Need help polishing a BBK throttle body

InMyPrimeSVT

Founding Member
Jul 31, 2001
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19
Cincinnati
Hey all, anyone polished a BBK throttle body? I put Aircraft Stripper on it today in heavy amounts, waited 45 minutes, then worked it over with steel wool, then hosed it off with water. The coating didn't budge. Any suggestions? Or should I just start sanding?
 
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I've used both types of aircraft paint stripper (paint on and aerosol can ) and I've actually had better luck removing powder coating with the paint on type aircraft stripper, only because it seems to be more concentrated versus the aerosol type.
When I did my intake I used the brush/ paint on type aircraft paint stripper and it seemed to have removed 80- 85% of the powder coating on the 1st application.
When I did my cobra mini spare that was just painted and not powder coated I used the aerosol can, and the aerosol can seemed to remove 80-85% on the 1st application.
What I have read but haven’t tried yet is to use either product, and once the aircraft stripper is applied is to stick that item in a large bag (such as a trash bag) and let the chemical do its work in a sealed environment.

That’s just my $.02 and a bump to the top, and hopefully someone else has a better solution to your problem!
 
Well, I just started standing it with 80grit on a shank on my drill and I'm pulling it off no problem. So thanks for the help. Soon to move on to 120 grit. Should I be using Grinder's Grease or is it no big deal?
 
InMyPrimeSVT said:
Well, I just started standing it with 80grit on a shank on my drill and I'm pulling it off no problem. So thanks for the help. Soon to move on to 120 grit. Should I be using Grinder's Grease or is it no big deal?
I tried the Grinder's Grease and didn't like it for whatever that's worth.
The only problem I saw by not using the Grinder's Grease was that the sanding rolls seemed to have wore out just a little quicker is all.
 
sanding with 80 grit on aluminum you will be sanding for days when you get higher in the grits, those 80 grit lines are deeper than they look i wouldnt sand any aluminum less than 320 grit im my opinion only! Also make sure you finish all the way up to 2000 grit wet sand, it will be worth it, as Mothers and other high quality polishes are rated at 3500-4000 grit.
 
92notchback347 said:
sanding with 80 grit on aluminum you will be sanding for days when you get higher in the grits, those 80 grit lines are deeper than they look i wouldnt sand any aluminum less than 320 grit im my opinion only! Also make sure you finish all the way up to 2000 grit wet sand, it will be worth it, as Mothers and other high quality polishes are rated at 3500-4000 grit.


I agree that sanding with 80 grit will puts some deep scratches in aluminum and that's what I only use the 80 grit on a really rough castings such as the upper intake and not much else. By the time you’ve removed all the pit marks in the intake you’ve already sanded out all those 80 grit marks.

If the casting isn't that rough on something I usually will start will 100 grit sandpaper, then move up to 150 grit, or maybe 180 grit, then I'll go with 220 and do my final sanding with 320. That's enough sanding for me!
I'll then put a spiral sewn buffing wheel on an electric drill and Buff the piece Tripoli, when I done buffing I put a different spiral sewn buffing wheel on the drill and Polish the piece with White Rouge.

I spent about 15-20 mins one day doing a spot on a MAF using the method I described above.

100 Grit
View attachment 499816

120 Grit
View attachment 499818

220 Grit
View attachment 499820

Tripoli
View attachment 499822

White Rouge
View attachment 499824

View attachment 499826
 
InMyPrimeSVT said:
well too late now, i have the whole thing sanded on 80 grit so far.

Believe me it's not really that big of a deal if you've already sanded with the 80 grit I would now move up to the 120 grit if it were me.
Are you using wet-dry sand paper or open coat sand paper like you'd sand wood with?
 
When sanding, do you have to always go in the same direction? As well, I have tapered rolls from Eastwood and there are some right angles I just cant get to with the drill, do I get some sandpaper and do it by hand? Thanks for all help guys. This is fun.
 
Thats was the reason you asked about the Grinders Grease because your using the taper sanding rolls :doh:.
No you don't have to go in just one direction, actually your better off if you go in all sort of different directions. I found out that by going just one direction you start to waves in the piece your doing and when you start to polish the piece those waves really show up.

If you don't have a longer mandrel other than the one eastwood supplied then try wrapping the sand paper around a pencil or the handle of an old took brush to get into those really tight areas.
 
Why not just buy a Professional products TB and spacer or better yet accufab? Before you messed with the BBk you could of unloaded it, and gotten nearly enough for the PP TB, or been about $100 short on the accufab.
 
InMyPrimeSVT said:
That post is unproductive. I clearly have a half sanded TB in my garage and now you're telling me I should have unloaded it. Get real, pointless.
I apologize for reminding you that you didn't think before you started this project.