Long tubes will help; ok different intake; ok 3 inch exhaust; maybe. even all of this combined isn't gonna be 100 horse which is what your missing.
sounds bout right to me power wise u have a combo that isn't near as aggressive as what your 351 needs with restrictions everywhere. theres no clear cut place to start but to tell ya i would just do it all over right with good parts. everyone keeps telling you the heads are fine but if you want the most potential out of that motor ditch them for something larger.
itd probably be cheaper to have the 185s worked over to 205s than to sell them for a discount and buy the 205s
I don't think the heads are the problem. I've seen the flow numbers for them and the work just as well as the heads I'm seeing on all the crate engines I'm seeing advertised at 425hp.
Small Block Ford Aluminum Head Flow Data | FordMustangCar.com
Mine aren't that far off the Vic jr's.
The difference I'm seeing is alot of those drate engines are running Vic jr. intakes with roller cams.
thats true and if afr's weren't so damn conservative on the exhaust side he may not have to touch them.
I agree completely with GTNBY2. As other members have also said, you're heads are definitely not the problem. You also didn't mention whether or not you had an upgraded mid pipe. Such as a non catted or catted X or H pipe. If you're still running the factory mid pipe with all those restrictive cats on there that will definitely choke the engine up something fierce. Again, exhaust alone will not free up that extra 100hp you seem to be missing.
Also, what type of chassis dyno is this? Is it a DynoJet or a Mustang dyno? The two differ greatly as far as horsepower readings go. The Mustang dyno is usually 15% less than the DynoJet and is said to be more accurate. I really hope you can get your combo sorted out. Let us know what the end results are.
I agree completely with GTNBY2. As other members have also said, you're heads are definitely not the problem. You also didn't mention whether or not you had an upgraded mid pipe. Such as a non catted or catted X or H pipe. If you're still running the factory mid pipe with all those restrictive cats on there that will definitely choke the engine up something fierce. Again, exhaust alone will not free up that extra 100hp you seem to be missing.
Also, what type of chassis dyno is this? Is it a DynoJet or a Mustang dyno? The two differ greatly as far as horsepower readings go. The Mustang dyno is usually 15% less than the DynoJet and is said to be more accurate. I really hope you can get your combo sorted out. Let us know what the end results are.
Just keep in mind, that crate engines are rated on an engine dyno, with no accessories. That's about a 30% loss by the time it makes its way to the rear wheels.
Id say that figure is way inflated, that would mean that a 440 horse motor on the dyno makes 308 to the tire. With a typical manual transmission and depending on the accesories its 12-20%
My real world (not a statisical internet fantasy world) example of this is that my motor mad 440 hp on a engine dyno and when i put it in the car with it made 388 hp to the wheels, which makes for about 12% loss thru the accesories and drivetrain
30% of 440 is 132. 440-132 is 308, what am i missing here?
Gearbanger math > standard math
Its like the guys at the gym that can bench 350 lbs but couldnt carry a sofa up a staircase to save thier lives, just a number to brag about sometimes
at the end of the day dyno numbers dont mean much to me, its good to have a ballpark idea, but there are so many varibles that affect them, that id rather have a timeslip to show what the car is capable of. you cant fake it at the track
Its like the guys at the gym that can bench 350 lbs but couldnt carry a sofa up a staircase to save thier lives, just a number to brag about sometimes
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