need check engine light help

ONEBADPNY

New Member
Nov 10, 2002
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FREMONT, NEBRASKA
i got a code 67 and 31 from my car. not sure what i need to fix. i did the test with the key on and not with it running. my check engine light only comes on with it is cool out side and only when i go through the gears it comes on at a certain rpm then goes out till the next gear at the same rpm. if i hold it at that rpm it still goes out its only as i speed up. i has done this since i have own the car so no recent mods are at fault i don't believe. anyone help me out?:shrug:
 
61 ECT is low (pos grounded)

I'd ohm the ECT and look for an open or short.

31 PFE sensor low

Take a mity vac and make sure your EGR is not stuck (the diaphram likes to stick). Make sure that engine almost stalls when applying vac. If this does not work pull off your egr and try and clean the EGR passage. It likes to build up with carbon.
 
Onebadpny: I believe I was getting a code 31 when I had a bad EGR Valve Position sensor. It's the electronic sensor on the back of the EGR valve. My EVP sensor had failed completely, and I replaced it with one from NAPA, which turned out to be defective.

When I checked the defective one with a multimeter, I found that at some spots in the sensors travel, it was returning resistance values which were much too high. This was making the computer see too little voltage, and turning on the check engine light frequently but it wasn't constantly on.

I would do what giddyup suggested and check your EGR valve first to make sure it is functioning properly. If that's not the problem, I would look at your EVP sensor. Maybe try swapping it with a known good one if a friend has one you can borrow, so you don't have to go and buy a new one at the parts store to find out if it's broken.

Here's a link to a post by jrichker that tells you how to check the EVP sensor with a multimeter. If you do so, don't just check the "open" and "closed" ohms, but also carefully check the values it's returning between the open and closed positions. That's where my defective one had problems.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=615689&highlight=evp+voltage+range

My car also has a 67 code, and I'm not really sure what that one's about. The book that came with my ford scan tool says it might have something to do with the A/C, but I haven't been motivated to deal with that one yet.

Jeff
 
Oops I transcribed the wrong code!


ONEBADPNY I live 15 minutes away from you! I live in schuyler. If you need help I'd look at your car on a saturday that I don't work.
 
CODE: 31 (KOEO) - EVP circuit below minimum voltage. Vref (5 volt reference voltage supplied by the computer) missing or broken wire or bad connection in circuit. Use a DVM to check for 5 volts on the orange/white wire. If it is missing, look for +5 volts at the orange/white wire on the TPS or MAP sensor located on the firewall near the center of the car. Use the black/white wire for the ground for the DVM.
With the sensor removed from the EGR and still connected, press the plunger and watch the voltage change on the brown/lt green wire. Pull the passenger side kick panel and measure the voltage at the computer. You will need to remove the plastic cover over the wires and probe them from the backside. A safety pin may prove very useful for this task. Use pin 27, EVR input (brown/lt green wire) and pin 46, signal ground (black/white wire) to measure the voltage. The orange/white wire is Vref and should always be 5 volts -/+ .25 volt. Be sure to measure Vref at the EGR sensor to rule out any broken wires or bad connections.