need advice on h/c/i selections

i want to get h/c/i for the stang when i get back from iraq but i dont really know how to pick a good combo .should i just try to match power ranges i know i want to be around the same range otherwise it will be all scattered and max power wont be reached is there anything else i need to go threw when deciding.
thanks alot
dan
 
stang_dan said:
thanks for the help how mucharound is all that do u think
dan

It depends on if you buy the stuff new or used. A good H/C/I package (like TFS and Holley make) sell for $2100 or so. You can offset the cost by selling your stock stuff. Or you can save more by buying used stuff like I did. I got everything including my injectors, AFPR, headers and a few others for under $2000. Just remember, your cam is gonna be the major factor that determines where your power is made. So decide where you want the power, then pick that cam, then pick the rest of the stuff to match the cam. Good luck, let us know if you have more questions.
-Chris
 
ok so my understanding of this stuff is pretty much right. how would i have a custom cam made..... im lost in the suace on that one. now i know with stock pistons im not going to be able to get a big duration cuase the pistons wont be able to combust alot of fuel.and i got to watch my lift too becuase i dont want them hitting my pistons lol 2000 is a great number i was planing on 4000 so thats good i will have alot of money when i get back from iraq so but i need to start planning on what im getting cause iwant alot of thing but need to find out what i can get.

tranny is first cause mine is dust.. i was thinking of going with the gfore trans
aluminum flywheel and spec 2/3hybrid clutch.

suspension eibach sportlines with eibach shocks
17 or 18 in rims cant make my mind up most likley 17in cobra r satin finish not chrome.
tires of course.
body kit up in the air saleen 2k conversion or stalker still in air dont really like the rear bumpers.
cowl hood
paint job
tint windows 5% all the way around
full length bbk ceremic coated headers
bbk offroad x
flowmaster super 40 series catback
then motor stuff

now thats alot more than i will come back with
but some will be done with xmas presents.
and everything else i would love to get done when i get back do it all at once.
most likey in the real world it wont happen too much money but. i just want to start making lists and plan this stuff out
body will be last needs to go before show.
im just lost with cams and heads i dont understand all the numbers and equasions and stuff thanks for all the help guy

dan
 
You can call up one of the two guys i mentioned, tell him your combo (what heads, intake, TB, MAF, exhaust, etc) and he'll come up with a cam specifically made for your vehicle (make sure you mention its a 5spd)
 
kool so a custom cam is that good?
how much do they charge normal on average.
thanks again do you think i should go ahead and rebuild the bottom end its got like 130k on it. i will have tranny out so motor pull not to much more work for me.
probally be smarter too. like i said i want to do it all at once so i will get liek 2-3 weeks leave when i get back so thats defently enough time and i will be free everyday to work on it. i dont think i would be able to drive it back to n.c tho cruise at 2500 to 3000 for hours on end may not be good.
i probally should do the bottom end too get the whole drivetrain and stuff done up then worry about my body and suspension and rims.
now just to pick out parts and make a list
would it be better to go with new block or just use mine and get it dipped and crap?

i know i will need it bored out. this car is goin to be a dd most of the time so i should probally go with .30 bore?

im a little nervous about putting a bottom end together ive had friends do it and mess it up and motor runs for like a week.
would it be easier to but a short block.
whats your opinions on these topics and anything else you can think of.

thanks
dan
 
if you rebuild your motor, bore it .030 over (306CI's)
I believe a custom cam is liek $250, maybe even $200.

You can pick up fresh shortblocks for pretty dam cheap (well, cheap in my eyes)
I wouldn't put an aggressive h/c/i combo on a 130k mile bottom end, sure it COULD last, but why chance it when you're already that far in!!
 
Dan

If you wanna go custom cam then let me tell you some things to consider and it is based from me working with Ed Curtis.

You need to decide what you want or expect from your car before you even take one minute of your cam guy's time.
Stuff like:
is this a dd
is this a weekend street car or street & strip car
gear ratio...I can almost assure you your cam guy will tell you to go forget the 355's considering how heavy our cars are
do you have to pass emissions testing
are you worried about drivability

There are more to be sure but that kinda gives you the idea that you need to know what you want.

Making a decision about those kind of things is necessary if you want to obtain your expectations cause your guy knows what parts it will take along with a cam that will make it all come together.

Later
Grady
 
i know im not goin to contact him intill i know i want one and have themoney in hand just getting my options.
the car needs to make trips from nc to nj when i go home so i might tone down the performance mods till i get another car or soemthing we will see thanks for the help guys i really aprricate it.
dan
 
stang_dan said:
i know im not goin to contact him intill i know i want one and have themoney in hand just getting my options.
the car needs to make trips from nc to nj when i go home so i might tone down the performance mods till i get another car or soemthing we will see thanks for the help guys i really aprricate it.
dan

Dan

I see your concern about highway driving and with that said...................

410's will most likely be a little steep but at least go with 373's as they will only add just over 100 rpm to your highway driving conditions.

