My motor takes its last breath....

Paul Perreca

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Mar 30, 2005
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IT is 1:00am here. About 1 hour ago, i was pulling up to my house, less than a block away, all of the sudden my daily driver, my mustang, makes this horrible sound. I was not flooring it, i was in second gear, doing like 25 miles n hour, my block is short, all of a sudden, i heard this sound and it was like a lifter tap, only it was soo loud it was like a lifter trying to make its way out of my engine. I had my dad look at it, he said it was probably, by the sound of it and my oil pressure being hardly any, and my recent over heating problems that it was probably a bearing. Now, i dont exactly know what this is, but he told my my engine was ****ed and needed to be either taken out and fixed, or just better off putting a new one in. The motor has 113k on it. It had been putting (like putt-putt) for like 2 weeks, like small putting. I dunno if this is related or not. I have a massive oil leak, like a quart or two a week.

My reason for this post, not only to update you and make you feel better cuz your cars run, but to get some info. I dont have much money, i have actually probably about 800 dollars that i can spend. Possibly a thousand by the end of next week. I need to know what to do. Should i save for the rest of the smmer? (i dont make alot of money) or should i just kill myself? lol I dont know what to do its late and im def not gonna sleep tongiht, what friggin prediciment. Just somebody gve me some help. I ama paint guy, i am not a motor guy. I dont knwo what to do. BUDGETS SUCK!!!!!!!

Thanks guys, you've been more than helpful in the past
Paul Perreca
 
I saw that you do real good paint work when you posted pics, maybe go around your local automotive shops and offer some of the mechanics a labor trade. You paint their car, while they work on your car. Whatever you decide, good luck.
 
Good news is you didn't hafta pay for a tow ...

Bad news is that 1000 bucks is as good as gone ...

You could also try a www.summitracing.com rebuild kit
and have your toasted engines crank turned, if salvagable and cheaper than a new or reconditioned crank ... I imagine your piston rods will be acceptable.

A caliper at your local auto parts store can be had for cheap, to mic the rotating parts yourself and see if they are within spec or questionable ... you'll get a good feel just eye-ballin' the parts too.

Pick up or read an engine overhaul manual ... it's not a difficult procedure when you grasp the concepts and sometimes you just hafta get your hands dirty to learn ...

Just throwing out ideas ... :nice:
 
Nice find dagger. However, with that package I would question there 360HP dyno results. If it was mine I'd tear it down and rebuild it from the ground up. Seeing as how this is your daily driver and I'm guessing time is of the essense, that ebay reman keeps lookin sweeter and sweeter.
 
Auto zone longblock and a credit card and you'll be back on the road for under $1500 with a warrenty. That's actually what I suggest to customers anymore who just want a good foundation for a 300hp build.

A new shortblock is just going to show how bad the valve guides are in the heads. Even if you get a set of aluminum heads later you can sell these reman'd stockers for $300-400.

Summits rebuild kit isn't the greatest. Might as well get a reman and be done with it.

For the cheap, pull it down and do a crank $200 and slap it back together. It won't run like new, but it will run.

Jamie
 
well, I see how they got the 360 results. and $350 to upgrade to forged pistons, wow!! sucks man. 113,000 k. Kinda wondering how much cylinder taper you got. Could get by with all new bearings, machining crank, piston rings (optional) and gaskets. maybe an oil pump and timing chain while you where there. Wouldn't be real costly, but gives you a chance to "find that right cam/lifter combo" to go with that new intake and TB.

You have a roller block don't you? If so I don't understand why you would have to replace the lifters when doing the cam. possibly even a little more $$$ saved.
Im guessing if you do it yourself and the cylinder taper isn't bad.
$25 oil pump
$150 TOP for all new Clevite bearings
$70 molly rings
$150 quality gasket set-including upgrade to one peice oil pan gasket and non-umbrella type valve guide seals.
$40 water pump
??75?? to machine the crank
$20 timing chain with pulleys
leaves $270 for camshaft and anything else you may want to upgrade.
If engine needs a .030 and new pistons kiss that $270 goodbye.

If your anywhere near the Quad City area I might be willing to trade off hours, let me know.
 
my$100project said:
Nice find dagger. However, with that package I would question there 360HP dyno results. If it was mine I'd tear it down and rebuild it from the ground up. Seeing as how this is your daily driver and I'm guessing time is of the essense, that ebay reman keeps lookin sweeter and sweeter.

Pay no attention to their HP estimate. I'm sure that with the right parts you could make 360 but it's only a short block after all.
 
Paul check your local scrap yards, you may be surprised what you find. I picked up a 75,000 mile longblock for $200. If you find one that is in good shape it will buy you plenty of time till your ready to build a new motor.
 
I added to the list above..

