*Need Idle Help* please

[mu5tang0]

First off im a newbe, i just bought a 1994 mustang gt the mods are 306, trick flow street heat manifold,e303 cam, bbk cold air intake,blue top injectors(i dont know if they are stock i was told 24lb,adj. fuel pressure regulator, also i dont know if my mass is stock but the only marking on it are japan and the bbk air filter fits right on it, Anyways i have had nothing but idle problems with the car. And it seems like the car is lacking power. The check engine light comes on and then goes off and had it checked and it came up 4059 with they could not tell me what code that is??? I really just need this thing to idle right. also i had cleaned my mass and throttle body some of the questions i have are..
what should my fuel pressure be at?
what should my timing be at for best performance?
what is the error code that i am getting?
what would you guys suggest i do to get rid of this idle problem?
i know this is alot of problems but i just need help before i bring it to a shop and end up sending lots of money to get this fixed. thanks alot for any help you guys could give me.

 

[jnobles06]

could be your o2 sensors, a bad plug, or a bad or cloged fuel injector. i would try to change the fuel filter ( its cheap and it could be the problem).

 

[mu5tang0]

the guy before me change the o2's like 6 months ago, also i changed the plugs and wires and fuel filter? Any thing eles
thanks for your help

 

[HISSIN50]

might try going into more specifics on what the symptoms are exactly. be very specific.
i thought you guys only had 3 digit trouble codes..??

check out the EGR if you have one (if EGR gasses are introduced at idle or WOT, performance really suffers).

good luck.

 

[mo_dingo]

might try going into more specifics on what the symptoms are exactly. be very specific.
i thought you guys only had 3 digit trouble codes..??

check out the EGR if you have one (if EGR gasses are introduced at idle or WOT, performance really suffers).

good luck.

The EGR, A/C, smog pump are all shut off when you go to WOT.

The codes are only 3 digits for our cars. You are reading them incorrectly.

How could you get a 4059? Each digit of the code is represented by each flash of the CEL. There is no zero!!!!!!!

Secondly, this is how to properly run the codes. First, stick the jumper wire in the DLC, then turn the key to ACC. The computer will perform a series of tests.

It will then begin the code sequence. Each code is repeated once. So, lets make up some codes. How about 314, 322, 769 (completely made up, may or may not be actual codes). How this works is the CEL will flash 3 times, then a 1 second pause, then 1 flash, then another 1 second pause, then 4 flashes. Since this code is done, it uses a longer pause (2-2.5 seconds). Then it begins with the next code (322), then it begins with the next code (769). Once it is done with the last code, it will repeat all of the codes again. So, you should now have written down on your piece of paper 314322769314322769. Then you see where the code repeats, and you can confirm the codes you got.

Then start the car with the jumper wire still attached. The CEL will flash half of the number of cylinder you have (i.e. 4 for V8). Then there will be a strange flash. After the wired flicker, you need to turn the steering wheel 1/2 turn in both directions, let go, and then press & release the brake pedal.

That tests the brakes and power steering. If you don't do the brake & PS test, you will get additional codes relating to the brake/PS.

Then, like earlier, the computer will spit out more codes. Works the same way.

Report back when you get the correct codes. That will be a immense help.
Scott

 

[HISSIN50]

The EGR, A/C, smog pump are all shut off when you go to WOT.

Scott, if this info was directed at me, i knew that (it was probably not - it's 3 am and im tired. if so, my bad).
my comment there was directed at his problem - he said his idle sucks. we dont know how it is sucking exactly (we both asked him for more info). but if the pintle in the EGR is staying open or 'bouncing' around, it could certainly affect his idle stability. that is the line of thinking i had.

(if it is malfunctioning, the rules dont apply; it can do whatever it wants).

great post, BTW.

 

[mu5tang0]

thanks alot for your help

 

[194stang]

problem is probably the e-303.....some guyys get a decent idle but most dont......get a tune or a chip from JMS....they fixed all my drivability issues with the e-303.

 

[stang_gt_1994]

A stuck open EGR would cause bad idle and lack of performance. Check timing with spout out also.

 

[stang_gt_1994]

problem is probably the e-303.....some guyys get a decent idle but most dont......get a tune or a chip from JMS....they fixed all my drivability issues with the e-303.

The man also said he had a problem with power.

 

[mu5tang0]

thanks alot for responses! Ok where can a get a custom chip to work with my e303 cam and how much do they cost, also how to i check to see if my egr is sticking open???

 

[c4performance]

poor idle quality

heard lots of fancy parts and names of go fast parts, but no upgrades on monitoring and controling them. you are on the right track by thinking you got a funky foreign mass air sensor. this is in fact your problem, especially with off road exhaust. i had the same problem with mine. idle will not stay put, hunts up and down, will stall every now and then or all the time. anyway, you have to tell the computer to expect a lot more air to be coming and going through the engine for it to recieve and maintain the proper fuel trim. to do this you will need to purchase a mass air flow meter that is callibrated to work with your goodies. one mod can change how they work drastically. there are some goodies out there that will let you manipulate a stock meter, but i eventually got one callibrated that has not let me down in 4 years. raising or lowering the fuel presure will not change what the comp wants the car to do. you have to convince the car to do what you want it to electronically. best of luck to you.