My Ls6 Stang goes [email protected] pic & pics

10 seconds is fast.... Nuff Said!

BTW I will be completely restoring my 93 LX 5.0 5-speed to stock specs with the exception of used forged pistons from an 88 mustang because I am a true fox purist. I'm sorry I am LMAO as I am writing this!
 
Other than the block itself, nothing in my 410w is made by ford. So really it's not really a ford pride thing to me at that point. Dig the car, it's just not for everyone
 
Gd who the ***k keeps saying this **** is original?!?!? This has been debated more than abortion and done more than Charlie sheens hooker. Quit using that as a damned excuse! :nonono:

That being said, I'm a purist and I hate chevy. All of it. I could build a country in the Atlantic with All my money in reserves and then rely on the backs of America to bail me out. I'm a business man, I own my own company. I have no respect for them or their late model products.
I detest all chevy. Period. That's why I hate this swap. I wish they would sink to the bottom of the ocean like their financial portfolio did.

How's that for another angle. Buy ford products and support an American company that doesn't bleed America.

Lastly, I've been running 450 rwhp in my factory 5.0 for 6 years. Always ran hard. Well over 500 horse at the crank considering the loss with a centri sc. It can be done. Has been done. It's a matter of choice and he chose chevy. End of story.
 
OHH and too the guy that knows me aka FAST DRIVER and know i dont have a clue, Ive had a 89 notch for over 2 years thats getting a 421 SBC with 726 N/A hp SWAP im pretty sure i have alot more of a clue than you on this topic.

I apologize for saying you don't have a clue.

Heres the breakdown on the parts

364ci LQ9 motor - 1000-1500
L92 heads - 1200 with valves/springs/retainers
Intake manifold - 229 fits (under stock hood)
Cam - comp unit, $400

Theres the 3300, by the time u buy head gaskets, it will be right about 3500. Car craft did this same
motor with just a cam/header/intake swap and made 440 hp NA also.

I agree that a HCI blower 302 could make the number and be a little cheaper, but the block strength of the 302's scares people away

Right, and that's absolutely my point. Personally, I'm a turbo guy. I think with less than $200 you can get explorer heads and intake, for another $1k or so you could get some inverted headers, some home-made hot-side piping, and a used 70mm MPT (only $600 new), which is a 700-750hp turbo. Complete and tuned you'd probably have around $3k invested. This is very similar to my old combo which made 420 to the tire at 10psi with the stock cam. At 15, you'd surely be at 500 and would still be on pump gas.

There are actually cheaper turbos out there that make more power, but the 70mm MPT is inarguably a reliable work horse. My guess is you'd have a pretty nice turbo system for around $1k. Also, I know you can pick up an old incon twin-turbo kit for $1k, because that's all I could get for mine. Depending on the turbos that come with it, that's an 800-1000 hp kit. Now, stick any motor you want to in the fox and make as much power as your choice of turbo is good for. 500rwhp will still come cheapest with the motor that's already in the car. If you're building a 700+rwhp motor, then I'd be hard pressed to say that a factory small block windsor is preferable to an LS motor. I still have a dart-based windsor in my car. So obviously, I felt it was preferable to building an LS.

BTW, with the numbers you just mentioned, you've spent $3,300 and you still a lot of parts unaddressed. How much power is this motor going to make? Will it break 400rwhp? In any case, what I asked for is a real example. I'll check out the article you mentioned when I get a chance. I'm pretty sure a magazine did a 351 junkyard motor in the late 90s with over 400 hp for less than $3k. I'll try to find that, too.

Oh and you can go get a truck 5.3L ls.. complete for like 1grand... put a 150 shot on it and be over 500whp. So it can be done cheap and with good power.

Truck 5.3s with nothing but a 150 shot make 500 rwhp?
 
Chris,

I'm not holding up the torch for an installed LS motor over a ford combo as a "cheaper" build. I was calling you out because you told dude he could build a 500 whp N/A stroker windsor cheaper than a junkyard LS.

Actually, I didn't. I think that 500rwhp could be done in a Fox for cheaper with a 351W. In fact, originally he never even said that a 500rwhp LS motor would cost $3k. He said you could pick up an LS1 for $3k. Everything after that became focused on building a 500rwhp setup for $3k. I still defy anybody to show me a real example of this setup in a fox at that price. I think that it's actually approachable with the 302W that's already in a fox-body particularly with nitrous, and I've already laid out the combo that I would use, being a turbo guy. With any other motor, I remain convinced that all said and done, you're going to end up with a lot more than $3k invested.