Later
Grady
 
thanks for the advice i think i figured out what im goin to do

go 3.73 like you said

get a dss short block 2000 for the pro bullet
the get afr185cc heads
havent figured a intake yet
75mm or 80mm trottle body
same for mass air flow
24 or 30# infectors
bigger fuel rails with adjustable regulator
probally 1.6 rockers

most likey i will have to go with the bigger sizes for the fuel delivery
im not sure tho what do u think
dan
 
stang_dan said:
thanks for the advice i think i figured out what im goin to do

go 3.73 like you said

get a dss short block 2000 for the pro bullet
the get afr185cc heads
havent figured a intake yet
75mm or 80mm trottle body
same for mass air flow
24 or 30# infectors
bigger fuel rails with adjustable regulator
probally 1.6 rockers

most likey i will have to go with the bigger sizes for the fuel delivery
im not sure tho what do u think
dan

The stock fuel rails are up to the task and there is no need to upgrade them.

Later
Grady
 
stang_dan said:
thanks for the advice i think i figured out what im goin to do

go 3.73 like you said

get a dss short block 2000 for the pro bullet
the get afr185cc heads
havent figured a intake yet
75mm or 80mm trottle body
same for mass air flow
24 or 30# infectors
bigger fuel rails with adjustable regulator
probally 1.6 rockers

most likey i will have to go with the bigger sizes for the fuel delivery
im not sure tho what do u think
dan

I think if all you want is a decent h/c/i 5.0, the stock block is fine. I also think an 80mm throttle body would be overkill, shoot even a 75mm might be more than you need. 24lb injectors might be too small, especially if you're planning on running a cam suited to those high-flowing heads, and if you want to make more power in the future, get the 30s. With the 30's, you'll likely need a good dyno tune to keep from having idle and cold-start issues (or maybe it's hot-start, I don't remember, lol). The stock fuel rails flow just fine, but you'll definitely want an AFPR (BBK makes a nice one, so does kirban), a bigger fuel pump, a 255 is good, and leaves room for improvement. You don't really have to worry about to big a fuel pump as we have a return fuel system. A custom cam would be best, but TFS makes great OTS cams, as well as Crane. For those 185's, I would recommend a stage 2 cam from TFS, as the stage 1 might not be enough for you. Then you'll want to run maybe an RPM intake by edelbrock, i think that should work. And if you do all that, your power band is gonna be a lot higher than stock, you might wanna consider 4.10's to help you take advantage of all that rpm. Good luck, let us know what you decide.
-Chris
 
thats the thing 410 are to much im still be driving on the highway to get home every now and then.

i want to get the 306 from dss cuase my motor has 130k on it and i dont think it will last long plus i want to do even more mods to motor after i get a another ddi thought the 75mm wouldnt be enough but u guys defently know more than i so.
and the stock fuel rails will work ok.
i should also go with the 30 injectors. i was goin to have a custom cam made but im goin to check out the cam you told me about and check it out.
what kind of power do u think i would be pushing with this type of setup.

1.6 rockers will be good right. which is better stud or pedesule type.

thanks
dan
 
stang_dan said:
thats the thing 410 are to much im still be driving on the highway to get home every now and then.

i want to get the 306 from dss cuase my motor has 130k on it and i dont think it will last long plus i want to do even more mods to motor after i get a another ddi thought the 75mm wouldnt be enough but u guys defently know more than i so.
and the stock fuel rails will work ok.
i should also go with the 30 injectors. i was goin to have a custom cam made but im goin to check out the cam you told me about and check it out.
what kind of power do u think i would be pushing with this type of setup.

1.6 rockers will be good right. which is better stud or pedesule type.

thanks
dan

That's cool. When I wear out my rings I'm gonna yank the motor and rebuild the bottom end with a 347 kit. The 75mm will be plenty for a N/A combo, even a 347. With the setup I have, I'm good for around 300rwhp (370 or so flywheel). With a more aggressive cam I don't see why you can't push 325rwhp, but don't quote me on that, as I don't know for sure. If I remember right, a lot of N/A 347 guys make 350-375rwhp, so I don't think you'll be making that much with a little 306. As for the rockers, the pedestals are just fine, stud mounted ones are supposed to be stronger, although I think they require more adjustment than the pedestal mounts. If you build an all out race motor, they make stud reinforcere (don't know the actual name), but they're a piece of steel or whatever that connect all the studs together to keep them from vibrating and stuff. But you won't need that kind of strength. So either way you go is good. I went with stud mount just because it was easier than setting up my heads for pedestal mount.
-Chris
 
sorry for the double but do u think it would be cheaper and better if i built a bottom end my self instead of buying a dss short block. i was very lost on the bottom end i thought the plastic gauge and stuff was alot harder but i actually sat down with my buddy and he explian it to me and its defently not that hard. i thought it was more like adjusting rear gear. im very confedent i can handle a full engine build and i would like to try it i would have more pride in it. what do u think

should i just use my old block or get an aftermarket one
i know if i use my i need to get a machine shop to bore it .30 over and put new cam bushings in have it dipped and stuff.

i too was thinking of building a 347 stroker but i might want a supercharger or nitrous in the future and those can only handle a like nitrous and boost thats what i was told let me know if i was miss informed please.
thanks dan