My turbo build: 1970 Mustang Grande

ForceFed70 · Nov 21, 2007

10secgoal said:
Sorry about that. Glad to see it was an easy fix ( although out of the pocket book.) This was my biggest fear building any of these kits. All the crank pulleys I measure hover around 6.5 inches at the widest sectionof the pulley. How big is that thing ? I did try to make it close, but not knowing your was that large.
After your first test drive. I better be the first person you contact. I wanna know how big that Kool Aid smile is. lol

Lol.. no need to be sorry. You can't take all of the possible variables into account. Especially with these classics that you KNOW someone has monkied around with the engine at some point in time.

According to my measurements the outer V-groove measured 7.5" in diameter. Larger if you use March's method of measurement(outside of groove vs inside). The new pully was advertised as a 5.5" pully.

Don't worry, I'll be sure to message you! Tho it's going to be a while as the car won't have insurance until the spring (April sometime).

iskwezm · Nov 21, 2007

BottleFed70 said:
Tho it's going to be a while as the car won't have insurance until the spring (April sometime).

you dont need insurance to do a smokey burnout

10secgoal · Nov 21, 2007

iskwezm said:
you dont need insurance to do a smokey burnout

LOL, thought the same thing. But don't need it for a dyno session.

ForceFed70 · Nov 26, 2007

Got some more work done over the weekend....

Here's a picture of the crossover tube tack welded into place:

ForceFed70 · Nov 26, 2007

Here's a pic of the turbo... finally in the car if only temporarily (mock up).

ForceFed70 · Nov 26, 2007

And here's a pic that shows the downpipe also tack welded in place. I still have some work to do under the car in order to join this downpipe to the old dual exhaust system.

Idealy I'd replace the whole exhaust system but that will have to wait until another day.

iskwezm · Nov 27, 2007

BottleFed70 said:
Idealy I'd replace the whole exhaust system but that will have to wait until another day.

You dont need no stinking exhaust. Just dump it off after the front wheel, its quiet.............i promise

ForceFed70 · Nov 27, 2007

iskwezm said:
You dont need no stinking exhaust. Just dump it off after the front wheel, its quiet.............i promise

Lol... I've heard that the turbo actually does quiet down the exhaust a little. But I do like to be able to have a conversation with passangers.

iskwezm · Nov 27, 2007

BottleFed70 said:
Lol... I've heard that the turbo actually does quiet down the exhaust a little. But I do like to be able to have a conversation with passangers.

Oh, that must be the difference then. I dont like talking to my passengers. i just hope they dont break anything and dont wet the seat

68GT500KR_Vert · Nov 27, 2007

I don't think that oil pressure sensor extension is goin gto supply enough oil for the turbo.

68FBJJZ109 · Nov 27, 2007

You should be alright tapping the oil pressure sensor, everyone I know has done that at some point and never had an issue. Ill be doing it this week to my Notch, and most likely to the 68 as well.

10secgoal · Nov 27, 2007

It only needs 20-25 psi. I usually run 3an line. It's easier to over pressure and cause the seals to leak, than to under oil them.

68FBJJZ109 · Nov 27, 2007

There you go, almost positive it wasn't a problem. Though always nice to have someone who knows for sure chime in, how many turbo classics have you built 10secgoal? not to hijack the thread.

ForceFed70 · Nov 27, 2007

Everything I've read addresses problems with too much oil/pressure at the turbo. People often put restrictors in the oil supply line. Like 10secgoal said... it's much easier to get too much oil than it is to get too little. Thanks for the feedback tho... it's nice to know you guys are double-checking my work!

68FBJJZ109 · Nov 27, 2007

Well I am not sure what size drain your guys are running, I think running a much larger drain line helps from blowing seals for example a AN 10 line. Well as far as feedback no one wants a down turbo mustang because the turbo failed. Now Splitting your block is a commendable reason to have a down car http://forums.stangnet.com/images/smilies/thumb.gif

10secgoal · Nov 28, 2007

68FBJJZ109 said:
There you go, almost positive it wasn't a problem. Though always nice to have someone who knows for sure chime in, how many turbo classics have you built 10secgoal? not to hijack the thread.

Forcefed70 ( ) would be number 7 or 8. And I have a few others lined up, even a 65 Camino. *end Hijack*

mrmustangman357 · Nov 28, 2007

mcmaster.com sells oriifces that go in the supply line

ForceFed70 · Nov 28, 2007

68FBJJZ109 said:
Well I am not sure what size drain your guys are running, I think running a much larger drain line helps from blowing seals for example a AN 10 line.

I agree... Oil return is just as important (if not more important) than the supply. Not only the size of the line, but the routing as well.

I will be running a 5/8ths rubber line ment for hydrolics. Which is very close to -10AN in size.

68FBJJZ109 · Nov 29, 2007

I was gunna use hydraulic lines myself but but got a extra kit from a friend. Fittings aren't as fancy looking but there tough and are rated for very high PSI.

ForceFed70 · Dec 7, 2007

The hotside piping is done! Phew, that was a PITA!

Here's a pic I took while testing for fit after all of the exhaust (hotside) piping was finish welded. Looks like everything will work well. I don't really like the idea of the downpipe blocking access to the plugs, but I put in a couple of V-band fittings so at least it's fairly easy to take off.

Luckily there isn't much coldside piping to worry about. I only need to make the pipe that goes from the blow off valve to the intake hat.

My turbo build: 1970 Mustang Grande

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