need answers please, these questions are plagueing me!

i say a procharger p-1sc. no need to worry about detonation and def go with a 255 fuel pump

prochargers are intercooled, no worry about heat. thus the msd boost retard is not needed. something to look into. one is in my near future...

donnie84 said:

i really wanna get a s/c but i wanna see what you guys think of this setup:

vortech s/c kit (6-8 psi stock setting)
190 fuel pump from it
MSD BTM from kit (might sell and buy a 6BTM)
AFPR
BBK LT headers
BBk shorty x-pipe
Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back
3.73's
bbk 75mm TB
Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold
Vortech FMU

The ones in red will be installed long before the sc kit. i also want to install pullies and a demolet before i get money for the sc kit, just for fun. i know i would have to remove these two when the sc came. what do you guys think? is running it with the fmu gonna be ok? should i upgrade to 24lbs and get a disk for the fmu to run with 24lbs? or would it be ok to ditch the fmu, get 24lbers and a custom tune? and with a custom tune what chip do you guys like to use? and lastly, if i do smog pump and a/c delete with the proper bracket kits, is that gonna mess with my sc install? The only other thing is whta kind of power diff would i see if i didnt get the vortech and i got a powerdyne pullied for 9lbs instead? i know its a lot of questions but it has been going through my head all day! ok off to sociology class!

thanks,
ben

Click to expand...

OK Ben

A little long but I've looked into this stuff on more than one occasion

Lots of things to consider when going with a blown combo!

I'm only gonna talk to you about fuel.

On a blown combo fuel is your friend ...... the more you have in reserve the better

To cover that statement completely go with a 255 pump in the tank and the T-Rex in line pump you get in the kit.

Next in line is to dump the FMU and run 42lb inj's.

Having said that I feel comfortable that you've got enough fuel in volume or reserve with the pumps and when the skinny pedal is all the way down the 42's will deliver what is needed at that moment.

Only prob with the above is a custom tune is needed to make that method work like it should. A custom tune is pretty costly even if you go the least costly self tune route so you need to be aware of the fact.

If you stick to the 24's and FMU thing you will have at wot very high fuel pressure and even though it works its kind of a sloppy or inaccurate way of ensuring you got enough fuel

I mention these things cause I've seen so many times a guy puts a kit on and finds out later that the small inj's & FMU thing is not workin for him too good and then he goes with the other method which is just more money spent for a second set of inj's, recaled maf, and custom tune

The FMU thing is a way to get started for sure and I can say for certain that if you decide to go that route ...... don't go with inj's larger than 24lbs cause they will work pretty good without a custom tune. Once you go larger than 24's you start to have probs with too much fuel at small pulse width driving conditions which is like at idle, light throttle cruise, and the like.

Almost forgot ...... if you decide to do FMU & 24's your 190 pump MIGHT be enough with the T-Rex. Be sure to talk to someone who has more experience than me to make sure about this however.

btw ...... 300 to the wheels with the NA method does not suck

You'd be favorably impressed if you are used to a stock Stang

Later
Grady

What he said....We dyno tuned a Vortech'd FF5 Cobra last fall and had a SC burned for it...This set-up is running the 24s and FMU.....when all was tuned power was left on the table due to the set-up....The FMU couldn't keep up with the power up high..
We're bringing the car back soon to re-tune...42s are going in and the FMU is coming out..I would say do as Grady mentioned up front and be done with it...

i agree with grady. with a blower, fuel is your friend. get 30#s at the very least. 30# would probably be ok because you are not going over 8# of boost and you are staying with stock heads, cam and intake, but you may run the risk of maxxing out the injectors at the top end. to be safe, go with 42#ers and a tune if you plan on doing a h/c/i or increasing the boost later.

for my kenne bell, i went with this:

http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=532

it was the best deal i could find.

Ben

I saw something the second time I read your original post I didn't see the first time.

No way in hell you can support a blown combo with 24's and NO FMU.

A custom tune can do wonders but that ain't one of em.

Later
Grady

Thank god someone else typed all that out already.
I agree also with these guys. Click on my sig for my 94 and check out my old S-Trim combo.

Superchargers... yawn, go turbo.

donnie84 said:

final 5-0. i appreciate the replies. i am looking to get about 350 at the wheels with stock heads and cam, most likely i would go with the eddy performer. usual bolt ons as well, but i wanted to go with a s/c, leaning towards powerdyne for the price. the powerdyne setup would include power pipe, 9psi, 24 or 30#ers, and an fmu. i cant get a custom tune WITH and fmu right? also would have a 255 in the tank. i doubt i would see 9psi with the powerdyne, but i am hoping it would get to my goal. what you all think?

Click to expand...

Well first of all things could be different nowadays but in the past I saw WAY MORE threads with bad stuff to say about Powerdyne than I saw where peeps said good stuff about em.

As for the custom tune ...... yes you could do that cause the fmu would not prevent it................ However

From what I've seen the fmu thing is for getting started with using small inj's and low levels of boost. Some say it works pretty good if you keep those conditions. If that is so ...... and if your custom tune is gonna be done by a Pro ...... you may want to go the fmu route at first and do the custom tune at a later date cause if you have plans to step up the power ...... that would mean a fuel & maf upgrade. That way you only pay for the tune once.

If you go the self tune route then it don't matter as you can do whatever you wish with no additional cost to you.

As for the boost psi value ...... that is over rated. On a stocker it will be high cause the whole combo is nothing but one big restriction to the blower, lol.

Now put the parts on that same motor that will allow greater air flow and the boost will go down.

High boost don't always mean high power.

Anyway that is some stuff I've seen the power adder boys talk about so it is just general info that might help.

Why not go lurk around on the power adder forums and get the details from the guys who have done it .....................................

Heck I ain't even cracked the 300rwhp barrier yet

Later
Grady