New Project Day #4

[Adam95GT]

I used Stock exterior E9...it took about 8 oz. The primer was auto primer with hardener additive. The main thing is that the less bondo you can use the better.

1. Make sure bare metal is covered IMMEDIATELY with self-etching primer.
2. Any surface that bondo is going to be applied to needs to be scractech up first for adhesion. DOnt put new bond on old bondo or on primer without rough sanding it first.

3. sand everything really well. You will need to sand after priming. After your gray primer is on, lightly spray eveything with black spray...as shown in the one photo before paint. What that does is allows you to see where you missed sanding the pimer...You should use a soft 2x3" cardboard folded to about 1/2" thick.. Wrap your sandpaper around that for even sanding. Start with 220 then stop at 320. Use the beige stuff, not the wet/dry black stuff.. If you start to expose metal, cover it with more etching primer. Before paint , the primed surface should fee like glass.

Let me know if you need any other info...since you saved me from a BIG REDO!!

RC

God i love the people on here... Thanks Again RC!@ Yea Im kinda sorry we started this whole thing... all this work for a crappy little 306.... i just like to learn things... learning to weld... even badly was just a great expirence for me... I love people who do their own work.... Thanks man!

 

[94GTLaserRC]

God i love the people on here... Thanks Again RC!@ Yea Im kinda sorry we started this whole thing... all this work for a crappy little 306.... i just like to learn things... learning to weld... even badly was just a great expirence for me... I love people who do their own work.... Thanks man!

Well you saved me a BIG PROJECT DO-OVER.

BTW...I forgot For the gaps and joints where vibrations may cause bondo to crack, you need to use a seam sealer. My painter brough his in a caulk gun already so I dont have a brand, but if you ask an auto paint store they will help you with that. My painter put that on AFTER bondo and sanding, RIGHT before the paint..It's like caulk but made to be applied to auto body joints and seams.


Get us some pics and more details and I can see what more I can do to help out.
Thanks
RC

 

[Adam95GT]

Well you saved me a BIG PROJECT DO-OVER.

BTW...I forgot For the gaps and joints where vibrations may cause bondo to crack, you need to use a seam sealer. My painter brough his in a caulk gun already so I dont have a brand, but if you ask an auto paint store they will help you with that. My painter put that on AFTER bondo and sanding, RIGHT before the paint..It's like caulk but made to be applied to auto body joints and seams.


Get us some pics and more details and I can see what more I can do to help out.
Thanks
RC

Yea where you spot welded and seemed with bondo... i ran spots to tack it in to place then ran a bead of weld on the whole top and bottom... the gap is by the strut tower... i had grinded down the sheet metal to make a perfect fit... and when i was holding it for chris to put down the first welds it must of shifted over a tad.... we tried to pop the welds off but it just benta small corner of the sheet metal rather then make it worse we bent it back and finished welding it in place and figured we'd just fix the bend with a small amount of bondo.... ill be sure to take my camera when i go to work on the car this sunday... i might take a ride up b4 that but its a 45 minute drive to his wife's moms house. where my car is being stored lol

 

[Adam95GT]

"..." i only need one.

 

[94GTLaserRC]

Just keep us updated.
RC