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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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New engine or rebuild?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ElCid2006
  • Start date Start date Jul 13, 2008
E

ElCid2006

Member
Dec 8, 2003
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Escondido, CA
Jul 13, 2008
#1
  • Jul 13, 2008
  • #1
Hello all, I have a 95 GT ragtop that I am looking to rebuild. The original engine and transmission are still in the car and they have just under 200k miles on them, and the car is mostly stock. Would I be better off rebuilding the engine from the stock block, or should I just go with a crate engine? I am looking to get about 300-350 rwhp and I want to stay with fuel injection. Thanks.
 

Venom351R

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2002
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Jul 13, 2008
#2
  • Jul 13, 2008
  • #2
Is there anything wrong w/ the engine you have now or does it just have a lot of miles on it? A crate engine long block will cost you in the range of $5,000-$6,000 or more depending on what you get. Are you looking to stay w/ a 302 or would you like to step up to a 331 or 347? I'm not positive of the total cost on boring out a 302 to be a 331 or 347 but that + H/C/I most likely will be cheaper then a crate motor. Depends on the resources you have available. If your fine w/ keeping the 302 b/c you don't know of anyone near you that could bore it out you can still hit 300 RWHP w/ just rebuild and H/C/I package.
 

95BlueStallion

My assy trans to myself
15 Year Member
Feb 22, 2007
5,125
3,091
214
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Jul 13, 2008
#3
  • Jul 13, 2008
  • #3
Redline_351R said:
Is there anything wrong w/ the engine you have now or does it just have a lot of miles on it? A crate engine long block will cost you in the range of $5,000-$6,000 or more depending on what you get. Are you looking to stay w/ a 302 or would you like to step up to a 331 or 347? I'm not positive of the total cost on boring out a 302 to be a 331 or 347 but that + H/C/I most likely will be cheaper then a crate motor. Depends on the resources you have available. If your fine w/ keeping the 302 b/c you don't know of anyone near you that could bore it out you can still hit 300 RWHP w/ just rebuild and H/C/I package.
Click to expand...

+1 If you are planning on staying at the 300-350 rwhp mark, that can be accomplished with a 306ci HCI engine using the stock block. I seem to read that people hit that mark and are happy for a while, but then that bug comes biting again and they wish they would have put the money into a dart, boss, etc. block so they could keep adding power with no worries...
 

Pokageek

Active Member
Jun 10, 2005
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MA, USA
Jul 13, 2008
#4
  • Jul 13, 2008
  • #4
Go 347 and you can hit your goal without getting radical.
 

Methodical

15 Year Member
Dec 1, 2003
1,192
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59
Clinton, MD
Jul 13, 2008
#5
  • Jul 13, 2008
  • #5
Plus the current block is well seasoned. Do a rebuild (306-347) - that's my opinion anyway. Plus if you want more power you can always supercharge or use nitrous. Going radical can cost big bucks and big headaches (see some of the folks building 400+ cube engines and the problems and $ they've run into - see below) and the 2 together can drive you crazy. Now if you do all the work yourself that's a different story.

http://forums.stangnet.com/716200-pokageeks-pain-thread-351-stroker-414c-i-swap-problems.html

http://forums.stangnet.com/646658-blackverts-n-buildup-thread.html

Just One Man's Opinion
 
E

ElCid2006

Member
Dec 8, 2003
83
0
6
Escondido, CA
Jul 13, 2008
#6
  • Jul 13, 2008
  • #6
Redline_351R said:
Is there anything wrong w/ the engine you have now or does it just have a lot of miles on it? A crate engine long block will cost you in the range of $5,000-$6,000 or more depending on what you get. Are you looking to stay w/ a 302 or would you like to step up to a 331 or 347? I'm not positive of the total cost on boring out a 302 to be a 331 or 347 but that + H/C/I most likely will be cheaper then a crate motor. Depends on the resources you have available. If your fine w/ keeping the 302 b/c you don't know of anyone near you that could bore it out you can still hit 300 RWHP w/ just rebuild and H/C/I package.
Click to expand...

The engine is worn out due to the milage. I parked it once I got my 07, and then tried to crank it a few weeks later and it sounded like the valve train was trying to come apart. I am leaning towards the rebuild, using Edelbrock's Power Package (heads, cam, intake manifold, throttle body).

On a side note, how do you like your Magnapacks on your 95?
 

