Need to make my drive drain "bullet proof"

steel1212

Active Member
Jun 24, 2004
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Frankfort, Ky
When I say bullet proof I'm talking about for my setup, not a 600 hp monster :D

Anyway here is what I have already.

9inch with 4.11 track-lok
3" aluminum drive shaft from street or track ( think 500hp rated)
T-5 tranny with g force internals rated at 600hp (comeing soon)
79 302 stock bottom end (here is where I think I need help)

My engine, when I'm done, SHOULD have about 400FWHP. I'll be running street tires on the street and slicks at the track.

Thanks
 
Yep sounds pretty good so far. As far as the stock bottom end goes, Depends on how you are getting to your 400hp. Block, crank, rods are good to go. At minimum I would definatly replace your rod bolts with quality ARP stuff. Also get some good forged pistons and 400 hp should be no problem! :D
 
:stupid: :D
Na 400 shot...duh lol

Seriously, I SHOULD be close according to my desktop dyno with the below equipment plus afr 165s. Remember thats flywheel. I'll have to real life dyno to actually see whats to the tires but my main goal was 300rwhp and it looks like I'll defiantly have that.

What all should I do to my bottom end to hold up or will a stock bottom end be ok? I'm not wanting to be iffy on it I want to definatly know that its going to hold PERIOD!
 
napa racing rebuild kit! :rlaugh:

10:1 hyper pistons, RPM's, rpm intake, 650dp holley, summit heades,ARP bolts, double roller timing chain, low budget build up for my numbers!
:flag:

313rwhp / 331 rwtq :banana:

at JBA racing dyno
 
After seeing alot of broken rods, I would upgrade them. A main girdle certainly wouldn't hurt, especially if you're running the stock crank. Checking tolerances at least three times and no mistakes during assembly are most important. Oh yeah, use a hardened oil pump shaft: A friend of mine took out his high dollar engine because the stock one broke.