There have been article after article touting junkyard LS builds that make that HP on the bottle for around 3k from a salvage yard.
Induction makes the power, and Junkyard windsors fall woefully short of the potential of any air movement capable of making 600 FWHP regardless of how damn much nitrous you ram down it.
I disagree with this statement. I'm not a nitrous guy, but certainly it is possible to do it with a 200 shot of nitrous on a 400hp windsor. In any event, a 300 windsor with a 15 psi will make 600, and that's a subject I know more about than nitrous.

And you don't know why everybody is hating on 302's here lately? It was your suggestion above that 302's were prone to breakage, maybe that's where some people might get it in their head.

yeah, but they take it too far when they're spouting this idea that you can't push more than 400 at the tire.

As for me, I have personally had a 393 w/ a cracked main saddle at around 650 FWHP. Just because there are a bunch running all day with more doesn't mean that there aren't a bunch of dead ones in the bottom of a lake either.
Somehow I suspect it was a tuning related issue or you were revving the hell out of it. A well tuned 351W pushing that power and shifted at 5500-6000 rpm should be fine. If I'm wrong, then it's a rare example.

I don't have a thing for this thread, regardless of how many replies I've made here. I don't have a thing for chevy either. And after looking at your sig, I understand that you have more than a Mustang in your garage.
:nice:

I do have a thing for people getting all bent out of shape because somebody does something different and immediately gets dogged for straying beyond the warm and fuzzy of good ole ford blue.

I don't have a problem with that. I just can't stand the comments that it couldn't be done with a Ford, or that it's somehow better or cheaper when it's done with a Chevy. About the only way that it makes practical sense to me is if you have a Fox with no motor, and you already own an LS1 with no car. That's kind of a strange situation to be in, but I'm sure it happens. If I were in that situation, well... actually I'd probably sell the motor and buy a Ford to put in it, haha! but at least I could understand using the chevy motor in that case.

This forum is full of that. EFI over carbs, notches over hatches, pushrods over OHC's.

Just to set the record straight:

I agree... EFI > Carbs
Disagree hatches > Notches
and am indifferent pushrods = OHC
:nice:

For people to be on the side of complacency and ask "why don't we all just get along" and agree to disagree?
I'd go one further.
How bout if you don't have anything positive to say, why not say anything?

But then how fun would that be?:rolleyes:

I don't think we all have to get along. We should try and be polite if possible, though.

Chris
 
Now why im posting on "Fox 5.0 Talk" Show me where it says conversions & hybrids on here? and ill post there. I figured more people would want to know more about the 60 ft or the power not argue this entire time.

I kind of wish StangNet would follow the Corral on that, and create a section on the boards for conversions and hybrids. If for no other reason, it would keep these retarded pissing matches out of Fox Talk.

Oh and you can go get a truck 5.3L ls.. complete for like 1grand... put a 150 shot on it and be over 500whp. So it can be done cheap and with good power.

I'll believe that when my **** turns purple and smells like rainbow sorbet. What was the highest stock power output for a truck 5.3L? Looks like, depending on the year, anywhere from 285-300hp. +150 shot spray, looks like we're now in the 435-450 range. Consider 12% drivetrain loss, now we're seeing 39X to the tire. That's about 100hp shy of that "500whp" number.

Statements like that just make me grin and shake my head. The LS engines are good, but they aren't MAGIC.
 
I kind of wish StangNet would follow the Corral on that, and create a section on the boards for conversions and hybrids. If for no other reason, it would keep these retarded pissing matches out of Fox Talk.



I'll believe that when my **** turns purple and smells like rainbow sorbet. What was the highest stock power output for a truck 5.3L? Looks like, depending on the year, anywhere from 285-300hp. +150 shot spray, looks like we're now in the 435-450 range. Consider 12% drivetrain loss, now we're seeing 39X to the tire. That's about 100hp shy of that "500whp" number.

Statements like that just make me grin and shake my head. The LS engines are good, but they aren't MAGIC.


