Progress Thread Nasty Ninety Notch

89oem · Sep 3, 2015

Nice! Glad it was easy, didnt think you'd miss a 4" frame bend...

I run kyb on the rear with eibach pro's and kyb with coilovers on the front. 25.75 rear and 25.25 front wheel lip 275/40/17 and 245/45/17 bfg
comp2s which run fat.

All MM stuff underneath

No rub, rear fenders are rolled - so you have allot of room to play with from 27"

joetrainer31 · Sep 3, 2015

FoxMustangLvr said:
I have the "real" gangsta lean (my seat back). Very uncomfortable to drive this way

Oh, ok. Mine was just leaning to the left in the rear. So, left rear too low, right front too low before R&R'ing struts/shocks.

joetrainer31 · Sep 3, 2015

89oem said:
Nice! Glad it was easy, didnt think you'd miss a 4" frame bend...

I run kyb on the rear with eibach pro's and kyb with coilovers on the front. 25.75 rear and 25.25 front wheel lip 275/40/17 and 245/45/17 bfg
comp2s which run fat.

All MM stuff underneath

No rub, rear fenders are rolled - so you have allot of room to play with from 27"

Ok, so I'm going to end up at about 26.5" front and rear.

90sickfox · Sep 3, 2015

The seat back is easy to fix....take the seat back release lever cover off...take bolts out where the seat back pivots...the whole seat back comes out. Take the cover off the seat back pan and walla! You get to count the cracks. Welded mine up with a 90 amp flux welder from harbor freight....worked great. I should a used it as an excuse to buy newer used seats but couldn't resist the attempt at fixing it. [emoji12]

joetrainer31 · Sep 3, 2015

UPDATE: Beat Out Bushings

Yea, replacing the 25 y.o. diff bushings.

FoxMustangLvr · Sep 3, 2015

90sickfox said:
The seat back is easy to fix....take the seat back release lever cover off...take bolts out where the seat back pivots...the whole seat back comes out. Take the cover off the seat back pan and walla! You get to count the cracks. Welded mine up with a 90 amp flux welder from harbor freight....worked great. I should a used it as an excuse to buy newer used seats but couldn't resist the attempt at fixing it. [emoji12]

It's on my list of things to do. There is a great write up with pictures on the net. I wanted to get aftermarket seats but I think they just don't flow well with the foxbodies.

90sickfox · Sep 3, 2015

My car still has the scarlet red interior... None of the newer seats have it. So I'm cool with my decision. Great work on your build. I went with AJE for my subframe. Haven't gone the coil over route yet. Guess I need to make my struts bottom out. ( aaarrgghhh ) I think she saw me write this...[emoji85] [emoji86] [emoji87] [emoji108]

joetrainer31 · Sep 3, 2015

Update: Diff Bushings

New bushing are in the diff housing. No need to burn them out, unless you like fire. A 3/8" drill bit works great! Also, support the diff with a screw jack or something else sturdy. This will make re-install simple.

joetrainer31 · Sep 11, 2015

UPDATE: Sag!

So close yet so far away. I guess I can't complain. I'm getting older and starting to sag. Why can't my car have some sagging? Yes, it's the dreaded foxbody front end sag (rear has it too, but not as bad).

Observed how the gaps between hood & lights increase..

Up Close

Observed how the hood is all the way down, yet does not contact the bumper. Also, observe how its fwd of the bumper. The bumper has actually sunken in & is sagging in the middle.

After one of the techs observed that the adjusment for this condition were already maxed I ordered a header panel and hardware kit from LMR in order to correct the issue. So, maybe its like getting a chin lift?

89oem · Sep 11, 2015

90sickfox said:
My car still has the scarlet red interior... None of the newer seats have it. So I'm cool with my decision. Great work on your build. I went with AJE for my subframe. Haven't gone the coil over route yet. Guess I need to make my struts bottom out. ( aaarrgghhh ) I think she saw me write this...[emoji85] [emoji86] [emoji87] [emoji108]

Me too, and I cant get myself to want to change it, I like the tweed

Coming right along there, joetrainer

joetrainer31 · Sep 11, 2015

89oem said:
Me too, and I cant get myself to want to change it, I like the tweed

Coming right along there, joetrainer

Thank you. It feels like FOREVER though. Oh, and lots of $$$ too.

joetrainer31 · Sep 25, 2015

UPDATE: The droop is fixed!

Straight as an arrow thanks to a new header panel...

The old header panel, which I tossed w/o taking a pic, was the original. It had cracked in the middle at some point and someone had the bright idea to epoxy it instead of replace it. Clearly that wasn't working.

joetrainer31 · Sep 25, 2015

UPDATE: Reinforcements!

Torque boxes reinforced, Sir!

We also went ahead and replaced the spare tire cardboard then added new trunk insulation and seat to trunk insulation. Do it right or end up with a hot rattle trap!

joetrainer31 · Oct 2, 2015

UPDATE: Clocks, Springs, and Mustangs

Old Blue had some issues alright. This time around there was no horn, air bag lights on, and no cruise. The problem was clear. The clock spring had failed. In this case it was not a simple R&R because clock springs, new ones, are no longer made for most fox bodies. Yes, Dorman makes clock springs and we bought one. However, it will not work as is with a 1990 Mustang. Oddly enough fox bodies look the same from year to year, but the are NOT the same when it comes to wiring and/or clock springs. Have a look at how we made this new piece work.

