Need help building a custom sub box for gt hatchback....

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I got me a huge dual subwoofer box that came with my girlfriends' t-bird. Dual 12's (I think) in the sealed isobaric(?) padded structure. This is what you need for an open-cabin car like the mustang. Want it? Gimme 50 bucks and pay shipping and it's yours. It's just sitting in my basement right now taking up space. It's in great condition and looks like it would blow out all your windows at full blast.

See attachment.
 
stock 92 gt said:
naw i need to make a custom box to make it look stealthy and to kind of "hide" the jl audio w6v2 i am going to buy

I would love to see this without using the spare tire well. Of course you could just take out the back seat and make a box that looks like the rear seat :D
 
I went that route before. I tried to sink 2 jl audio 12/10 inch woofer 's into the back panel plastic and there was little to no bass. Tried the same sort of thing using the doors. No good. I tried all of the "natural spaces" on the car and none of them woofed.

What's wrong with the wheel well anyways?

Here's what I did: I got a jl audio powerwedge. It's a sort of rectangular box with a slope on the backside and it was covered in grey fuzz like the trunk and almost exactly the same color. I flipped it facing the back of the seat so it looked like the back of the seats sloped down. The woofer speaker was directly up against the back of the seat. I took that seat backing plate off and used the woofer as the seatback support. Hooked this bridged to a kenwood kac646 and it would shake your fillings out. People would tell me they were getting a back massage while we cruised. Thats about the best you can do. Trust me, tried it all in the name of stealth. Anything smaller will suck. Pancake woofers suck. free air woofers suck (bigtime). Suck=not good bass....more like heavy midrange. You dont really get the yeah homie g effect with them.

BUT....you could get 2 "sucky" pancake woofers from a tuarus SHO and plant one under each seat with a lot of trimming and such. Then power them up with a 2 channel mono amp. Not good bass but you will feel it directly. Might need to move the fuel pump relay though....mad stealth and decent bass. No space loss and junkyard parts to boot.

Oh, btw....need woofers? I still have the jl audio 10 and 12 inch woofers as well from the project mentioned above. Perfect shape. Gimme a holler if you do
 
I have a custom box with one 10" JL and amp (Mounted on the box) using quick disconnects for when I go to the track. The whole thing weighs about 60lbs. It fits up against the back of the back fold-down seats just under the retractable cover. ( I pull the cover down and it is invisable) It sits tight between the shock towers and slops down to the rear of the car at and angle that is parrallel with the rear hatch. The sound reflects off the rear window and really fills the back of the car with bass.
 
i had a costom box made to fit under the cargo cover. You would never know their was one orion hcca 12 under it with a hcca 275g4 amp powering 1200 watts at 12 volts. Its a ported encloser. I believe jl's need sealed enclosures. My setup pounded real hard. the box angled down like the cargo cover and the sub looked right at the glass in my hatchback. I dont have any picks, but it was very stealthy. I had to have it that way because i wouldent want to walk out in the morning and see my hatchback glass smashed. I never pounded around my area that i lived in.
Its out of the car for now, i need the space. Im selling everything down to the power wire.
 
crazypete said:
I went that route before. I tried to sink 2 jl audio 12/10 inch woofer 's into the back panel plastic and there was little to no bass. Tried the same sort of thing using the doors. No good. I tried all of the "natural spaces" on the car and none of them woofed.

What's wrong with the wheel well anyways?

Here's what I did: I got a jl audio powerwedge. It's a sort of rectangular box with a slope on the backside and it was covered in grey fuzz like the trunk and almost exactly the same color. I flipped it facing the back of the seat so it looked like the back of the seats sloped down. The woofer speaker was directly up against the back of the seat. I took that seat backing plate off and used the woofer as the seatback support. Hooked this bridged to a kenwood kac646 and it would shake your fillings out. People would tell me they were getting a back massage while we cruised. Thats about the best you can do. Trust me, tried it all in the name of stealth. Anything smaller will suck. Pancake woofers suck. free air woofers suck (bigtime). Suck=not good bass....more like heavy midrange. You dont really get the yeah homie g effect with them.