Yea sorry I forgot to add a cam to that package, BUT my good friend is the owner of Race Proven motorsports (all they do is LS cars usually) and 150shot with cam has seen 500whp through a 6 speed.

But im no fan of that combo to be honest.
 
Whoa whoa whoa.... I have no idea about that place, but it sounds bad so how dare you?:D

Haha, 4eyedpride is a decent forum, but I think they have a policy where they will lock any thread that mentions mixed breed engine swaps.

Which, I'm not necessarily against that idea... :p

Chris, you're a mod, has there been any talk of adding a section to the boards that is dedicated only to mixed breed engine swaps? The more this comes up, the more I think it's a good idea. This stuff really doesn't belong in Fox Talk. The Corral did it, and from what I've seen, when you keep the bastard swap threads in their own little area, the conversations are much more civil.
 
$100 351W junkyard block. LOL. We would NEVER pull any sort of 351W or 302 engine for $100. What kind of junkyards do you guys have around you??? I'd be losing money spending the time it takes to pull a motor for $100.00
 
I disagree with this statement. I'm not a nitrous guy, but certainly it is possible to do it with a 200 shot of nitrous on a 400hp windsor. In any event, a 300 windsor with a 15 psi will make 600, and that's a subject I know more about than nitrous.


Somehow I suspect it was a tuning related issue or you were revving the hell out of it. A well tuned 351W pushing that power and shifted at 5500-6000 rpm should be fine. If I'm wrong, then it's a rare example
.

From what little I know of you, I'll have to admit I am humbled to be in the presence of a true know it all. You're the second one I've encountered on this board. So, God, Do all of your engines just go from initial startup to "well tuned"? "Shifted at 5500-6000?" what were you doing? going shopping? Is the "rare example" that you're wrong, or the failed windsor?
The engine had a 4340 crank, H beam rods, 13:1 Ross pistons, and a cam W/ a power band to 7k. Stupid me, I should've known better than rev it to 6800.

Strangely enough, Ford felt the need to offer a Sportsman intermediate block. I guess they did that because the stock windsor block is so durable.
The last time I checked w/ the guy at Motorsport, (today) He wouldn't advise relying on a stock block beyond 500 FWHP, and stated that the tune was relative to the durability, but getting there was what killed it. Lastly, that they always cracked in the main saddle.

I don't have a problem with that. I just can't stand the comments that it couldn't be done with a Ford, or that it's somehow better or cheaper when it's done with a Chevy. About the only way that it makes practical sense to me is if you have a Fox with no motor, and you already own an LS1 with no car. That's kind of a strange situation to be in, but I'm sure it happens. If I were in that situation, well... actually I'd probably sell the motor and buy a Ford to put in it, haha! but at least I could understand using the chevy motor in that case.

I'm NOT saying rush right out and drop a Chevy motor in your car if you want a faster, cheaper alternative to going fast. I prefer the ford engine solution first to a cross bred swap, I was simply saying,
(I'll put it in bold text)

It's not sacrilege to do something different. If you don't like the car, treat it like you were in front of it at a car show, and walk on by.

Coming from experience, I had my fill of " forum experts" on the Starion/Conquest Ricer board I used to frequent when I had my Ford engined Starion/Conquests. The Starion had the n2o 393w, the Conquest had an R302 block'd TT363.
W/ the pictures as a testimonial to how the builds were done, all I heard was "Why didn't you use the 4 cyl?; "Why didn't you use a 340/360 in a Chrysler as opposed to a Ford motor?"(even though it was a japanese car) "Why would you get rid of the IRS and swap in a ford rear?" (Despite the fact that the half shafts were cast 3/4" junk.) "Why did you ruin a perfectly good car?" AND "Why didn't you put that in a mustang or some other Ford where it belonged?"
There was a small percentage that liked it for what it was, but for the most part, this is what I got.

I don't think we all have to get along. We should try and be polite if possible, though.

I agree w/ you. Being polite only goes as far and as long until somebody comes along and makes a smart assed one line post about how this or that sucks. From there, it's :chair: then :flame:
 
$100 351W junkyard block. LOL. We would NEVER pull any sort of 351W or 302 engine for $100. What kind of junkyards do you guys have around you??? I'd be losing money spending the time it takes to pull a motor for $100.00

The local Pull-A-Part will help you hoist an engine out of a vehicle and into your truck bed if you have it all torn down and ready to lift. They have fixed pricing on all V8s, IIRC, it is right around $100.