Old stuff removed...

Have a look at the design difference. The new one on the left is supposed to fit this car. NOT!

Top side of new one...

Internals on the old one have 3 metal spacers, but not on the new one. Fear not, this can be overcome.

After measuring spacers go to hardware store, pick up metal spacers, cut to fit if necessary, and use to mate old/new internals. Interchange pig tails as needed.

Reassemble and drive car.

joetrainer31 · Oct 2, 2015

UPDATE: Rear End Business

Now that Old Blue is more road worthy it was time to swap out the pitiful 273s (car still burned out at will with those slug gears, crazy). Here is SoCal there is an absolute wiz and all things differential. He has been in business for 25 years, builds rear ends for the local Ford dealers and did the rear ends for the Fast & Furious vehicles. It's a little hole in the wall, but the family owned business is LEGIT: Ramjet Rear End
I drove the car in with 273s, one wheel spin, and, unknown to me, scarred up axles. Two and a half hours later I drove out with 355s, a rebuild traction lock with upgraded clutches, all new bearings, new axle bearings & seals, replacement axles, and a painted diff. Below are some pics in sequence:

1)

2) Eddie -the owner/operator. The force is strong with this one.

3) Drain the old...

4) Only quality ingredients used here...

5) Remove burs, smooth out edges for less friction

6) Remove & Inspect old axles

7) Better than new

8) If one axle is bad replace both because this rear is 25 years old! FYI - Eddie prefers not to use new axles because they are usually made in China and are softer metal (28 and/or 31 spline). Instead he prefers good used axles as they are harder metal and will last longer. And, no, 31 spline is not needed unless your car is a (primarily) drag car and/or capable of lifting the front tires.

9) I can see straight through

10) I can see the red trans mount

joetrainer31 · Oct 2, 2015

UPDATE Con't: Rear End Business

11) Disassembling the Diff. Yes, everything was hot tanked.

12) Hammer that sucker! Funny, I'll be saying that about Camaros after this job is done.

13) Old bearing & Seals out.

14) Wipe out old stuff first...

15) Spray clean like new 2nd...

16) Friction Mod goes on all clutches & shims

17) Make clutch/shim sammich and place on gears...

18) Like new & ready for reassembly

19) New bearings & seals in

20) Super clean & new pinion seal/bearing

joetrainer31 · Oct 2, 2015

UPDATE Con't: Rear End Business

21) Junior pressing bearings back on

22) Grease & Reassemble the Traction Loc. Eddie prefers the Traction Loc for street driving applications.

23) Hammer it back together

24) Press bearings on the ends

25) New pinion installed

26) Ring going in

27) The contact patch is good, dude

28) Replacement axles in

29) Everything is shimmed up perfectly the 1st time, no adjustments needed. The trick is to start with the old shims that were already working.

30) Painted because

joetrainer31 · Oct 2, 2015

UPDATE Con't: Rear End Business

31) Everything is in place, rear drums adjusted...

32) Junior finishes off with the fluids & modifiers. Eddie QCs the car, I pay the man, and 2 1/2 hours later I'm driving home.

joetrainer31 · Oct 4, 2015

UPDATE: In a Pinch

The problem is two fold: 1) The front sway bar [slightly] intersects the front oil pan drain plug when going over bumps. 2) The end links are not vertical. They are at a stretched angle and crushing the urethane bushings.

I'm sure this is due to the offset A arms that we needed. Originally we installed the UPR Tubular K-member with chrome moly A arms. However much to our surprise, and to UPR's surprise, the front tires intersected the front bumper, badly (pics in earlier post). To correct this problem UPR scratched their heads, shrugged their shoulders, and sent us a set of offset A arms they typically sell to QA1 owners. This corrected the front tire problem by moving the them about 1-1.5" back.

However, now that we have test driven the car we see the two new problems stated above. We've called UPR about these two new problems. This time they scratched their heads, shrugged their shoulders, and failed to come up with a solution. I'll have a tech working on this issue this week, but if anyone has already solved this concern we would greatly appreciate your insight. Is there an economical way to overcome this concern?

Oh ya, UPR did suggest removing the sway bar completely...on a daily driver....rrrriiiggghhhttt.

rdharper02 · Oct 8, 2015

Joe,
I had to buy the off set A-Arms for mine after going to 17s. I have not had a sway bar on it for years, but have always intended on throwing mine back on. I'd be interested in what you figure out.

Progress Thread Nasty Ninety Notch

89oem

Mustang Master

joetrainer31

joetrainer31

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

joetrainer31

FoxMustangLvr

I love my Pimp

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

joetrainer31

joetrainer31

89oem

Mustang Master

joetrainer31

joetrainer31

joetrainer31

joetrainer31

joetrainer31

joetrainer31

joetrainer31

joetrainer31

joetrainer31

rdharper02

like kicking myself in the junk

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Progress Thread Nasty Ninety Notch

Mustang Master

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

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Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

Mustang Master

like kicking myself in the junk

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