Need help planning a combo

99FiveOh

10 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,050
19
99
J-Ville, FL
I was going to get a supercharger, but the top end of my motor is probably getting tired at 120K miles, so maybe a new set of heads and cam will wake it up. My car already has the Peformer intake and full exhaust. I was wondering if a set of AFR 165's along with a Wolvering/Lunati 1087 cam with 1.6 RR's would get me around 300 hp to the wheels.

From what I gather, 19 lb injectors will support 300 hp with ease. I have a 75mm granatteli MAF already, so that shouldn't be an issue. I know the cam is ancient, but it comes highly recommended for a nice of the shelf grind.

Thanks! :SNSign:
 
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I was going to get a supercharger, but the top end of my motor is probably getting tired at 120K miles, so maybe a new set of heads and cam will wake it up. My car already has the Peformer intake and full exhaust. I was wondering if a set of AFR 165's along with a Wolvering/Lunati 1087 cam with 1.6 RR's would get me around 300 hp to the wheels.

From what I gather, 19 lb injectors will support 300 hp with ease. I have a 75mm granatteli MAF already, so that shouldn't be an issue. I know the cam is ancient, but it comes highly recommended for a nice of the shelf grind.

Thanks! :SNSign:

I agree with the AFR's

I agree with the 1.6 rr's over a 1.7 ratio

Many have had good results with the AFR's and your current intake

I have no knowledge about that cam :shrug:
but
a search should tell you if others have used it :)
Hopefully, you can find some dyno charts where it was used :nice:

19's and 300rwhp just don't make for a safe combo :(
that stuff you heard
a bit of the truth ... but ... not all the truth :bang:
You might get by with inflated pressures :shrug:
but
I don't particularly care for that method :)

I know nothing about that maf but ... if it is caled for 19's
then
you are gonna have to get a different cal or tube

If you are looking for 300rwhp
you came to a place where there are several for you to pattern after ;)

Grady
 
Thanks for the reply. From what I gathered, my MAF is actually made by Pro M, for a time Pro M supposedly built the MAF's for Granatelli, and mine was one of them. It looks just like a chrome Pro M bullet.
 
I'd decide if I really wanted 300 or a bit better na combo for a goal
BEFORE
buying anything else!

I been down that road ;)

I don't know if your talking about a weekend toy or dd :shrug:

If talking about a dd you can go a bit more aggressive with parts selection
if
you plan to have your pcm values optimized.

It worked for me :D

Still ... you're gonna have a few compromises with a dd and 300rwhp ;)

We just got done doing a big thread where .........
drivability issues on a h/c/i dd were talked about at length :D

anyway ... based upon my combo outcome

If I was gonna do my weekend toy combo all over again :crazy:

I'd go more aggressive with my cam
I'd port my lower intake
I'd run race type LT's

Search and research with a specific goal in mind :nice:
It will save you heartache, grief, frustration, and money

Its all too easy to spend and not get with this hobby :rlaugh:

We don't wanna talk about how come I know that :nono:

Grady
 
just how agressive do you want to be? cam and injectors depend on that

i have a book called something like how to build max performance ford engines on a budget, and they have a section in the back with different combos they dynoed. one was a 302 with afr 185s and a comp xe 262 cam that put down 454 on an engine dyno. that was with a carb and long tubes.

i don't see that specific cam in their catalog, but i'm sure they have it. they also have a 258, a 264, and a 266 that would all rock
 
well I'm pretty sure the TFS kit would be more than adequate for what I want, but the price is a little steap. I already have a nice intake, so I'd be wasting money on that (plus the intake was a gift from my bro. so I'm not parting with it). For the money of the TFS kit a brand new S trim could almost be had.

I really want a supercharger, but it may be out of my budget this year. My main goal is to lay waste to those pesky WRX's. They always seem to get away from me, mostly off the line. I can run right next to them from a roll, stock ones anyway.. Thanks again guys!!!
 
I did 300 on a fairly mild cam. The Crower 15511. And a Cobra intake.

As long as all the parts are matched. Its pretty streetable, idled at 700 good vacuum, with a tune you would have no stalling/hunting/ECU learning issues.

Right around 300 is the max for anything streetable and a DD.

I compromised using short tubes and even the stock inlet rubber tube.

It looked almost stock under the hood. Couldnt see the aluminum heads for all the crap anyway.

Get stud mount rockers. you will be much happier.


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How much power were you making with that? Why are you selling it?
i never dynoed it, so i can't say how much power it made. but i can say it made a ton of torque and spun the tires easily. 3 pulleys come with it, for about 6, 8, and 10 pounds of boost.

i am selling it because i have a 410ci engine that i had built for my car. it is being installed now.

i have some other stuff too ... i was originally going to a 331, so i had gotten some ported windsor senior heads, a polished typhoon intake, and jet-hot coated mac long tubes. now i can't use them either, so they are sitting in my basement waiting for someone to decide they are right for their combo.
 
how about heat, did you get any pinging problems with the kenne bell? Tuning? I want the car to stay reliable. I'm assuming it's the 1.5, right?

Thanks
yes, the intake air temps can get up there, especially after driving for a while, which can cause pinging if the tune is not correct. you are supposed to relocate the iat sensor to the #5 runner, which gives the computer correct info about the air temps.

i was having pinging, and i thought that was it, but i couldn't nail it with the tune, so i got a snow meth injection kit, but i hadn't installed it yet.

then, after i took off the blower, i found out that the inlet manifold was not sealed with the correct sealant and that was likely the source of a significant vacuum leak, which would explain why i couldn't fix it with the tune. it was re-sealed with the correct sealant, but by then, i was already past the "point of no return" on my 410 project.

i was told by the guy who sold it to me that it is a 1.8, but the guy who recently checked it out, cleaned it up and re-sealed it, 94twinscrew over on corral, said it is a 1.7. he really knows kenne-bells, so it is probably actually a 1.7.