Of course, then the question is, would you rather have a $100 351 or a $100 LS?

:leaving:

I will say though, the junkyard engine argument is very flawed. People like to act as if there are just thousands of prime V8s sitting in junkyards waiting to be dropped into race cars, and that just isn't the case. Low mileage ones get yanked and are sold at a premium. The cheap ones that sit in the yard are all high mileage junk. Last time I was at the JY, there were maybe 20 complete 351s, and out of them maybe only 2 or 3 were actually roller cam (which, personally I would only consider roller for a performance application). ALL of them had ODO readings in the 200,000 range, so they would all have likely required a full rebuild with an overbore. ($$$) I haven't really junkyard shopped for LS engines, but I'd be willing to bet it's the same way. :shrug:
 
The local Pull-A-Part will help you hoist an engine out of a vehicle and into your truck bed if you have it all torn down and ready to lift. They have fixed pricing on all V8s, IIRC, it is right around $100.

Of course, then the question is, would you rather have a $100 351 or a $100 LS?

:leaving:

I will say though, the junkyard engine argument is very flawed. People like to act as if there are just thousands of prime V8s sitting in junkyards waiting to be dropped into race cars, and that just isn't the case. Low mileage ones get yanked and are sold at a premium. The cheap ones that sit in the yard are all high mileage junk. Last time I was at the JY, there were maybe 20 complete 351s, and out of them maybe only 2 or 3 were actually roller cam (which, personally I would only consider roller for a performance application). ALL of them had ODO readings in the 200,000 range, so they would all have likely required a full rebuild with an overbore. ($$$) I haven't really junkyard shopped for LS engines, but I'd be willing to bet it's the same way. :shrug:

Thank you. Finally someone understands the JY situation.

Most car guys think there are all types cars and trucks back there with prime parts that are sold at dirt cheap prices. First, anything with a 351 or 302 is OLD AS DIRT. We're talking 70's, 80's, and early 90's. Those are not prime vehicles that successful yards purchase. Second, we do still buy old Mustangs, but 99% of our inventory is late model, mostly 05-10. We still have parts an cars from late 90's and early 00's, but the money is in the newer, late model cars, so we don't have these type of old parts laying around. We can't sit on parts for years and wait to get $100 for them.
 
$100 351W junkyard block. LOL. We would NEVER pull any sort of 351W or 302 engine for $100. What kind of junkyards do you guys have around you??? I'd be losing money spending the time it takes to pull a motor for $100.00

Well, I can tell you that my brother's shortblock is a $50 302W that wasn't touched.... He just bolted on his stuff tuned it himself and is currently making over 400rwhp with it. He's been driving it that way for the last 2 years.

Last time I was at the JY, there were maybe 20 complete 351s, and out of them maybe only 2 or 3 were actually roller cam (which, personally I would only consider roller for a performance application).

The 69-72 blocks have thicker main webbing - I've seen this in a side by side comparison with my own eyes. It doesn't take much to convert them, but I'd stick with a roller too if I was looking for a complete shortblock.

From what little I know of you, I'll have to admit I am humbled to be in the presence of a true know it all. You're the second one I've encountered on this board. So, God,

:rlaugh:

Alright, first cut the personal attacks out. I wasn't personally attacking you with anything that I said, and I certainly didn't call you any names. I'm not sure if you're doing this to a moderator to show you're tough or what, but if you do it again to myself or anyone else in this forum you'll be on the sidelines of this discussion for, depending on the severity of your actions, for an appropriate length of time.

Now as to your particular comments, I suppose I'm a know-it-all because I disagree with your comments. That's going to happen on this board. I've been doing the 5.0/ford mustang thing since I was 15 and bought my first. That was 14 years ago, and I've owned 3 since then with no less than 5 different engine combinations. That's not much, but considering I live and breath this stuff, I think I have enough expertise in the subject to have gained the respect of a lot of people that I've helped along the way both on this board, at the track, around town, and on plenty of other mustang boards. Furthermore, I have as much right as any to voice my opinion in these forums. If you expect to post here or anywhere on the internet without disagreement, welcome to reality.

Do all of your engines just go from initial startup to "well tuned"?

