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New guy here, rebuilding 302, many questions!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Oldschool 5.0
  • Start date Start date Nov 30, 2008
O

Oldschool 5.0

New Member
Nov 30, 2008
3
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0
Nov 30, 2008
#1
  • Nov 30, 2008
  • #1
Hey guys,

I bought an 82 mustang t-top hatch w/ a 4 speed SROD tranny and 302.

When I bought the car I was burning oil, so I drove it awhile and just added some as I went. Then the car overheated on me... so I yanked the engine out and tore it apart. I found out that it had been bored .060 over already w/ notched pistons, had a B303 ford racing cam, full roller motor w/ 1.6 Crane roller rockers, holley street dominator intake w/ a blown intake gasket, edelbrock 600 cfm carb w/ manual choke... timing chain and sprockets looked new, no signs of slap on the timing chain cover, and the heads were 68 mustang 302 heads.

I am going to rebuild it very soon. I was planning on a 331 stroker kit but since it is bored .060 over already that was shot all to hell.

I need to know what you guys think would be a lethal street/strip setup as far as the motor goes. I think I can re-use the block I have, the rebuild seems to have been done fairly recently and there isnt much wear on the cylinder walls. I want to get a forged crank, pistons, rods etc. but I am at a loss when it comes to heads, cam and intake combos. This is the first car I have attempted to rebuild and want to do it right and have a good streetable car that I can take to the strip occasionaly on the weekends and lay down some solid numbers.

Any info would be great. I have added an MSD 6AL ingintion w/ the blaster coil, new alternator and red-top battery, MSD distributor cap, 8mm wires and new plugs.

What kind of pistons should I use? Heads? Cam? Intake? Carb? Like I said I am really a big noob here so I could really use some help. Thanks everyone.
 
3

347HO

Member
Jan 13, 2008
462
2
16
Seattle
Nov 30, 2008
#2
  • Nov 30, 2008
  • #2
IMO that block is done.
I suggest you have it sonic checked if you insist on using it.

A street setup will not like that at all, as ring seal and temp issues may arise.

Im curious what piston p/n, crank and rods are in that engine?????
 
O

Oldschool 5.0

New Member
Nov 30, 2008
3
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0
Nov 30, 2008
#3
  • Nov 30, 2008
  • #3
Not sure and not able to look up the p/n right now because the car isnt here. Its in a family members garage! That is one thing I was worried about was the cylinder wall being too thin to run on the street.

Pretty sure the crank was stock. The pistons were black when I pulled the heads. All I can tell right now is they are .060 over pistons and I can make out what looks like L2462 on my camera phone. Doubt that helps much.
 

dcurtis

10 Year Member
Jan 19, 2006
688
7
39
Nov 30, 2008
#4
  • Nov 30, 2008
  • #4
If you end up running that block(I personally won't run anything over .040 over wont touch .060) you do not need a forged crank, a cast crank will suit you just fine, the block will brake well before the crank. So don't waste money where it isn't needed. I would look into a junkyard block or something, just check the bore on it. The money you save by not buying a forged crank will get you a decent block.
 
3

347HO

Member
Jan 13, 2008
462
2
16
Seattle
Dec 1, 2008
#5
  • Dec 1, 2008
  • #5
dcurtis said:
If you end up running that block(I personally won't run anything over .040 over wont touch .060) you do not need a forged crank, a cast crank will suit you just fine, the block will brake well before the crank. So don't waste money where it isn't needed. I would look into a junkyard block or something, just check the bore on it. The money you save by not buying a forged crank will get you a decent block.
Click to expand...

I'm interested in the rotating assembly as I find it unusual for a 4.060" piston with stock rods and crank???
I've heard of 351 .060" over pistons, but the compression height would need to be worked I would think/assume.
 
O

Oldschool 5.0

New Member
Nov 30, 2008
3
0
0
Dec 1, 2008
#6
  • Dec 1, 2008
  • #6
well I think the crank is stock. I still need to make it up there to look for a part number. I dont know yet about the rods, will check those too.

I think I am about 98% positive I am going to go ahead and try to find a 351W for it.
 

1987stangman

Member
Jul 12, 2006
684
24
19
Dec 1, 2008
#7
  • Dec 1, 2008
  • #7
Heck, that block is done at 60 over. I know that not everyone has a large selection of junk yards in their area but here in Jax I know of 1 yard that has 2 Mark 7's with untouched forged piston 5.0 H.0 motors ripe for the taking not to mention Craigs List's as an option. If I were you and wanted to go stroker I would get a seasoned forged piston 302 short block and build that they way you want it.
 
B

Brian@PAR

New Member
Sep 15, 2008
86
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0
Phoenix AZ
Dec 1, 2008
#8
  • Dec 1, 2008
  • #8
Oldschool 5.0 said:
well I think the crank is stock. I still need to make it up there to look for a part number. I dont know yet about the rods, will check those too.

I think I am about 98% positive I am going to go ahead and try to find a 351W for it.
Click to expand...

Why do a Windsor? You can make 425 N/A no problem with a 306. You're gonna need a new transmission whatever you do and a T5 works beautifully with a big headed 306.
 

dcurtis

10 Year Member
Jan 19, 2006
688
7
39
Dec 1, 2008
#9
  • Dec 1, 2008
  • #9
I want to see a 306 that can make 425 no problem.
 
3

347HO

Member
Jan 13, 2008
462
2
16
Seattle
Dec 2, 2008
#10
  • Dec 2, 2008
  • #10
If Fast88 can put down 650+ and run 9.80 all day long, I don't see why 400 is not attainable by an average "joe".
Why is making 1.3hp per cubic inch beyond your reach?
 
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