need help with mustang

[TNTRacing]

I have never owned a mustang.
I have been racing a 79 camaro. I want a street car that I can race in a 8.0 headsup index class at a local track. 1/8 mile. I want a mustang for the difference in weight00my camaro is 3700 lbs. I plan on buying a 91 5.0 hatchback car. It is original with an automatic trans. My plans:

1. Change gear to a 3.73-4.30 area
2. Change stall to 3500-4000--this is a pro tree so I need good reaction from the car.
3. Lose weight

But I need help. Can any of you give me ideas to achieve my goals. I need the car to run a consistent 7.90-8.0 in the 1/8 mile. What can I do for the above and what do I need to do the the motor?

Guys I am lost

Thanks

 

[ECU5.0]

shouldnt be too hard with what you already said. i would spend some money on a really good set of adjustable control arms and subframe connectors. shift kit for the tranny definetly and possibly upgrade the transmission internals to handle the abuse. as for the motor that is up to you. a simple h/c/i setup from trickflow would probably give you plenty of power

 

[Matty469]

I would buy a notchback instead. Lighter weight from the start.

 

[TNTRacing]

notchback = trunk car?
What is a h/c/i kit?

Understand we build camaros that run in the 6's and are street cars but a mustang is a new start--so I dont mean to sound stupid. Just need some help

If the car is a stcok car--I figure a 4000 stall and a 4.30 gear would be the best with a 28x10 tire. Do you agree. Now the 5.0 motor?????????????

Also how do you lose weight on these cars?

 

[HISSIN50]

notchback = trunk car?
What is a h/c/i kit?

Understand we build camaros that run in the 6's and are street cars but a mustang is a new start--so I dont mean to sound stupid. Just need some help

If the car is a stcok car--I figure a 4000 stall and a 4.30 gear would be the best with a 28x10 tire. Do you agree. Now the 5.0 motor?????????????

Also how do you lose weight on these cars?

A notch is a trunk car. They were the most svelte from the factory.

HCI is heads/cam/intake - a term you must be familiar with given all your camaro experience.

I will leave the rest to the guys that drag.

Good luck with the project.

 

[90mustangGT]

Exactly, the notches are the ones with the trunks. H/C/I stands for Heads/Cam/Intake.

So we have another wondering "why do these foxes run like they do". Mainly weight, a GT hatch is just over 3200lbs stock, while a LX notch is just around 3100lbs stock. There are so many places to loose some real weight. My goal is 2600lbs with mine, probally will come in 2700-2800 but that is still sport compact car range, with a lot more power and torque. Another advantage is the rear suspension being a stock 4 link, good rear end, the 8.8 is very durable. The aftermarket is really something for us 5.0 owners, comparable to the SBC market.

What you will need for your goal is some real traction, a steep gear, and weight reduction, as well as a good stall if you want to come out of the hole hard. It is doable.

 

[Lyncher]

I would buy a notchback instead. Lighter weight from the start.

definatly go notchback...I believ they are around 200 lbs less but I might be wrong . An yes notchbacks have trunks and only come in lxs notchback=coupe

 

[TNTRacing]

the h/c/i--I wrote wrong--I knew what it meant I just wanted to know if there is a particular setup that you guys have proven that will get me to the goals. Also I am used to running a carb, not fuel injection. Is it a probelm to switch to the carb setup. And as far as my camaro--nothing technical on it. 454BBC 4500 stall 4.30 gear 3700lbs 26X10 tire and 6.80's in the 1/8 mile. I used to race in a 6.99 heads up class. But I want to switch to the 8.0 heads up class. Mustang is the way to go I think because of the weight and the suspension. Please keep it coming. I need all of the help that I can get now while I am still in the planning stage. Anyone have a full setup that runs high 7's?

 

[jrichker]

Carbs are great for strip only car, not so great for an all weather daily driver that gets good fuel mileage. At $3+ a gallon that is a plus factor for EFI. For what it would cost to get a carb conversion, you can do a larger MAF, throttle body & adjustable fuel pressure regulator with some careful shopping. Adjusting the fuel pressure up & down changes the wide open throttle (WOT) fuel/air ratio, which is easier than changing jets in a carb.

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.



*1.) I got a metal flange adapter from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was over a year ago. Summit Racing may also have one too.

Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673
http://www.poweredbyford.com/

 

[TNTRacing]

Thanks for the info so far. I figure I would need about 375hp to run the high 7's. Think I will pick up the summit catalog and look for bolt ons.

How is everyone losing weight from the car? And still keeping it a street car?
Fiberglass hood, weld wheels, what else?

 

[Matty469]

You could always lift the carpet and scrape off the under coat. Fiberglass will also get you a little. If you want to get extremely sexy with it, change over to a set of crank window instead of power. Take out all the AC Components. Take out the Smog Pump. Tubular K Member and Tubular Arms lose some weight. All kind of little stuff adds up.