Need Help 94 5.0

#61
I don't have o2 sensors either and mines an animal,i just had an issue with the distributor,the previous owner was running a 6al box on it and I still have the stock distributor I went as far as re wiring the stock distributor with a stock coil and eliminating the 6al box and it still had the issue,well I suspected un accounted for air the maf was trying adjust to,like a leaking intake gasket so I took the lower intake off and found the gasket to be leaking,you could visibly tell were it sucked it in,keep in mind the car sat for a few years because it needed a transmission,but anyways I replaced the lower intake gaskets and noticed the the I rings on the injector were dry rotted so I replaced all the injector seals and o rings,once the top end was back in place it was still doing the same thing but I had a code for maf sensor out of range so I replaced it and the issue persisted so then after some choice words I pulled the cap and sprayed the silicone lubricant I was talking about earlier all over the hall affect sensor and inside the cap and it started up and ran fine,it runs really strong now with no misses or stutters I hooked the 6al box back up and it runs even better

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#62
At wot (wide open throttle) the ecu ignores the o2 sensors. The o2 are there to read a
stoichiometric afr when idle and cruise conditions.
Never the less, you need them! UNLESS THE CAR WAS TUNED TO IGNORE THEM. The ecu WILL GO INTO LIMP MODE, and dump a ton of fuel to save itself. Can you run the car without them and race it, yes. Will the car be a gas hog and act up somtimes, yes.
I'm sure a short trip on the Google express will inform you about how the car actually works.
 
#63
a91what said:
At wot (wide open throttle) the ecu ignores the o2 sensors. The o2 are there to read a
stoichiometric afr when idle and cruise conditions.
Never the less, you need them! UNLESS THE CAR WAS TUNED TO IGNORE THEM. The ecu WILL GO INTO LIMP MODE, and dump a ton of fuel to save itself. Can you run the car without them and race it, yes. Will the car be a gas hog and act up somtimes, yes.
I'm sure a short trip on the Google express will inform you about how the car actually works.
Click to expand...
I'm sure a short trip to experience and working on them and not just typing a symptom into Google search would make you more informed on how to actually trouble shoot the symptoms ya know from expierencing them first hand,really? Google? That's not how you troubleshoot cars

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#64
venrick1991 said:
I'm sure a short trip to experience and working on them and not just typing a symptom into Google search would make you more informed on how to actually trouble shoot the symptoms ya know from expierencing them first hand,really? Google? That's not how you troubleshoot cars

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Click to expand...
I clearly said how the car works as in how the ecu actually functions.... do you read the entire posts or just the parts that you want to?? Stop giving the OP bad advice, it's clear that you understand as little about how the ecu functions as he does.
 
#65
a91what said:
I clearly said how the car works as in how the ecu actually functions.... do you read the entire posts or just the parts that you want to?? Stop giving the OP bad advice, it's clear that you understand as little about how the ecu functions as he does.
Click to expand...
Yeah but the only way I would point fingers at the ecu is if it wasn't giving me code 11 which tells you everything is functioning as it's supposed to in the ecu,when I fixed all the issues mine had and it was running right I dumped the stored codes and checked them again and got that code,it has no driveability issues,it doesn't run rich it pulls through the entire power band yet it can still be cruised around town like an old man and the idle doesn't hunt at all and the has mileage is anywhere from 15-17 in town,guys get on these forums all the time and try to over complicate something that's more than likely rather simple

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#66
venrick1991 said:
Yeah but the only way I would point fingers at the ecu is if it wasn't giving me code 11 which tells you everything is functioning as it's supposed to in the ecu,when I fixed all the issues mine had and it was running right I dumped the stored codes and checked them again and got that code,it has no driveability issues,it doesn't run rich it pulls through the entire power band yet it can still be cruised around town like an old man and the idle doesn't hunt at all and the has mileage is anywhere from 15-17 in town,guys get on these forums all the time and try to over complicate something that's more than likely rather simple

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15-17 mpg when you're not running the hell out of it ofcourse and that doesn't happen often

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#67
venrick1991 said:
Yeah but the only way I would point fingers at the ecu is if it wasn't giving me code 11 which tells you everything is functioning as it's supposed to in the ecu,when I fixed all the issues mine had and it was running right I dumped the stored codes and checked them again and got that code,it has no driveability issues,it doesn't run rich it pulls through the entire power band yet it can still be cruised around town like an old man and the idle doesn't hunt at all and the has mileage is anywhere from 15-17 in town,guys get on these forums all the time and try to over complicate something that's more than likely rather simple

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I am not saying the ecu is bad, I'm saying you should read on how the :leghump:ing thing works cause it needs the o2 sensors to work correctly. If you really think it does not need the o2 sensors and FORD just over complicated the ecu for no reason.
Get back on your bus and head over to the corral with the rest of the retards.:tard:
 
#70
venrick1991 said:
There's a hall affect sensor under the rotor in the distributor make sure it isn't bad or drawing moisture,spray it down allover the rotor inside the cap and down in it all I over the hall affect sensor

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Funny enough I had the magnet in my distributor wear itself half away, caused similar problems as described. Real tough to diagnose it as faulty as it looked normal until fully removed. Mind you I had fresh o2 sensors ;)

hoopty5.0 said:
Really?!? THATS the best mileage you get?

My O2 sensors must be malfunctioning because I get mid 20s on the highway. And that's been in 3 different foxes.
Click to expand...

I get 12mpg city / 24mpg highway (2.72 factory gears). All my city is hooligan / idle @ drive through / or not warming up short trips, all high way is 70mph though, but a pretty big difference still (double the mileage). Probably better city/worse highway if I swapped gears, but impressive to me on the highway. Not adding anything, just mentioning it.
 
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#71
A worn pick up or cam gear in the distributor will definitely cause these issues, but rather than just throw parts at the problem everyone was pointing out the first glaring obvious in the diagnostic flow chart. Suggesting to spray everything with silicone fluid or wd40 to make the car run better is simply hack. If anyone's car is leaking enough moisture to fry their distributor then that's another issue.
 
#75
stykthyn said:
A worn pick up or cam gear in the distributor will definitely cause these issues, but rather than just throw parts at the problem everyone was pointing out the first glaring obvious in the diagnostic flow chart. Suggesting to spray everything with silicone fluid or wd40 to make the car run better is simply hack. If anyone's car is leaking enough moisture to fry their distributor then that's another issue.
Click to expand...
That will tell you if the hall affect is bad or drawing moisture not intended to be a permanent fix

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#76
venrick1991 said:
That will tell you if the hall affect is bad or drawing moisture not intended to be a permanent fix

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Because Ford made them out of kitchen sponges. That's why mine crap out every week in Florida.

OP, in all seriousness I hope you get it figured out. Having a car down sucks. Goodluck and let us know what it was.
 
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