Need input on my big problem....

GTA_V6_Mustang

Active Member
Nov 29, 2004
1,326
3
39
Miami, FL
Ok well I am finally sick of this. Since I have had this car I have had this one problem. When I start it after its warm, cold or hot outside, and stop to go inside a burgerking or something I will come back out start it up and it will start fine, but then just die I have to gas it to keep it on for a few seconds after that idles just fine any input on diagnosing this or anyone else have this problem too. Also when its doing that and I gas it, it seems like its breaking apart as I rev it, not like a smooth rev. The second problem which just started happening this week is the problem driving me really nuts! I will start my car and right after start-up the MIL will flash exactly 3 times and the idle will jump to 1500rpm then i just give it a quick gas and it drops back down to normal idle. I figured ok let me pull the code since the MIL flashed. All I get is 111 System OK. So I am pretty frustrated here and could use some help guys.
 
I have been threw All those things, those are the things I do as regular maintenace. It may be that my IAC is no longer good for the first issue. But the second issue with the MIL flashing 3 times and the idle going up to 1.5k is a Problem.
 
Have you tried cleaning your MAF and gone over everything? No codes for o2's or anything?

TFI good?

Yes MAF clean, car runs fine after start up and no codees for anything. Plus they are brand new o2's lol. There has to be a way to find out why MIL flashes at startup like that. It does it unless I just start and go. If i start and idle it will do it.
 
Air pump has been removed for a while now with n/p so thats not it. And I dont get a solid CEL it just flashes 3 times then goes back off, and when i try and pull codes by using the good old jumper wire it just gives me 111 which is system ok.
 
Hmm...I would think if you started the car then let it die, and the CEL was on, that some sort of code would be stored.

I know you said you already checked the MAF, IAC ect., but maybe another double check wouldn't hurt. Might want to see if the throttle body is dirty too.
 
Hmm...I would think if you started the car then let it die, and the CEL was on, that some sort of code would be stored.

I know you said you already checked the MAF, IAC ect., but maybe another double check wouldn't hurt. Might want to see if the throttle body is dirty too.

Well The IAT is spic and span, The IAC is also spic and span, ill check the MAF tomorrow again but when i checked it not a month or so ago it was also spic and span, the throttle body can not possibly be any cleaner. And I think you guys are missunderstanding me. When I start the car or am driving the CEL is not on, Its just when i start the car after about 15 seconds or so of idling the CEL will flash 3 times only and the idle will shoot up to 1.5 grand and if i crack the throttle real quick that will break the high idle. Or if i just start the car and start driving it will not do this. I just finished driving it right now in the rain, after the stupid thing happens and i go driving I can have the A/C on wipers full and all lights on with radio and it idles smooth as silk still. This is really kinda getting on my nerves.
 
I saw you said you were reading the codes with the jumper wire ...that means jumper wire then watch teh CEL right to get the code.... i swear somewhere on here a while ago i read that.. there are slow codes and fast codes, i guess you could put it. and the way you're doing it, if i remember right, won't pick up the fast codes.
just for the heck of it stop by an auto parts place.. all the ones around here will do free scans...with a good code reader

just a thought though....
 
I saw you said you were reading the codes with the jumper wire ...that means jumper wire then watch teh CEL right to get the code.... i swear somewhere on here a while ago i read that.. there are slow codes and fast codes, i guess you could put it. and the way you're doing it, if i remember right, won't pick up the fast codes.
just for the heck of it stop by an auto parts place.. all the ones around here will do free scans...with a good code reader

just a thought though....

Ok well i think i figured it out. Problem started a little after I replaced the purge solenoid with one I had here at work that was from a sebring that was completely different design but connector worked. Anyways I had replaced it on the sebring because it gave me a performance code and guess what... Erratic idle... I figured well the Erratic idle might have been just the cust. bitching for no reason like they do sometimes (Making it up) but well I ended up putting my old purge solenoid back in and started the car. A/f gauge was pegged rich and car was idling like it was flooded, Had to keep light throttle to clear it out, all the while a/f gauge pegged rich. however CEL did not flash and idle didnt shoot up. Waited a bit and let it idle on its own, and slowly you could see the adaptive numeraters start to relearn on the a/f gauge till it started to switch normal. So I will start it again after it cools off with the old Purge solenoid in and see if that took care of it. If it did guess I am going to either j/y for new one or autoparts store for new one, but it has to be for a mustang this time:p lol

One more thing, this would explain my rediculous pinging lately. I had turned timing all the way down to 4 or 5 degrees and it would still ping, lol
 
Ok nvm.....:mad: Put another purge solenoid in it and still doing the same thing, just not messing with a/f ratio anymore........ I think I am going to start pointing fingers at the IAC.... However it doesnt make sense to me that the CEL would flash 3 times and me not be able to get any code. And on top of that the IAC seems to work fine otherwise because I can turn the wheel all the way with the ac and lights on and it wont turn off.
 
Go to a place that has a scanner and get the codes read by a scan tool. You have a CEL and you know there is an issue and reading the jumper wire is not the best way to get information.

With the time and money you already have invested in throwing parts at it you could have paid a shop to run a diag. test on it, said thanks to the shop and went out and bought the part it needs.
 
Go to a place that has a scanner and get the codes read by a scan tool. You have a CEL and you know there is an issue and reading the jumper wire is not the best way to get information.

With the time and money you already have invested in throwing parts at it you could have paid a shop to run a diag. test on it, said thanks to the shop and went out and bought the part it needs.

Well technically I have only spent time on the car. Have spent no money into the car, just got the purge solenoid from the j/y and pocketed it thats it. At least that working fine now. I will just have to wait till wednesday at school where we have that ford scanner the starsomething

Oh and checked the MAF again and like i knew it was fine and super clean. The IAT was super clean. The IAC I found out was new and it was clean but I cleaned it again anyway. And though the T/B was clean too just sprayed some T/B cleaner in their anyways to clean any residue at all out. Checked all vacuum lines. All good. Checked all underhood connections all seem well. Really hoping its not the PCM, but will find out wednesday. Just kinda hard to believe that nobody has had anything like this happen to them as well but w/e just my luck anyway.
 
This happened to me for a couple weeks last summer. I would start it, it would start kind of normally, then after 3 or 4 seconds idle it would rev to 1500rpm and the engine light would flash a few times, and I had to either drive it or mash the throttle a couple times to get it to come back down. Happened warm or cold.

I ended-up just cleaning the IAC (which was rather crudded with carbon) to a shine, but it only seemed to help it a little bit. As soon as I was set to go buy a new IAC, the car just randomly stopped doing that and ran perfect again. It never did it since then.

I too tried to catch it with the code reader on startup but it always came-back 111. I wish I could help you out more, but I'm not sure what caused it or fixed it.
 
This happened to me for a couple weeks last summer. I would start it, it would start kind of normally, then after 3 or 4 seconds idle it would rev to 1500rpm and the engine light would flash a few times, and I had to either drive it or mash the throttle a couple times to get it to come back down. Happened warm or cold.

I ended-up just cleaning the IAC (which was rather crudded with carbon) to a shine, but it only seemed to help it a little bit. As soon as I was set to go buy a new IAC, the car just randomly stopped doing that and ran perfect again. It never did it since then.

I too tried to catch it with the code reader on startup but it always came-back 111. I wish I could help you out more, but I'm not sure what caused it or fixed it.

Well at least I am not the only one this has happened too. lol, we have that starthingy ford code reader at school so tomorrow I will try and see what it says:D