Venom351R

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2002
4,548
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Jul 13, 2008
#7
  • Jul 13, 2008
  • #7
ElCid2006 said:
The engine is worn out due to the milage. I parked it once I got my 07, and then tried to crank it a few weeks later and it sounded like the valve train was trying to come apart. I am leaning towards the rebuild, using Edelbrock's Power Package (heads, cam, intake manifold, throttle body).

On a side note, how do you like your Magnapacks on your 95?
Click to expand...

Either the Edelbrock or Trick Flow Package is a good choice. It will put you right at the 300 RWHP mark but don't expect 350 out of the 302 unless you were to do something pretty radical (speaking in terms of N/A)

As far as the magnapacks I like them a lot. Sounded like complete Dog $hit w/ an O/R H pipe but have the most aggressive sound to them w/ the Catted Bassani X on them now.
 

Husky44

10 Year Member
Sep 27, 2006
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Tacoma, WA
Jul 13, 2008
#8
  • Jul 13, 2008
  • #8
I guess I'll be a little contrarian--I'd go crate.

With what you're going to spend to do a rebuild, plus the Edlebrock or TFI kit, you can get a solid crate stroker motor for reasonably close. A lot of them are carrying warranties too!

Unless you've got a close working relationship with a machine shop, are an expert builder with plenty of time on your hands and a good shop to use, the crate motor will offer some advantages.

When I was doing my 347 for my 67, I determined that the price difference wasn't significant between a quality rebuild, and a crate motor. If you're block's got that much wear, I'd be leaning towards the crate. Machining an old block only does so much. You can never make stuff new, like water passages, wall thicknesses, etc.

My 2 cents...
 

Venom351R

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2002
4,548
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98
MAINE
Jul 13, 2008
#9
  • Jul 13, 2008
  • #9
Husky44 said:
I guess I'll be a little contrarian--I'd go crate.

With what you're going to spend to do a rebuild, plus the Edlebrock or TFI kit, you can get a solid crate stroker motor for reasonably close. A lot of them are carrying warranties too!

Unless you've got a close working relationship with a machine shop, are an expert builder with plenty of time on your hands and a good shop to use, the crate motor will offer some advantages.

When I was doing my 347 for my 67, I determined that the price difference wasn't significant between a quality rebuild, and a crate motor. If you're block's got that much wear, I'd be leaning towards the crate. Machining an old block only does so much. You can never make stuff new, like water passages, wall thicknesses, etc.

My 2 cents...
Click to expand...


Good points which is why I mentioned the available resources. If there is one close buy that can do that type of work at a decent price then it is better off to do a crate motor
 
E

ElCid2006

Member
Dec 8, 2003
83
0
6
Escondido, CA
Jul 20, 2008
#10
  • Jul 20, 2008
  • #10
Thanks everyone for the opinions. My main concern is to get my 95 running so I can drive both of my cars again. I would like the ease of getting a crate, but I want to stay with fuel injection. This might be a dumb question, but can any crate engine (i.e Ford Racing crate 302) be set up with EFI instead of a carb?
 

JJ95GTID

Active Member
Sep 22, 2003
1,141
4
49
Phoenix, AZ
Jul 20, 2008
#11
  • Jul 20, 2008
  • #11
ElCid2006 said:
This might be a dumb question, but can any crate engine (i.e Ford Racing crate 302) be set up with EFI instead of a carb?
Click to expand...


Not a dumb question. If you are looking at the complete crate engines from FRPP they come with a manifold for a carb and other stuff you won't need like the timing cover and waterpump. You take those parts off and put the 94-95 specific parts on from your current engine on the crate engine.

My vote for speed and ease of install is to get yourself a short block from CHP or DSS or FRPP or someplace reputable. Then get one of the two Trickflow kits. Ditch the camshaft that comes with the kit and get a custom one from FTI or Camshaft Innovations. Or, if you don't want to go the custome route choose an OTS (off the shelf) camshaft such as a FRPP F303, Steeda #19, AFM B21 or AFM B31.

Plan on bigger fuel injectors and MAF sensor. Also, going to need a elbow adaptor for the majority of EFI manifolds to use the 94-95 specific throttle body setup.
 

KasperG

New Member
May 20, 2005
38
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0
Jul 20, 2008
#12
  • Jul 20, 2008
  • #12
Rebuild the stock block.
 
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