Okay, first off what a f'n clean Coupe!!! I am a little biased as you will see below.
Just me but you might want to look at the H&R Super Sport springs and some Bilsteins vs the other springs and dampers you mentioned. I ran the Super Sports and Tokico Illumina's on my 93 Coupe for about 8 years and it was amazing on handling and rode very well. It was my daily driver like this for about 5 years then I was lucky to change jobs and get a company car. This is what it looked like with that setup back in 2002.
I would go with the MM subframe connectors of the two you mentioned however I run Global West subframe connectors on both my cars. Reason is they install to the outside of the front subframe which keeps the ground clearance. I also run the Griggs Racing upper subframes but they are by no means necessary.
Why do you want to run the 31 spline axles? I have 28 spline Mosers with a 331 that makes 370ish rwhp on Nitto drag radials and have zero issues. Only mention this as you will need to get a 31 spline carrier as well so it can get expensive for what you are gaining and may not need.
I would also so a basic tune up on it if that has not already been done (plugs, cap rotor, plug wires, fuel filter, etc.) You would be amazed how people don't change a fuel filter until the car won't run.
Okay, first off what a f'n clean Coupe!!! I am a little biased as you will see below.
Just me but you might want to look at the H&R Super Sport springs and some Bilsteins vs the other springs and dampers you mentioned. I ran the Super Sports and Tokico Illumina's on my 93 Coupe for about 8 years and it was amazing on handling and rode very well. It was my daily driver like this for about 5 years then I was lucky to change jobs and get a company car. This is what it looked like with that setup back in 2002.
I would go with the MM subframe connectors of the two you mentioned however I run Global West subframe connectors on both my cars. Reason is they install to the outside of the front subframe which keeps the ground clearance. I also run the Griggs Racing upper subframes but they are by no means necessary.
Why do you want to run the 31 spline axles? I have 28 spline Mosers with a 331 that makes 370ish rwhp on Nitto drag radials and have zero issues. Only mention this as you will need to get a 31 spline carrier as well so it can get expensive for what you are gaining and may not need.
I would also so a basic tune up on it if that has not already been done (plugs, cap rotor, plug wires, fuel filter, etc.) You would be amazed how people don't change a fuel filter until the car won't run.
This is exactly why I joined, to get good firsthand advice. Yes, you are a little biased, lol. Your car looks great btw! With regards to the 31 spline axles, this was my thinking. Since the car is 36 yrs old and I'm doing a gear swap, it would be a good time to throw new seals in the housing. LMR has an axle kit that has the R&P, shim pak, seals, bearings, axle shafts and diff. and you can choose your spline count with minimal cost between the 28 and 31. Probably overkill for my rwhp goal but, the upcharge for the 31-spline seemed like good insurance. And yes, I'll get those wires and plugs changed, they have the 90's date code on them lol...
I'm going to learn and navigate my way on this site, as I have more questions on suspension and stroker engines and was thinking the welcome wagon wasn't the correct place for that discussion?
Again, Thank you...
Just start a build or progress thread on the 79-95 forums. Remember that you can change the title of the thread as things progress. This allows us to keep from making multiple threads so all the info is in one spot. Also, take some time to create a signature so that when you post your car info is in there so we don’t have to ask.
Only other thing I will suggest is to pull codes. Even if the check engine light is not illuminated there can be codes present.
@Noobz347 - The code dump procedure isn't in the sticky - you may want to add it...
Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.
Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs
Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.
Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.
Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for...