Usually not far off, actually. WOT is a breeze to tune with basic distributor and fuel pressure changes. Otherwise, I do have both a Tweecer and a Big Stuff 3 and my tuning skills are constantly improving. "Well tuned" is probably the wrong choice of words. Drivability is inconsequential when it comes to preventing the motor from self-destructing. Safely tuned would be more accurate i.e. keeping the AFR at around 13:1 n/a and around 11.5:1 under boost. Timing-wise, I like to start at 16* under boost and work my way up to the best trap speed.

"Shifted at 5500-6000?" what were you doing? going shopping? Is the "rare example" that you're wrong, or the failed windsor?

All I took from the "going shopping" comment is that you shifted your motor significantly higher than 6000 RPM, which validates my speculation on how yours split. It's too bad that I come across as a know-it-all. Unfortunately, here's one more thing I know that you probably won't like: 2-bolt main 351s are going to experience crank walk no matter what you do at somewhere between 7000 and 7500 RPM, and can experience it below that without a girdle which only helps a little (a few hundred RPM). By the way, when you've got a turbo, there's nothing wrong with keeping the RPMs there; if you need more air, you can always turn up the boost :D

The engine had a 4340 crank, H beam rods, 13:1 Ross pistons, and a cam W/ a power band to 7k. Stupid me, I should've known better than rev it to 6800.

haha, I hadn't read this before hitting the quote button and responding to the previous comment. This confirms my suspicion. 6800 is actually pushing a 351 pretty hard, brother. Now, I guarantee you crank walk led to your split block. I can see you don't believe that so we'll agree to disagree, then. I'd love to see what the crank and mains looked like afterwards.

Strangely enough, Ford felt the need to offer a Sportsman intermediate block. I guess they did that because the stock windsor block is so durable.
Oddly enough, they offered a 302 sportsman too - it was no more durable than the stock block.

The last time I checked w/ the guy at Motorsport, (today) He wouldn't advise relying on a stock block beyond 500 FWHP, and stated that the tune was relative to the durability, but getting there was what killed it. Lastly, that they always cracked in the main saddle.

getting where? To a safe tune? Why wouldn't you start out on the safe side?

It's not sacrilege to do something different. If you don't like the car, treat it like you were in front of it at a car show, and walk on by.

I agree with you to a point. It's not sacrilege. If I saw the guy at a car show, I'd either walk on by or give him props for having a quick car. With regard to Stangnet, it's an open forum that allows any member to respond to any topic.

Coming from experience, I had my fill of " forum experts" on the Starion/Conquest Ricer board I used to frequent when I had my Ford engined Starion/Conquests. The Starion had the n2o 393w, the Conquest had an R302 block'd TT363. W/ the pictures as a testimonial to how the builds were done, all I heard was "Why didn't you use the 4 cyl?; "Why didn't you use a 340/360 in a Chrysler as opposed to a Ford motor?"(even though it was a japanese car) "Why would you get rid of the IRS and swap in a ford rear?" (Despite the fact that the half shafts were cast 3/4" junk.) "Why did you ruin a perfectly good car?" AND "Why didn't you put that in a mustang or some other Ford where it belonged?"
There was a small percentage that liked it for what it was, but for the most part, this is what I got.

Sorry you had a bad experience with the other board, and I apologize too if you're having a bad experience here. I guess I'm a forum expert. All I can say is, hey man... that's the internet... Hopefully, we can still get along.

I agree w/ you. Being polite only goes as far and as long until somebody comes along and makes a smart assed one line post about how this or that sucks. From there, it's :chair: then :flame:

Yes, but be careful. While you're free to state your opinion about just about anything, please refrain from name-calling and personal attacks as they will not be tolerated. I'm sorry to come off like this to someone so new. I've never had to throw an iron-fist around in the fox forums, and I think the fox guys tend to be a pretty mature crowd. As far as I can tell, unlike all other moderators, I don't have a problem with any of our members, and I've been around nearly from the beginning.

Chris
 
BTW,

Shaolin Crane LIKES this thread.

thumbsup.jpg
 
Well considering I have around 40+ all fords in my backyard (mostly junkyard). I'll just say props on ETs, as for the hybrid not for me, but it's your car enjoy. Just remember at the end of the track day after all the :fairyfight:and :nutkick:. You can still have a few :cheers: with your fellow racers.