Need a new mod!!

[bvega]

You can easily do a corral.net or stangnet classifieds parts search.

Get the a9L or a9p computer cost=about $70.

Get a 75mm Pro-M MAF calibrated for whichever injectors you want to get cost=about $100

Get the 24lb injectors for sure cost= $100 used or summit price new.

Get IS&T MAF conversion wire harness (excellent harness and instructions) cost= $40.

Get a used cold air intake or do a homemade tubing job cost of used CAI= about $75 for fenderwell with filter.

That should cover it. After you do that you should be sure to get an adjustable fuel pressure reg and set it at about 40-42 psi. Then get a custom diablo chip or dynotuned chip. The chip is well worth the money.

 

[SilverBullit]

I think I'm going to try the MAF conversion, a buddy of mine has a set of 24lb inj, and meter from his 94 Cobra. Will these work? I think I can get a used computer out of a salvage, what year should I get? Also could I make my CAI kit work with MAF even though its supposed to be for SD? What other things do I need to know before starting this project?

Thanks
Casey

 

[Jo_885o]

A PMS? Be nice if that's all you need, most women will give you plenty for free...

Now knowing you're SD, I'll go with the others and tell you to at least start with an adjusable FPR. Even if you do convert to mass air, it will still be just as helpful especially with the mods you have. I know of some folks who love SD and have really made their cars haul with it- but most decide it's more trouble than it's worth and convert. Pro-M makes a sweet mass air conversion with the meter and everything- it's a really awsome setup but $$$

What web site is the mass air conv. for pro-m? or where could I find it, who sells that convert kit?
tHankz in advance

 

[stangbear427]

What web site is the mass air conv. for pro-m? or where could I find it, who sells that convert kit?
tHankz in advance

Pro-M sells it. I wasn't able to find the whole conversion on the website, but here it is anyway:
http://www.pro-flow.com/MUSTANG index 1.htm
I comes with everything- intake, fuel rails, MAF, injuectors, the works. If you're just going over from speed density not carb then you wouldn't need it- I did find just the conversion harness on the site. I actually saw it in a MM&FF magazine. Just pick one up and look up Pro Flow in the vendors index. Good luck!

 

[Black331Stang]

im late, but i agree u def should convert to Mass air.

 

[SilverBullit]

What is the difference between a A9L computer and the A9P computer. Which one is better?

Thanks

 

[SilverBullit]

What size MAF meter and injectors should I get, when converting to MAF? What differences will I notice after the conversion?

Thanks
Casey

 

[SilverBullit]

I need help here guys, I'm trying to get all the parts rounded up for the install.

 

[stangbear427]

With the mods you have, I'd say go with at least a 75mm MAF and #24 injectors. I don't know the differences between the A9L and A9P well enough to tell you which is better, sorry. As for differences you'll notice after- for starters you'll go through the sniffer cleaner, if you care. You should notice it runs smoother, mileage should be a little better, and tuning will be a breeze. Will it feel any faster? That depends on you getting the right sizes to maximise your engine combo- which is pretty impressive so it should be a really efficient powerhouse when you're done. You may want to think about upgrading to the Performer RPM or RPM II intake, after which you may want to think about a different cam. Cross that bridge when you get there.

 

[SilverBullit]

Thanks alot for the info. I hope to get everything within the next few weeks. I'll keep everyone posted.

Thanks
Casey

 

[SilverBullit]

I got everything for the conversion and did it today. Everything works great, I've got a rock solid idle, the car runs well and pulls like a mofo. I've still got the stock MAF meter though, should I go ahead and get a bigger one? Thanks for all the input guys.

Thanks
Casey

 

[IndyBlk5.0]

with those mods, i would get sub frame connectors... Im sure you have pleanty of torque. I know when im shifting through the gears with a high torque engine it feels just plane sloppy.

 

[stangbear427]

It may be a little late for this, but Summit Racing sells the complete conversion for $350 now too. Comes with the piping, mass air meter, mounting bracket, and a new EEC IV in stick or auto version.

 

[SilverBullit]

I've currently upgraded the MAF to a C&L 73mm and switched to 30lb inj, does anybody know what fuel pressure I should set the AFPR at? I've got it at about 35 psi at WOT not sure if this is right or not, but it does run good and I don't have any issues with it yet. I'm also curious as to what kind of horsepower and torque i'm putting out with the mods in sig and quater mile times. I don't have any suspension mods listed in my sig but once i hit the track i'll have subframes and upper and lower control arms. Does anybody have any guesses?

Thanks
Casey

 

[stangbear427]

No! Stock FP is 38psi at 0" of vaccuum (key on, engine off). Pressure increases with accelleration, at WOT you should have at least ten psi more than you say you do. My pressure is set at 40psi, 0"vac, and I'm still running stock heads- other than that our combos are comperable. At WOT I spike around 48psi. Generally, Ford set them a little rich to be safe, and people can extract a little HP by leaning them out, but not in a highly modified ingine like yours. You need air, fuel and spark to make it go- you've given it way more air, big MSD spark, and less fuel- the balance is off. I would think you'd be having drivability problems. You definately want the pressure at least at stock settings with your combo, I'd play with another 1-3psi than that even and see what feels best. Do you have any way of checking your A/F ratio? FP is kinda hard to tune without it, dyno preffered

 

[SilverBullit]

I've got an A/F ratio gauge mounted on the A-pillar, but I haven't gotten a chance to hook it up. So you think I need to up the psi to at least 38 then go up in increments from there? Thanks for the help.

 

[stangbear427]

Yup. Where's your fuel pressure gauge? Get that A/F hooked up (is it a good one?) before you start playing with the pressure, so you have a baseline for tuning; then take it from there. If you're sure it's set lower, then I'd definately at least set it to 38psi at 0 vac first though.

 

[SilverBullit]

Is zero vacume with the line off and plugged like the conditions of WOT.

 

[stangbear427]

No. Zero inches of vacuum (none) is how much vacuum pressure is in the intake when the key is on and so the fuel injection system is activated, but the engine isn't running. Turn the key on and you will here the pump work and the system prime for about two seconds. At this point, there is x? psi of fuel pressure at the injectors, but no delivery of fuel or air moving through the intake yet. When you idle, it should be about the same psi, maybe 1 or 2 psi more. If you set it to 38psi @ 0" vac, it should idle and cruise around 39-40. Under load (accelerating, uphill, etc...) it will be higher- the more throttle you give it the higher the pressure will go. At WOT it should spike about 10 psi higher than it idles for NA engines. Fuel pressure is set at 0" vac because that is the only time the fuel system has no load on it, and so there is no demand- therefore it is the only absolute reading you can easily get.

 

[ram360]

IMO that 70mm TB is too big for a SD car. 65mm is the biggest you should go w/ sd. I'm w/ the others...get the MAF conversion.