BUT....you could get 2 "sucky" pancake woofers from a tuarus SHO and plant one under each seat with a lot of trimming and such. Then power them up with a 2 channel mono amp. Not good bass but you will feel it directly. Might need to move the fuel pump relay though....mad stealth and decent bass. No space loss and junkyard parts to boot.

Oh, btw....need woofers? I still have the jl audio 10 and 12 inch woofers as well from the project mentioned above. Perfect shape. Gimme a holler if you do



uhhh, right...2 ch mono amp. that sorda contradicts itself. Maybe you mean a mono amp with 2 terminals connected together inside? I think ive heard of those before...although its quite pointless as you can just run both wires to the same terminal.
 
You know. How would it set up if your box was at the rear of the hatch. had the speakers at an angle facing thefront of the cab. Then cuttin the top of the box at the same angle as the hatch when closed so it would fit in snuggly against the hatch lid. Then cover it in what ever you want and put some type of pony logo or mustang text on the visible part so when you opsened the hatch you saw a bit of the top of the box and it had a custom design goin on. Just a thought to get the subs firing to the driver.

About that other thread. Look for 'Return of the custom audio build diary!' thats the exact name of the thread. Ill try to get a link later if I have time...

Good luck.
Joe E.
 
I had a 2x10 box for about 8 yrs. Got tired of people stealing it and not having any room to put groceries. So last week I made a box out of 1/2 inch MDF that was 36.5" wide, 6.5" tall and 12" deep, added 1 10" pyramid 300watt sub. I put 1.5 inch feet on the box and have the sub pointing at the floor. It fits snug between the wheelwells right up against the seat back. You can feel it in the seat and it fills the car with bass. If you want ghetto bass, port the box with two 2" ports and set the crossover to 30Hz. It sounds way better than the angled 2x10 box that I had before AND it makes a nice shelf in the back to set things on.

And to correct something I read earlier in the thread. If you run two speakers from one amp output you subs will sound like dookey. You need to bridge the speakers by running the pos. to one speaker (+) and the neg. to the other speaker (-), then run a wire from the (-) on the first speaker to the (+) on the other speaker.

(+)O(-)-----(+)O(-)
l l
l l
l l
l l
__________
l (+) (-) l
l l
l amp l
------------
Crappy diagram but I hope it gives you an idea.
never mind, the diagram gets screwed when I post it.
 
philly029 said:
I had a 2x10 box for about 8 yrs. Got tired of people stealing it and not having any room to put groceries. So last week I made a box out of 1/2 inch MDF that was 36.5" wide, 6.5" tall and 12" deep, added 1 10" pyramid 300watt sub. I put 1.5 inch feet on the box and have the sub pointing at the floor. It fits snug between the wheelwells right up against the seat back. You can feel it in the seat and it fills the car with bass. If you want ghetto bass, port the box with two 2" ports and set the crossover to 30Hz. It sounds way better than the angled 2x10 box that I had before AND it makes a nice shelf in the back to set things on.




And to correct something I read earlier in the thread. If you run two speakers from one amp output you subs will sound like dookey. You need to bridge the speakers by running the pos. to one speaker (+) and the neg. to the other speaker (-), then run a wire from the (-) on the first speaker to the (+) on the other speaker.

(+)O(-)-----(+)O(-)
l l
l l
l l
l l
__________
l (+) (-) l
l l
l amp l
------------
Crappy diagram but I hope it gives you an idea.
never mind, the diagram gets screwed when I post it.



uhhh, i dont understand what you are trying to tell him to do. i see your diagram fine when i hit quote. u say to bridge the amp...that would mean you wire the speaker load into 2 different amp channels. what you have shown is a mono amp with 2 speakers wired in series. mono amps cant be bridged.