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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

New Injectors

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dark_Pony94
  • Start date Start date Sep 20, 2006
D

Dark_Pony94

Member
Sep 20, 2006
36
0
6
Sep 20, 2006
#1
  • Sep 20, 2006
  • #1
Hi guys I'm new here. I just bought a 1994 Mustang GT with quite a bit done to it. Now I'm not great at motor work by any means. Heres my problem. I changed my injectors to 24# and put in a GMS 75MM MAF. No big deal right? Well my car now runs rough as hell and occassional stalls. I then changed the MAF back to the stock one and the car ran great, had alot more pull than with the 19s but the CEL comes on. I'm assuming its from the O2 sensors. I have since changed everything back to stock since I dont konw if its ok to run 24# injectors and a MAF that isnt calibrated for them. My big question is why would the car run alot better with the stock MAF than with the new one? Do I need to add anything else? I tried adjusting the TB but that didnt seem to help any.

Mods: GT-40Y heads, GT-40 upper and lowers, SVO elbow, FRPP 65mm TB, E303 cam, FRPP Shorties, O/R H pipe, Borla Exhaust, 3.73 gears, Under driven pulleys I believe thats all on the motor

Please any help is greatly appreciated I want to get this up and running before I have to put it away for the winter Thanks guys.
 

JChalfan

Member
Nov 27, 2002
551
0
16
Bellevue, WA
Sep 20, 2006
#2
  • Sep 20, 2006
  • #2
You shouldn't run the 24lb injectors with the stock 19lb MAF. It won't damage anything, but it will run too rich.

Do you know anyone with a 24lb calibrated MAF that you could try to check if your GMS one is faulty? Did you buy the MAF new? Are you certain it is calibrated for 24lb injectors?

Did you reset your computer when you swapped injectors and MAF? That's pretty important...

Jeff
 

vristang

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2005
4,933
101
124
Seattle
Sep 20, 2006
#3
  • Sep 20, 2006
  • #3
^^^
Very well stated, my fellow Washingtonian.

clear the computer memory by disconnecting the computer for ~15min.

Confirming the calibration of the meter is the first thing to do however.

jason
 
D

Dark_Pony94

Member
Sep 20, 2006
36
0
6
Sep 20, 2006
#4
  • Sep 20, 2006
  • #4
Everything was bought new from Summit Racing. I disconnected the battery negative first then positive for about an hour. I have a feeling that its the MAF I have a friend with a C&L but have to see if he'll let me take it off his car. The GMS is calibrated for 24# and is for the 94 95 model. At least thats what the box says. And to clear up any confusion this is GMS new model not the one with the faulty pigtail, I went rounds with them on the phone over it lol
 

JChalfan

Member
Nov 27, 2002
551
0
16
Bellevue, WA
Sep 20, 2006
#5
  • Sep 20, 2006
  • #5
See if your buddy will let you borrow his MAF. Make sure it's calibrated for 24lb's too. Tell him you'll buy him a beer. A MAF swap's not worth a whole sixer, tell him he'll get a 22oz of Olde English.

I'm a big fan of swapping parts to check if they're faulty. You figure it out right away, instead of poking around with a multimeter or something.

Good luck, let is know what you find.

Jeff
 
D

Dark_Pony94

Member
Sep 20, 2006
36
0
6
Sep 23, 2006
#6
  • Sep 23, 2006
  • #6
Ok so my GMS MAF is the faulty piece. We hooked up his Pro-M and it worked just fine. Now I need to take mine back hope they return it and have something else in stock or it looks like I might be looking elsewhere for parts lol. I kinda figured it was the MAF now I'm positive. Also I got the codes pulled and it was 157. MAF not getting enough power or something like that.
 

nonglossjason

I did not have intercourse with a sheep.
Jan 27, 2006
138
20
39
Sep 23, 2006
#7
  • Sep 23, 2006
  • #7
glad you got it fixed
 
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