grit to block this out.
I'm starting with the left panel since this is the one I screwed up by first bending the upper half by being clumsy, and second, by tack welding the lower half too fast and warping the metal
. So I had the straightening mostly done until I felt it this morning and thought I should fill in a couple smaller dents that I thought the glaze wouldn't take care of. Took care of it and glazed the panel except for the frame rail and the corners. Be careful mixing up glaze, it spreads much farther than bondo does. So if you mix up as much as you did when you mixed bondo, you'll probably not get it all on the panel before it starts to harden, if what you're spreading it on has multiple facets like the Scott Rod panels. When it starts to feel tacky while spreading it out, stop using that batch. You want this to flow down into the pin holes and scratches. Use pressure spreading it as well, you want it to squeeze into your work.
I ran out of time blocking it this morning, got some of it though. Use a guide coat when blocking, btw, it'll make sure you get the entire area and mainly it helps with making sure the panel is straight. Though, like I said before, glaze isn't for the straightening process.
I know, it looks like the whole panel has mud on it. Fact is, it does!
Oh well, once I primer it, who will know?I've been reading Trbofox's build thread on his t-top notch, great reading for anyone building a car. He turned an absolute turd into a diamond. The color he put on his car is similar to mine, ironically. When he painted his engine bay I couldn't help but get excited, hopefully Doby will be half as nice as his.
Off to work, I'll finish glazing and blocking this side tomorrow morning and get on to the passenger side.
smokin joe
Founding Member
If you still want 335's you could always go in the opposite direction with something like this.
http://www.maierracing.com/product/79-93-mustang-rear-quarter-panels/
It would give your car more if a Carrera look though.
http://www.maierracing.com/product/79-93-mustang-rear-quarter-panels/
It would give your car more if a Carrera look though.
why not both? With the right offset to the wheel both will be achievable, but if the car is already painted I wouldn't flare it.
Just sayin wide body cars are stupid sexy. Not like all those carreras live life on the track instead of baking in office parking lots 
Actually, that is really trick.
Too late for Doby though. Way too much bodywork has been done to the outside to put the new panels on. It is so straight right now that I would cry cutting into it.
The 315's I put on the car will be ok.
Now for the next car though.....maybe @stykthyn or @Boosted92LX ought to look this over with their new cars (assuming they go ahead with what they KNOW they should do and buy the cars they're looking at
).The panels make me want to start another car after this one. First things first though.
Last edited:
Similar threads
