I'd keep the beehive springs with a stage II blower cam if i went the TVS route. I think I should be fine as long as I stay under 7krpms
I'd keep the beehive springs with a stage II blower cam if i went the TVS route. I think I should be fine as long as I stay under 7krpmsAre you planning on running those beehive valve springs. You might want to get some better ones if those aren't the larger of the 2 that Comp cams makes. Some blower cams with a 114 lsa would be a complement.
Nice find on the parts. I'm going with the Trick Flow heads with the 38cc CC and maybe an edelbrock intake to top it off.
Stage II blower cams are as mild as it gets, similar to my stage 1's just tailored to boost and help PD blowers a lot. But i will be peaking some high boost numbers a few times in this process, so i'll consider it.With alot of boost, valve float might be a problem. I've always been under the impression that the comp beehive springs weren't that strong. I found out not long ago that comp makes 2 different springs. Most people recommend the larger ones for big boost or big cams.
Just curious, why is that?Man, I know it's a little late but this just popped into my mind...
Store that crank upright, and not laying down!!! I'm sure you know that and just took the pics with it laying down, but just in case...
Yeah, my crank is at MMR - so I assume that's what they are doing. I have a crank right now though that I'm selling, but it wont stand on the flywheel bolt end. It teeters over, she's pretty though:Man, I know it's a little late but this just popped into my mind...
Store that crank upright, and not laying down!!! I'm sure you know that and just took the pics with it laying down, but just in case...
Compensate? You'd better mean compliment!Very Nice Man!!!! This will compensate that nice 4R70W Well!
Yeah, I wait for deals and build slow. Will do the forced induction part the same way. I've saved over $1700 doing it my way over buying all the parts together as a shortblock including high volume oil pump and arp mainstuds ect.J
Also, Cobra red that looks great! You have way more patience then meI wouldnt be so patient and would HAVE TO HAVE IT NOW!!
Just curious, why is that?
Yeah, my crank is at MMR - so I assume that's what they are doing. I have a crank right now though that I'm selling, but it wont stand on the flywheel bolt end. It teeters over, she's pretty though:
I have it upright leaning against a boxThe way I understand it is, with the crank laying on it's side, the counterweights over time could potentially cause the crank to bend or bow. Sitting upright the weights aren't sagging on it like that.
When the crank is in the motor of course it is supported by the main caps.
Yep, I am sure its in great hands...
Bought today:
Speed Pro main bearings:
And ARP Mainstuds:
So then sitting upright wouldnt it put greater force on the lower lobes and cause more of a chance of bending the end of the crank its sitting on?The way I understand it is, with the crank laying on it's side, the counterweights over time could potentially cause the crank to bend or bow. Sitting upright the weights aren't sagging on it like that.
When the crank is in the motor of course it is supported by the main caps.
Yep, I am sure its in great hands...
So then sitting upright wouldnt it put greater force on the lower lobes and cause more of a chance of bending the end of the crank its sitting on?
If you look at the last lobe all the weight would be pushing on it and close the gap for the end two cylinders, no?
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