Tank and Hone block $100, if it needs to be bored add another $100, plus the cost of pistons.
$65 in cam bearings and freeze plugs (installed)
$45 oil pump and shaft
$150 TOP for all new Clevite bearings
$100 Plasma moly rings
$60 head gaskets, $30 oil pan, $20 intake, $15 exhaust, $23 R.A.C.E set, $40 head bolts, etc..
$25-40 water pump (reman)
$100 to machine the crank (Polish journals or turn .010 if needed)
$65 timing chain (Ford Cast kit, don't go too cheap on a timing chain)
$120 lifters (Ford)
 
where do you live? If youre in or around nyc I can get you a non H/O 5.0 for free (you'd need to pull it). The miles are probly pretty high but im not sure. I'd think you could make it a h/o engine with crap from yor old one :shrug:
 
well dude in any cause ur gunna have to pull the engine and tear it down to the bear block to see whats wrong. that would be the easiest way IMO. its just a bitch pulling the engine out and putting it back in, i know :p get ur dad to help u if u can. 2 peeps makes the job go MUCH faster, and much less intimidating as well :nice:
 
update, yea, my engine is really ****ed. Well, i put a starter in my explorer and it still wont start, (alarm related kill switch problem) anyway... I had my dad call a couple of people. One guy said that a guy who worked for him had a mustang in 1988, there was a problem, and they pulled the motor and put in a 1989 ford motorsports short block, when they put it in, they found out after 20 miles that it wasn't the block, and that it was an electrical problem, so they pulled it back out and the short block has laid in a garage since 1989 with 20 miles on it. My dad offered 500 dollars thinking that the engine was a long block, and they guy sai dyea, but when my dad found out it was a short block, he decided to offer about 300 and we are awaiting the guys reply. This is like around the corner from us too. This is a good thing isnt it? Any replies are VERY VERY welcome, and any suggestions as well with the new 20 mile shortblock.

My dad said when we get the new block, we will send out the stock heads that are on my block, and have them done up to bran new shape. I figured we'd also port n polish thm (have some one do it i mean) or is that already part of a valve job? i dunno like i said i need your help -

Paul Perreca
P.S. I love you guys lol
 
If the shortblock has been sitting awhile, make sure it is free of rust on the moving parts and that it spins properly before throwing down the cash ... otherwise for $300 it's a good find :nice:

The heads are not ported and polished with a 3-angle valve job.

"Porting" is to increase the size of the intake and exhaust "ports" (holes) to allow greater volumes of air to flow through them ... polishing is done to decrease air turbulence as the air/fuel mixture enters the cylinder.

Valve jobs are done so the valve and valve seat are mated as close as possible when the valve closes so minimal compressed air escapes as well as better flow when the air/fuel moves past the valve and seat to enter the cylinder.
 
Ditto, if you can get the short block that cheap, get a set of aluminums before dumping cash into junk stockers. Usually it's around $5-600 to do a set of head, plus the porting. Why not spent $400 more and get some good ones.
 
Ranchero5.0 said:
Ditto, if you can get the short block that cheap, get a set of aluminums before dumping cash into junk stockers. Usually it's around $5-600 to do a set of head, plus the porting. Why not spent $400 more and get some good ones.

simply because i dont have "400 more" lol i wish i did, the advice given is valuable, but i am not in the money. the short block is gonna clean me out so far, than i have to work a few weeks to save for the port polish/valve job to my heads, than i have to take the time to put the engine together w/ the new block, my cobra intake that i've had for like half year now, (polished!) and my chrome valve covers, to dress up the engine bay very nicely, than i'll probably heat paint my headers w/ this paint that really looks cool its like aluminum looking but its very nice and high heat. but now i can only look at the car i spent so much time getting ready for this summer. But now is my oppurtunity, i like to turn these horrible things into good things.

Any other small things i should do while rebuilding this motor? I already have a bran new water pump, maybe i'll put in a steering rack while the motor is out, it should be alot easier w/ the motor out. I have heard these fox's are known to have the racks go bad, so might as well do it while it is easy. but again money. Damn. Budgets SUCK!

Thanks guys. please, any small things i need to know about or should probably do let me know. Thanks

Paul Perreca
 
Ranchero5.0 said:
Ditto, if you can get the short block that cheap, get a set of aluminums before dumping cash into junk stockers. Usually it's around $5-600 to do a set of head, plus the porting. Why not spent $400 more and get some good ones.

simply because i dont have "400 more" lol i wish i did, the advice given is valuable, but i am not in the money. the short block is gonna clean me out so far, than i have to work a few weeks to save for the port polish/valve job to my heads, than i have to take the time to put the engine together w/ the new block, my cobra intake that i've had for like half year now, (polished!) and my chrome valve covers, to dress up the engine bay very nicely, than i'll probably heat paint my headers w/ this paint that really looks cool its like aluminum looking but its very nice and high heat. but now i can only look at the car i spent so much time getting ready for this summer. But now is my oppurtunity, i like to turn these horrible things into good things.

Any other small things i should do while rebuilding this motor? I already have a bran new water pump, maybe i'll put in a steering rack while the motor is out, it should be alot easier w/ the motor out. I have heard these fox's are known to have the racks go bad, so might as well do it while it is easy. but again money. Damn. Budgets SUCK!

Thanks guys. please, any small things i need to know about or should probably do let me know.

Should I have the bare block bored .030 or .3 or whatever lol The guy i'm gona buy the motor from works at a machine shop so... thanks

Paul Perreca