NEED HELP
- Thread starter Tayohs 95Gt
- Start date
Fuel? Out through the throttle body? My initial response would be that this is impossible. Disconnect your negative battery cable, pull off your upper intake. Then go in the car and turn the ignition to on. Come back to the engine bay and touch the negative cable to the battery. This will cause the fuel pump to prime and if you're having a fuel leak this bad you will be able to see where it is coming from. My guess is that you have a fuel leak under your throttle body that might be spraying upwards onto the throttle body. Check to make sure all the bolts are there, not broken, and that the holes for the bolts in the lower intake aren't cracked/broken. Also pull the injectors out and check for good O rings, sometimes the get stuck in the fuel rail when they're pulled out, and when re-installed don't seat properly and leak. Also check the fuel pressure regulator, ect. ect.
there is no fuel delivery at the TB. the injectors are in the lower intake. the EGR has coolant lines - could it be coolant?
sorry, i cant imagine how you could 'back flow' fuel up in intake.
good luck.
sorry, i cant imagine how you could 'back flow' fuel up in intake.
good luck.
Possible bad Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) diaphragm leaking fuel through the vacuum supply line. This would put lots of fuel in the intake manifold and leave a strong gasoline smell.
I know the vacuum source for the fuel pressure regulator is not on the throttle body, but it is the only fuel related item in close proxmity to the TB.
Disconnect the FPR vacuum line at both ends and try to blow through it. If you are rewarded with gas spitting out, the diaphragm is bad.
I know the vacuum source for the fuel pressure regulator is not on the throttle body, but it is the only fuel related item in close proxmity to the TB.
Disconnect the FPR vacuum line at both ends and try to blow through it. If you are rewarded with gas spitting out, the diaphragm is bad.
Yeah I went through the FPR thing with him on IM last night. That's not the cause either. The only thing else we could come up with would be injectors staying open constantly, like their getting 12v all the time, but I guess it could be mechanical failure of a few of them. He also said there is nothing else hooked up to the fuel system like a pressure guage or a nitrous system. So I'm running out of ideas. I wish I could see this one for myself actually.
im plotting tommoorw to tear apart the upper and lower part of the manis..and checking the injectors.. but if my intake manifold is flooded, isnt it very possible so are my cyclinders? i dunno. may be i should just get another motor? But i dunno if its something electrical rather than mechanical.. leme know what ur imput is thanks
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
seijirou said:
Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing, OR one or more injectors stuck open
The red wire on each injector is powered up whenever the ignition switch is in the Run position. The computer provides a ground to complete the circuit and fire the injector. The injector must have a ground to squirt fuel on command.
A.) A Noid light available from Autozone, is one way to test the injector wiring. If the light stays on constantly, either the wiring has a short to ground or the computer has failed.
B.) I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. You’ll need it to do the cylinder balance test
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
Second method is the cylinder balance test. Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. With the Engine Off, Key OFF, use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure
The wiring for the injectors may have some bare spots in it causing the injector to computer control wire to ground out. This would cause the injector to remain on anytime the key was in the Run position. Remove the injector wiring connectors from the injector. Note that each injector has one red wire for power and a non red wire (wire some color other than red) for computer controlled ground. With the key off, use an Ohmmeter between the non red wire and ground. You should see more than 100 ohms resistance.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif
Similar threads
